Author Topic: Conundrum - well for me anyway  (Read 1771 times)

squirrelciv

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Re: Conundrum - well for me anyway
« Reply #15 on: March 20, 2007, 07:33:50 AM »
Really simplistic, but why not have a detachable toe piece for the gear lever? If it had a nice spring clip arrangement you could whip it off, kick the bike over, then click it back into place.
Live long, live well, live happy

MrFluffy

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Re: Conundrum - well for me anyway
« Reply #16 on: March 20, 2007, 01:15:30 PM »
You could fork the end of the gearchange rod instead of terminating it with a rod end, and have a hole on the stub that stays on the engine, then pull out a pin on the fork thats held indented by a spring to release the fork from the stub, do the business with a doglegged kickstart to miss the levers and then pull the pin again and slip the fork back in place. I bet you could be quite fluid with doing that, fluid enough to get you out the crap when it stalls at the lights and you have nowhere to bump it...
With time the pin would wear, but you could always push in a small liner of nylon bush into the engine stub side to form a bearing.
For pin design, it would just need to be a simple bayonette mechanism, so it could have a out position you could lock it in if needs be too. I can probally dig out what I mean, theyre common on rotatry table indexers, and if they can hold a workpiece indexed while its being milled, they can keep a gearchange linkage pin in place.
Also if the gear lever itself tended to foul the kickstart in its current position, theres always the side effect that it probally will swing down when free of the motor side of the linkage giving you more room, and you still would have your rod length adjustment at the other end, since you'd be free to rotate the rod to adjust once the fork is free.





 

guest27

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Re: Conundrum - well for me anyway
« Reply #17 on: March 23, 2007, 09:49:30 AM »
Thanks guys - loads of good ideas there need to look at them closer up on the bike.

Now another question - I need to bend the kickstart lever to get it to clear the frame etc.  I am guessing that being as it is cast it will be steel not iron, and that if I heat it to cherry red I should be able to bend it to shape (and burn my fingers doh!).  Will I then need to anneal it or anything - cherry red and air cool?

Again any thoughts would be helpful.  I would tend to go for the heat and bend, anneal option.

R

MrFluffy

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Re: Conundrum - well for me anyway
« Reply #18 on: March 24, 2007, 02:36:25 PM »
Just like you say, dull to cherry red heat, bend it to shape while it still is red, and then let it aircool slowly to keep the stresses down in the metal structure, if you want hard and brittle quench it in a bucket of water or oil or the like. Ive never annealed my kickstart on my sp and I have to build it back up with weld once or twice a year when it wears, and this kickstart is a homemade one after the oem one got tired of being repaired, its some funny steel chrome alloy rather than straight steel though but that doesnt seem to matter. You will destroy any finish or chrome on it, so its black paint time or rechrome afterwards, and youll of course need to regrease all the moving bits too. Welders gloves and a big vice come in handy but dont hold on too long as youll get burnt inside the gloves after a couple of seconds, you want to be doing the bending with something that wont mind getting hot, like a big adjustable spanner or the like or a pipe slipped over the end and position the jaws of the vice to encourage it to bend in the right place.

What might be a idea is to make a test piece of something you can bend to shape a lot easier, like thick wire or the like, and use it to check that nothing unexpected will foul or suprise you with the valve lifter operated or the plug out, before you bend the original one as itll end up being a right shape if you have to take 3 or 4 bites at it getting it right, and youll be able to use the test piece as a bending pattern to get it right first time too.


guest7

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Re: Conundrum - well for me anyway
« Reply #19 on: March 26, 2007, 10:02:55 PM »


This is all being done on a budget of about 50p BTW


R

This probably isn't the time to tell you that your wheel is already being worked on, I misunderstood the brief, I didn't ask for a price and just slapped it in to be done. Having said that the engineer is nearly always astoundingly cheap for the work he does. He was having a grizzle about the three snapped studs today, one came out easily, one snapped the 'ez-out' and the other had to be drilled until only a micron of it remained.

On the plus side, he got the remaining cush drive plates out without having to drill and tap them. This acheives next to no advantage for you, but he seemed pleased with himself :-)

Given that I am transportless for the next couple of days, could you send me the rear wheel spindle in the post? He wants it to centralise the wheel when he machines the sprocket mounts.

And don't worry, it will be cheap enough.

GC

guest27

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Re: Conundrum - well for me anyway
« Reply #20 on: March 26, 2007, 10:37:22 PM »
Not too worried GC - I have 50p for the kick start and a budger of £2.50 for the wheel - things that need to be paid for need to be paid for.  Will sort out the spindle and send it to you - Wont ask Jen to drop it off she will only stress.  Not my fault the studs sheared off when I took it apart - Mr Aprillia did not lube them on the way in. - Mind I would have left them in and turned it down - kerchunk-kerchunk-kerchunk

R