Clutch adjustment on the RE Bullet

[Steffan]

I fitted the a new set of clutch plates and so thought it wise to double check the clutch adjustment.
What bothers me is that the adjuster screw is slightly proud of the casing although I doubt it would damage the gasket and when I pull the clutch in it pulls it inwards not outwards. Anyway here is what I have done and any help or advice would me most appreciated.

1. I backed off the cable at both ends
2. I loosened the locknut on the adjuster
3. I backed off the adjuster thread two turns or so - until things
loosened up.
4. I then screwed in the adjuster thread until it started to tighten up.
5. I noted that as I screwed the adjuster in the clutch basket was
pulled in ever so slightly but once the adjuster started to tighten
this stopped.
6. I repeated 3-5 and stopped screwing the adjuster in when the basket
stopped moving.
7. I then tightened the locking nut: the adjuster is proud of the
casing by 1mm or the width of a steel rule and the cover will go back
without ruining the gasket.
8. This leaves the adjuster no where near as tight as it was when I
started.
9. I took up the slack on the cable and the clutch "lifts" ie the plate
compresses the springs when I pull the lever, the action of which feels
smoother and lighter than before.

Steffan

[bullet350]

i theory with new plates the adjuster should be further in than before. do you have a gasket on the little inspection cover on the gearbox end of things? mine just has a piece of stamped tin to keep the crud out.

i was going to spend today fitting a new clutch push rod and adjuster/locknut, so i 'll let you know how it goes.
at the moment the clutch drags massively, then slips at higher revs- its quite amazng that it can manage both!

350 bullet.

[Steffan]

Yes I have a nice green gasket on the inspection cover. I also fitted a new clutch pad with bearing ala' HMC. I guess at the end of the day I can adjust it with everything else in place?

Steffan

[bullet350]

just finished the job,
 
the thing i noticed that could cause problems is the old adjuster (screw & locknut) had the ball bearing situated inside the bolt, recessed 1/4" (about 4mm to jap riders).

the new adjuster has the bearing on the very end of the bolt, meaning for the same adjustment the bolt would be 1/4" further out, causing your problem.

my original adjuster was wound right in (and still dragging), but the new one with the new clutch push rod (1/4" longer than the old one) sits two thirds of the way out of the lever. it does just about clear the cover.

the new clutch plates will probably wear quickly until they settle down, at which point you'll possibly need to wind the adjuster in a touch, hopefully clearing the cover. if it doesn't sort itself out i'd take a bit off the push rod and re-harden the end.


a productive hour in the garage as i also managed to trace the misfire the bullet had.

it'd start and keep trying to cut out, getting slightly better when the engine was warm, whilst spitting back through the carb. it was down on power (inappropriate use of the word 'power' i know), and when riding it would regularly give a little cough out of the carb.

drained the carb, filled with new petrol and problem solved. the petrol only had a minimal ammount of water in it, but it was enough to upset the bullet. that'll be the high 6 1/2 to 1 compression ratio, might fit half a dozen head gaskets to get it down a bit....

350bullet.

[Steffan]

now I am really confused. While you were doing that I stripped the clutch again and found that the cirlip (if you can call it that) was not seated properly (due primarily to the fact there is virtually no where for it to seat) Nevertheless I took it out put it back and double checked the centre nut and all is well on that front. I then rechecked the adjuster thread and still if I set it where it ought to be just on or over what feels like 0 tolerance it is proud of the casing by no more than a 1mm or so. As for this ball bearing I have not seen one at all.

I note in the parts book the gasket is around the edges of the cover not like mine which cover the entire surface of it.

I replace the pad (pushrod?) in the clutch with a new one which has a bearing but I cannot see that that would effect anything as it was as I recall the same over all length.

Thanks for the reassurance

Steffan

[bullet350]

the adjuster at the right hand side of the bike has a little bearing inside it.
have a look at the hitchcocks website. the online parts book has the exploded diagrams of the clutch (in the primary) and the adjuster (in the gearbox). if you have the pad that pushes the clutch with the bearings in it, then you don't need the ball bearing, i think. enfields, lovely and simple, apparently.

350bullet

[Steffan]

I see what you mean. In my case I wasn't in that deep. I replaced the pad at the other end and the plates. I am going to run with mine as is once I fit the new chain tensioner. All I can think of is that it will bed in in time, also the service cover is not flat  under the gasket which suggests that the there is room for the adjuster to be a bit proud without fouling. Everyone I speak to cannot recall or never noticed before so I think it is probably a case of me being fussy and worrying unnecessarily. Of course the Stalwart may say otherwise...

Steffan

[002]

Steffan has got the poncy left foot change 5 speed box ! And Electric Start !

I have no experiance of these new fangled things ;-)

Now the old 4 speed right foot change thats the one I know.

Jethro

[Steffan]

Doesn't your beemer have a left foot change and electric start and all you MZs had left foot change too I'll wager, nothing ponsy about that...I shall go away and sort it out for myself then...hmphhh!!

[bullet350]

mines the old 4 speed, with the gears on the corrrect side (the right),
meaning most of what i was telling you was crap.

i've got to admit i was quite impressed by the electric boot on the enfields.
when i first saw one i was expecting a kind of grinding and crunching noise as it chewed itself to pieces.
turnded out it made a little 'whurr' and the bike started. no sparks, smoke or anything!

350bullet.

[Steffan]

Very nice at lights if it stalls, no great starting routine, pull the clutch and hit the button. The rest of the time it doesn't see the light of day. Personally I am used to Euro/Jap/Yank/New UK/ rest of world levers but I accept that some others no matter how perverse may have a point. So long as you don't start singing the virtues of thousands of an inch or Witworth ANF, ANC and all manner of silly threading nonsense - make mine mm.

Bike is back and everything is working nicely the upgrade certainly improves the clutch although I don't advise starting the bike with the primary cover off as the sight of he clutch doing its thing is not confidence inspiring to say the least.

Thanks for the help, no matte how much bollocks some of it may have proved. We can discuss that over a few at Dent: you are coming ?

Steffan

[002]

Must admit on the odd occasion mine stalls.......find neutral,ease over TDC and a bit more then kick.......nothing and again.....Yes 'tis bit of a pain.
But there good fun when a cocky git comes along and says "I can start that,itssneazy !"
And let them have a go  ;-)

Remind Pat about the clutch technique on the MZ Kick Starter.....made me chuckle !

Jethro

[Steffan]

Took the bullet out last night and had to turn back as the clutch became very slippery so I backed out the adjuster this morning and thing are looking improved. Took her for going on 10 miles up and about mostly up where I could manage it and there is no discernable slip so hopefully she is a goer for the trip to the pre-65 Trial tomorrow