Aye Manxie,
Appears to be a Sebring 350 narrowcase, could be one of the Hannah shipment that came into Liverpool from America.
Bars, seat and mudguard are not 'original' if that worries you!
Looks nice and tidy though and not over restored.
Motor appears to have good compression and so it should have on a newly rebuilt motor, but I'm not sure why Derek doesn't use the decompression lever under the left handlebar below the clutch lever, unless he hasn't sorted out the cable or the decompression lever is missing from the front rocker cover.
"New piston, rings, re-bore, bigger con rod for strength." There is probably £800 GBP of bits there + the rebore. Has it had a new big-end and if so what sort and who fitted it? Not cheap if done properly ~£250 -£350.
" New wheels, spokes, tyres, chain, sprockets....." Another £600 of bits.
" Frame was blasted, coated and resprayed." Further £200 - £300 at least.
" electronic timing." Worth it's weight in gold on a Duke and hopefully indicates a new alternator, 12v lights, new wiring and connections, so another £400 there.
Then there is the time spent and cost of the machine to rebuild!
On UK Fleabay probably start at £3,500 and climb, check out Fleabay, but server appears to have gone AWOL at time of writing.
Excellent bit of kit on the Island, I had my 450 over when working in the mid seventies on the Island. 6v electrics were the bane of my life and the alternator rotor went loose on the end of the crank wrecking the taper. However, being the Island, the expertise is available and the crank was metal sprayed and the taper re-machined. Stellite re-inforcement on some parts of the gearbox internals and the gear dogs undercut to make engagement more positive. Setting up the gear selector in the external cover on the right hand side takes time and everything thing needs to be spot on, clean and well lubed. Change the oil after 20 miles, again after 200 miles and then every 1,000 miles, first 3 changes use a good quality 20-50W or straight 40W non-synthetic oil to allow all the bits to 'run-in'. After that straight 40W non-synthetic oil or something like 'Mobil 1' multigrade. Roller big end likes plenty of oil. Always warm the motor through thoroughly afore reving and
do not expect to 'plonk' the motor in high gear these things like to rev and with the right cam etc in place will go to 9,000rpm without batting an eyelid once run in. Probably last longer if you keep to 8,000 - 8,500rpm.
Manuals, the Clymer, is the one for this model, but beware, few of these motors are standard now. The Haynes will get you by, but there are important differences between the narrow and widecase models.
Enough of me, do your own research and if you do buy it, you'll have a grin on your mug down those lanes
My regards, Bill
