Conundrum - well for me anyway

[guest27]

Asking the more thinking masses out there.   The TZRotax has - by dint of a rotax lump - a coaxial kickstart and gear change.  TO run rearsets - which I have to even for a fairly old man riding position - I have to either move the kickstart or make the gear linkage removable.  Not keen on the QD gearchange as I am not convinced that it would still clear the kicker and also it will probably fall off etc.  So I have been mulling over the idea of a cross shaft for the kicker - thus moving the KS to the right of the bike too.  However I am not too sure about this because of the possible loadings on the shaft and bearings (ahem).  Today I was inspired to look again and it may be easier to move the gearchange to a RHS change and get the kickstart out from behind the frame and past the rear brake.

What have I missed?  The loadings on the gear change are less and I have a good collection of rose joints - mind lil rose ends for a gear change are a lot less than ones that would do for a kickstart.  I have ridden RHS change bikes before and currently do not have a lot on the go anyway.

What thinks you all.

Oh also selling a load of TZR bits on ebay to raise the oney to have the frame welded and the rear wheel machined - sofar I have got £14 coming - so not  a lot of welding then.... bugger


R

[bullet350]

don't know what the left side of a rotax lump looks like, but could the gear change lever loop over the kickstart? this is what's usually done on brit bikes with rearsets where the kicker and shifter are both on the right.

www.oldbritts.com/13_710005.html

350bullet

[guest27]

Good thought but on the Rotax the gearshaft runs up the middle of the kicker shaft, and tyo get the kicker behind the rearsets with a bent kicker would require it being about 2 feet long.

Will have another look mind

R

[J Hop]

How about a picture of the lefthand side of bike ?

Would it be possible to move the pegs far enough back so the kicker will miss them , with a long linkage for the gearchange with a rosejoint at each end, the front rosejoint instead of being bolted on to the shaft lever, is pushed on a round pin and is held on with a R-clip which faces down (so gravity prevents it from falling off).

When you remove the R-clip the linkage and gearchange lever fall down out of the way ??

[bullet350]

is it just for track use and sunny days? if so how about a decompressor and a bump start, if its good enough for a manx norton....

350bullet

[guest27]

Will try a photo soon - have thougth about bump starting it - we live on a big hill - good if it starts very bad if it does not.

R

[guest27]

Hi - as we can see the kickstart - with the kicker boss on it - is coaxial to the gearchange - nothing on it - and the rearsets are pretty far back anyway.



Will have to bend kickstart if I mount it on this side - rather than via some easy shear linkage.

R

[bullet350]

 some brit trials bikes had kickstarts with a dogleg in them.


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                             I
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when folded out it would clear the gear lever, but you'd need to fold up the foot rest.
like my technical drawing? should be enough for any engineer....

350bullet

[guest27]

yup Dogleg it needs to both clear the frame and the footrest, but does not clear the problem that mid swing it has to pass through the linkage rod.

I am thinking I either need to shift the gear or the kickstart to the other side of the bike via a cross over (under, behind) shaft and a whole bunch of rod ends, or I need a splitable linkage rod, that is quick to dismantle - ie in traffic - and does not have loads of slop in it.  Thinking on the rod and and R clip idea - not sure how to minimise slop - unless the R clip holds the linkage rod into the rod end sleve rather than the rod end through the splined arm on the gear.  Would come apart real easy - then be a bugger to get back?

R

[Steve H]

Rog, not sure if you can visuallize this but. If you look at the picture you sent, take the current position of section the gear linkage that bolts to the gear shaft. Now put a bend in it and extend it backwards and under the engine. Run a linkage bar from this  behind the frame section wher the chanin would normally run, since there isnt a chain on this side there should be room. Take the existing lever, instead of pivoting on the hanger, remove the pivot and drill through the hanger so it can take a shaft, attach the shaft to the gear leaver and a suitable level at the other end and then attach the linkage bar.
Did that make sense ?

[guest27]

That made real sense and I will be looking at the plot soon to see if it will work - sounds like a real nice solution.

R

[guest27]

The more I look the better the idea seems.  It will require a convuluted gear linkage - to give the kick start clearance through a whole swing - but loads easier than cross shafts etc me thinks (which if it was a gear cross shaft I would have to have the smae twisted business end anyway)

Thanks for the idea

R

[Mart]

I don't know if this idea is any good but how about longer levers on both the gear change shaft and the gear lever. Mounted so that the one on the shaft points upwards instead of down. this might make the dog legged kickstart lever complete its swing outside of the gear change linkage. if you can move the one on lever 180 degrees you will even keep the gear changes in the current direction.  good luck Mart.

[GB500nz]

Why not just get a leccy leg for it? Rotaxes (Rotices??) can easily be fitted with same and then there's no problem.

[guest27]

Ahh - leccy boot - thought of it - requires more battery space, and different crank cases, leccy boot itself and the wiring.  There was a set of ES cases for sale on ebay a while back and I enquired of the Rotax man whether this was the answer to my problems, he thought it was just the start of them.  Guess if I was to find a racer who was going to rip the leccy bits of their engine I could just swap mine for theirs?

This is all being done on a budget of about 50p BTW


R