REAR SHOCK SPRING COMPRESSOR

[xbally]

This is not directly related to thumpers but is relevant to all twin shock bikes.I am still trying to resolve my VT 500 woes with the DVLA(see separate post some time ago) but meanwhile i have to replace the rear shocks due to the failure of the oil seals as the bike will need to be MOT'd again.Whenever i have to replace twin shocks on any of my bikes i struggle to get the new ones fitted.I am therefore looking for a decent compressor-not the type to remove the spring-the type to compress the spring just enough to bolt the new units back on to the frame.There seem to be a few around and i was wondering whether anyone has any recommendation please.

[Dick Scratcher]

PM me with your Phone number and I'll tell you how to do it easy and for free................Dave.

[xbally]

Cheers Dave-pm sent.....

[SteveC#222]

[Dick Scratcher]

That looks good !.

[johnr]

ive seen them compressed with heavy duty zip ties!

[xbally]

Thanks guys'.Dave got your helpful messages thanks.Am going through the You Tube clips as well.I've tried cable ties but mine aren't man enough for the job.I have a plan now thanks to you all.............

[iansoady]

I may have misunderstood but if you're replacing the whole suspension unit I can't see why you need to compress the spring. They're usually the same length both sides - if you take them both off (with the bike on centre stand / box etc) the back wheel will drop allowing easy fitment.

You're not trying to do it with the weight of the bike on the back wheel are you?

Ignore this if I've missed the point...

[xbally]

Thanks Ian.No you haven't missed the point.I don't know why but once -long ago-when i was attempting to replace both shocks on a twin shock bike (i think it was a Kawasaki 250 or 400 triple),when i removed the second of the shocks,after having removed the first ,the back end collapsed-fortunately without any damage or injury.Ever since then i have been very wary of removing both shocks at the same time!I think this has got to be the way to go.So far iv'e tried both doing it on the centre stand and jacked up off the ecentre satnd and with one shock still on i can't quite get the 2 mounts level to put the fixings in.It's not helped by the poor access to the lower mounting points due to the silencers being in the way.I'm reluctant to take off the exhaust as it's very corroded and i'm envisaging stripped threads and fasteners which shear off.Both the old and new shocks are the same length but obviously the old ones will have wear in them as well as the lack of damping oil.

[iansoady]

With anything like this I usually show the bolts the way through with (ideally) a tapered pin punch or the like, or (less than ideally) a rod substantially smaller than the bolts. This gives you wiggle room to get everything lined up and all the bolts in loosely before you start tightening things up.

I find it particularly useful for fitting rear wheels which I find increasingly difficult due to their weight and especially on trail-type machines the excessive width of the silencers. It lets you get all the spacers etc in position without the added difficulty of persuading a tight-fitting spindle in.

[richardeblack]

Thanks guys'.Dave got your helpful messages thanks.Am going through the You Tube clips as well.I've tried cable ties but mine aren't man enough for the job.I have a plan now thanks to you all.............

Hello chaps
I made mine out of an old mastic gun. Looks horrible but works really well. Strip spring off in a couple of minutes.
I will post pics and video over weekend.

[timbo]

I've never come across this problem before  I usually just take the back wheel out, so the shocks are only supporting the weight of the swinging arm.

[iansoady]

That's kind of what I said......

[timbo]

Absolutely Ian. Just while I'm on here, there seems to be plenty of comment and interest on your RC articles on the Sunbeam 

[iansoady]

Yes, I like to provoke interest!

I've just sent off a reply to Rowena so hopefully it will be in the next issue.

It's in bits again as I needed to sort out the clutch once and for all, but also wanted to look at why it was tightening up. I suspected the lubrication system but have come to the conclusion that it had been rebored as if it was a modern liquid cooled engine - ie with only about .005" piston / bore clearance. Radco et al suggest around .003" per inch of bore so should be nearer .009".

I've taken the barrel & piston off to my local old school engine reconditioner to have a few more thou honed out.