Oil distrubution

[guest1350]

I finally found some time to do some work on my SRX400

I took the cover off the clutch side to look if the return spring was working due to the issues I was having getting the gear lever to return. It all looks ok, spring is in place and seem seems to be free moving. Perhaps the issue is with the gears themselves.

But the other thing was that the gears around the clutch looked dry, they looked very clean with out a noticeable film of oil. There is oil at the bottom but top gears look dry.

I can see I need a new oil filter which I will attempt to purchase today.

So should the gears look oiled or did it all just drain off.

[themoudie]

Aye Tim,

Drain off, probably. Filters are usually available off the shelf at Halfrauds as is there motorcycle semi-synthetic 10/40.

Hope you get the beastie sorted.

My regards, Bill.

[Steve H]

On the topic of gear levers sticking is it worse when you change down or when you change up ?

[guest1350]

I'm chuffed to say that I sorted the gear issue!!!!!

I tightened up the crank cover at the bottom and the the gear went stiff again. Took the cover and a close look showed that a part of the casting was pressing against the gear change mec. So I ground a mil off and put it back together. ta dat it works nice and smooth!

Thanks for the tip on oil filter I will drop in tomorrow and get one. I have some oil.

Of the 3 things I'm trying to solve I have 2 resolved

1 Stiff gear Done
2 Bad starting, this was the choke, I replaced the rubber in the choke plunger with a bit of neoprene rubber I had from a diaphragm valve. It turns out it does not like petrol and swelled up. Still have to find some rubber not effected by the petrol though.

Not yet resolved is it running out of petrol in the float chamber, so dies on a run.
I have set the float hight to 28mm. Then with the carb off I filled the flat chamber and did the final adjustment test. It was around 15mm which is to large. Should have been 7mm but was coming out at 18mm. It says you do it fitted in the bike and warm, But then says remove to adjust, I cannot face that. I cannot see how I can get a float hight of 28mm and a level hight of 7mm in use. So I will set the level to 7mm and make that my priority.

Thanks for the feed back

[themoudie]

Aye Tim,

Make sure that the fuel overflow pipe at the rear of the petrol tank to the end beneath the pivot end of the swinging arm, is clear. Then check that the internal pipe within the petrol tank is clear by blowing through the hole situated on the left-hand side of the filler hole, beneath the fuel cap. This can be blocked with allsorts, including spiders and rust! Once cleared, dribble some light oil/ACF50/WD40 through the pipe and then give it another blow through, so that the rusting doesn't continue.

Also check that the filter gauzes over both petrol taps are clean and after reassembling, stick another filter in the supply pipe between the second tap and the carb. One of those cheap clear plastic jobs is fine, with these you can also see the fuel level rise and fall.

As for your fuel levels in the bowl and float, I can't help as I am fortunate not to have needed to do this on 'Sally'!

My regards, Bill.

[guest1350]

The first time I had this problem while out on a run I wedged a bit of wire under the cap as I thought itwas a vacuum issue. The it did not fix it. The then I found the fuel line blocked and thought that was it. The now I'm sure it's the car.


Ta

[johnr]

does it have a 'prime' setting on the fuel tap? if the vacuum operation on the tap isnt working right it might starve the motor of fuel on a run, of course this may be something as simple as a split in the vacuum pipe to the tap!!
if you have had rust in your fuel, then put an inline filter in the petrol pipe. this itself wont stop rust particles as they are so fine they pass straight through the filter. however if you araldite one of these high power magnets(forgive my spelling but they are something like neobdnium) to the side of the filter, the magnet will hold the particles to the inside of the filter and also if you fit a clear fuel filter, you will be able to see the rust if it is there i fit one to all my bikes now (except the bmw-ally tank so no rust thankfully!!).

[johnr]

when you say your fuel line was blocked, how and with what? have you drained and flushed out the fuel tank at all? cos if theres rust in there and youve not cleaned and sealed it, then you are going to have this again and again till you do a permanent solution.

[guest1350]

Hi,

The vacuum valve works at least when I test it. But even on prime I got the same thing. Yes the tank is rust on the inside I can hear it in there. I have 2 filters one on each line and I will glue some magnets to the filters, I have loads sticking around all over the place, great idea . The filters were not there before so I hope it will improve things.

Flushing out the tank will be fun as the the petrol seems to lift the paint near the filler cap . But I will do it.

The blockage in the carb was on a jet that takes petrol to the enricher for the choke. The issue seems to be that the bike must have been sitting around for years so it got gunged up.

I also decided once I was getting to know my way around the carp to look at the coasting enricher. If I coast it cuts out some times, just what I want at the lights! I found that the brass plunger was seized in. It was so stick I had to drill and tap a 4mm screw in to enable me to leaver it out. I made a new one with the sizing I could get from the left overs. But I could not prove it works now. The set up makes it very difficult to tell.

The plumbing is such that when running normally the plunger is pushed in and path way is made from one inlet to another hole on the inlet. It also runs down to the float chamber. When coasting you get a big vacuum on the secondary carb inlet that should pull the diaphragm and spring back that lets the plunger close the path.

So it seems that when coasting less petrol gets through, which to me is counter intuitive as my is is the bike cutting out on coasting. I tried testing it by sucking on the pipe and squirting IPA through the orifice. No matter what I did the IPA got through which makes me think the valve is not working. I took it apart and checked its operation many times but as I cannot test the diaphragm with out clamping it up I do not know what is happening. I may have to order a new kit.

Any way just have to put the lot back on the bike and give it a test..

[johnr]

right, you need to address the rust in your tank. magnets are ok, but they are not a solution. theyre ok to prevent probs in a treated tank, but if you can see/hear rust in the tank, then you need to address this problem NOW! i guarantee that if its going to fail and leak, it will do it xmas eve, new years day, or half an hour before you set off on an important trip. you know the score. ok, if you cant source another tank, then get your tank off, drain the fuel, and get the loose rust swilled out. (boiling water and fairy liquid is a start, but do it outside and dont smoke when you do it) after you have drained the crap( amagnet on a piece of bamboo swirled inside picks the big bits out ok) you need to dislodge the rust in there. some folk say a handful of gravel or nuts and bolts shaken round inside the tank, i use a length of chain with nuts and bolts through the links and shaken vigorously, works the same as the others, but is easy to get out afterwards. once the loose stuff is out, you need to try and remove as much as possible that hasnt been knocked off by the shaking. im not going to go into details, but try googling 'electrolytic rust removal' you need an old type battery charger but it will remove most rust from inside tanks. leave it like this till its clear, and then get a fuel tank sealant. you need to make sure that the sealant can cope with e10 petrol, the ethanol in modern fuel can dissolve fuel tank liners if they arent made to cope with it.
i know this is a faff, but until you sort out the problem in your fuel tank you will never be free of fuel and carb problems, cleaning the carb and the magnets will only put off having to do this for a few weeks at best. but a few days should permanently sort this.

[guest1350]

Ok Thanks for the warning, much appreciated! I will clean the tank apply rust converter and sealant before it goes back on the tank.

[Ian]

Dont forget Tim, we want to see it on the club stand at Stafford!!!!