SRX600 oil filter cover screws

[guest1069]

2 tops screws of oil filter cover turning slightly in the threads, not cross threaded but end of bolt threads have case material in. Holding in but will turn if tightened properly. Any ideas for a repair without taking the crankcase cover off? Thanks

[themoudie]

Aye Simon,

Nasty!

These are the two (2) long through bolts, which pass through the outer crankcase cover and thread into the Right Hand (R/H) Crankcase. If I remember correctly, removing the outer crankcase cover is essential when re-threading these holes in the upper R/H crankcase.

I haven't been able to go a pull and old pair of cases out, but I think that the two holes are blind, so that it might be possible to re-drill the holes and helecoil them, with the engine still on the side stand! However, you also stand a very good chance of introducing aluminium swarf into the crankcase/ oil, unless you are able to cover the open crank case during the operation.    You also have a fair chance of drilling eccentric holes with a hand held drill and finding the helecoils are not installing squarely or as deeply in the casting, as the bottom of the hole maybe full of swarf! 

Also how tight are you tightening these set screws? I'm not suggesting they be slack, but tweaking them up with a 1/2" square drive is not necessary. Something like 10ft/lb is plenty, I think.

Proper job is engine out, strip the cases, drill on a pillar drill and helecoil or else fill with weld and re-drill the holes, then tap to original thread size. Cheap and cheerful, which might work due to low stress, would be to fill the holes with Araldite or American 'Monkey' metal, then drill and tap, as before. Then rebuild the motor. Not what you want to hear, I think. 

SteveL, SteveH, Ian650 and Andy230 may have different ideas with this problem on SRX motors and there are plenty others whom may think other action possible. 002 will no doubt have a tried and tested 'Trade' fix. I hope my thoughts don't put you in despair.

My regards, Bill.

[guest1069]

Thanks for the advice Bill. I will have a look at it soon enough and try to find out how deep the threads go.

[Steve H]

An engineer could probably add inserts without the need to strip the whole of the bottom end.

[Steve Lake]

just a thought... are the bolts the original yamaha ones?... as i have found that s/s replacements tend to be a bit shorter if purchased as a kit...

you could also make sure that the hole is clean to its full depth and then try a longer bolt to see how much extra thread there is, and then buy some bolts to match the exact depth (- a turn)

[guest1407]

Did a road side repair last summer.

I assume it´s only for the upper two bolts and not for the third one, which has an extra function.

The thread inside the case is deeper as the bolt. Take an M6 threaded rod and screw it in as far as possible in both holes. Fasten the oil filter cover with normal nuts and cut off the extra length. For good looking you can use two cap nuts, like I did. The lower bolt should be the original one.

It holds  since the repair and I didn´t even use locktite on the inside.  I think I´m gonna leave it like it is.  It looks `original`.

[guest1423]

Hello Simon, the top bolts screw into the crankcase. You have two options, to take the cover off and get the hole helicoiled. This is done by screwing an oversize tap into each hole and then a steel insert is screwed in to bring it back to the right size once this is done it will never strip again. This can be done by any competent engineer, just pack the case with clean rags and blow out the holes to keep metal out of the engine.
  The second option has already been suggested, check the depth of the holes against the length of the bolts, as it would seem that they are not bottoming. You may well have two or three threads left? If so screw in some studding( threaded rod) as suggested, of the right size after blowing out the holes. Try and get them clean and dry of oil. Take the filter out and pack with rag and or mask off the filter housing. Squirt some lighter fluid into the holes and clean out with cotton buds or a thin strip of lint free cloth. This may allow you to locktite in the studding, as it may unscrew instead of the nuts. Finally cut a slot with a junior hacksaw in the end of the studding. This is for when you unscrew the nuts, place a screwdriver in the slot to support the studding against the twist of the nut 

[guest1069]

I will be checking the bolt length and see what thead is left, or the studding option. Will let you know the result. Thanks again

[Ian]

According to the parts list the long M6 bolts are 80m/m long. I have just confirmed this as I happen to have one of said bolts on my desk at work! (sad bu99er!)

HTH

Ian

[themoudie]

Aye Ian,

Below the cap, or overall length?    Even sadder person, who suggested stripping motor, to affect a repair! 

Tip toe through the ... & slip quietly away through the door, whilst collecting gaberdine macintosh.

Bill.

[Ian]

Hello Bill
             Cap head bolt lengths are always UNDER the head, Countersink bolt lengths  are always to the TOP of the bolts

Ian

[themoudie]

Thank you, Ian.

400 been out for a canter again?

Bill. 

[Ian]

Hello Bill,
            I have managed to get out twice on the Monoshock in the evenings this week here in sunny Shropshire  . I do find that the standard gearing from Yamaha (14/41 with a 520 chain) is a wee bit low tho. I used a 15/40/520 with the Hybrid and found this gave a good balance so I will have to experiment.

Apologies to Simon999 for hijacking his thread 

Regards Ian

[Steve H]

I do find that the standard gearing from Yamaha (14/41 with a 520 chain) is a wee bit low tho. I used a 15/40/520 with the Hybrid and found this gave a good balance so I will have to experiment.

I found my 400 mono thrived on revs and since it was a lot smoother than a 600 it wasn't too intrusive.

[guest1069]

Cleaned the screws and holes, screws now holding so can stay like that until the next oil change!  Flew through the MOT today.