Author Topic: royal enfield G-series (1956) no spark?  (Read 6678 times)

gordy2169

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Re: royal enfield G-series (1956) no spark?
« Reply #15 on: March 22, 2011, 11:18:15 PM »
i've took the dynamo off but i will hold fire there then. yes the mag turns you can see the points end spin when turned over. i'm going to try to up load some pics now, there not to much but best i could do with what i have to hand!
« Last Edit: March 22, 2011, 11:58:16 PM by gordy2169 »

gordy2169

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Re: royal enfield G-series (1956) no spark?
« Reply #16 on: March 22, 2011, 11:28:03 PM »
it wont let me up load any pics says the file is to big   >:(

gordy2169

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Re: royal enfield G-series (1956) no spark?
« Reply #17 on: March 25, 2011, 05:27:25 PM »
wooohoooo it lives, well i hav a spark anyway all be a very week one. i took the side case off removed some cogs and put a hand drill too it but still no spark when kicked over???

gordy2169

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Re: royal enfield G-series (1956) no spark?
« Reply #18 on: March 25, 2011, 05:54:16 PM »
nearly there c! checked and cleaned the points spun on the drill a bit more now i have a strong spark on kicking it over! one thing tho i lost my marks on the cog, the points need to be closed at top dead center right?

johnr

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Re: royal enfield G-series (1956) no spark?
« Reply #19 on: March 25, 2011, 09:14:15 PM »
there will be a threaded bolt hole in the head over the piston (as its a sidevalve you cant use the spark plug hole) unfasten the bolt and find a measure to push through this hole, so that it touches the top of the piston as it rises and falls. i use a cable tie. from this you can figure out where tdc is when you are turning the bike over. you need to find tdc on the compression stroke, (as in, with both valves shut) when you find tdc, mark where the cable tie is level with the head,  then turn the engine backwards till the marker (cable tie remember) drops about 3 or 4mm back down the bore, (this is a pretty rough 'get it running guestimate based on my own beesa sidevalve). ok the engine is at this position, so the plug will fire before top dead centre(btdc) so you now need to adjust the mag(and i dont know how yours is adjusted) so that the points are just opening at this point. not fully opening, but just opening. now what i was taught was to use a cigarette paper!! simply open the points and slip a fag paper between them, the points will grip the paper tightly. as you turn the engine over, you will find that at the position where the points are just opening, the fag paper will be loose enough to be able to move it. they need to be opening before tdc to allow the bike to fire whilst the fuel is still compressing. as i say, this is seat of the pants stuff, but it should get you somewhere close. if the points are still shut at tdc chances are it wont run. im sure that somewhere online will be more detailed instructions as to the exact measurement btdc that you need. but this is how ive done it in the past.

you might also try asking on the classic bike forum, its not affiliated to the magazine, but several of the magazines contributors post on it since the official classic bike mag forum shut down.

http://www.classicbikeforum.co.uk/index.php
« Last Edit: March 25, 2011, 09:20:38 PM by johnr »

gordy2169

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Re: royal enfield G-series (1956) no spark?
« Reply #20 on: March 26, 2011, 01:19:04 AM »
i see! very helpful thanks and i do mean thank you for taking the time to help me with this i now know why im so knackard after 3 hours of trying,ive been using a chop stick snapped in half in the plug hole to get tdc (gess theres a bit of my old mans bodgit and scarper in me after all lol) this is very helpful ive tryed finding info online but cant find anything i can use i have a book on ebay that may help if i win it but for now im in the dark ! ill get right back on it tomorrow> taking my bandit for mot in the morn as thats whats paying for the ol gal, and if i dont sell one of them i may need a divorce lawyer!!!! 

gordy2169

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Re: royal enfield G-series (1956) no spark?
« Reply #21 on: March 26, 2011, 01:34:59 AM »
on a personnel note its ironic that this was may dads bike over 20 years ago and if he was still here he'd have had it running the same day i got it (even if it came down to freezin our nuts of in a cold garage till the early hours) but i guess thats why i had to dive head first into it with no idea of what i was getting into lol. where in the uk are you? i think me and the relic might have to pay you a visit once the old gals running again ? (just a far flung idea!)
« Last Edit: March 26, 2011, 02:10:00 AM by gordy2169 »

johnr

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Re: royal enfield G-series (1956) no spark?
« Reply #22 on: March 26, 2011, 02:22:11 PM »
im in the north west, between blackpool and preston, youre welcome to come and visit if you like, theres plenty of lanes hereabout where we could take our old sidevalves out for a pooter around.
as for being able to fix stuff yourself, i guess we as a nation have just got out of the habit of fixing stuff for ourselves. back in the day, you fixed your car because you didnt want to pay the garage and you learned how stuff worked from then. i spent an hour or so the other day adjusting chains and brakes on my kids bikes and fixing a puncture on my daughters. their ages? 20 and 21, and neither of them had a clue how to do anything. i partly blame myself, tey should have been doing this stuff since childhood. my dad was pretty inept at anything practical, so i learned everything i know by doing it myself, i suppose im as guilty as everyone else these days of mollycoddling their kids.

johnr

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Re: royal enfield G-series (1956) no spark?
« Reply #23 on: April 01, 2011, 10:04:06 PM »
come on gordy, im waiting to hear how you went on! any news yet???

gordysback

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Re: royal enfield G-series (1956) no spark?
« Reply #24 on: April 09, 2011, 12:07:49 AM »
hi john sorry mate they stopped me posting or doing anything for that matter! duno why ? thanks again for your help got a good spark as said before and then found the fuel line and tap where gunked up so striped the carb and float chamber got them sparkling and try me best to get the sludge out the tank.
just got to throw it all back together now, the bandit failed the m.o.t so had me hands full with that! hope i can get back to the ol gal next weekend let you know if i dont get band again lol
« Last Edit: April 09, 2011, 12:21:02 AM by gordysback »

johnr

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Re: royal enfield G-series (1956) no spark?
« Reply #25 on: April 09, 2011, 12:23:09 AM »
you know the old trick about putting a load of nuts and bolts through the liks of a small chain(like a sink plug chain) and dropping it in ther tank with some hot soapy water, then wrap it all well in cardboard, old blankets, bubble wrap, whatever you have to hand, and jam the whole lot in the drum of a cement mixer for a few hours, taking it out occasionally to turn it round. alternatively, for rust removal, try googling electrolytic rust remover, you will need some washing soda, some iron bars a battery charger and a few days to wait!!!!

gordysback

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Re: royal enfield G-series (1956) no spark?
« Reply #26 on: April 09, 2011, 01:00:11 AM »
yeah lucky enough i know someone thats doing up an old honda and is hiring a mixer so im guna talk to him nicely  ;) 

johnr

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Re: royal enfield G-series (1956) no spark?
« Reply #27 on: April 09, 2011, 12:46:49 PM »
some folk use gravel and some use loose nuts and bolts, but i prefer to put bolts with nuts on through the links of a chain and drop it in the tank. it does the same job, but when its complete, you only need to hook out one part of the chain and everything else is still attatched to it, rather than spending an hour or two trying to dredge the last nut out.

johnr

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Re: royal enfield G-series (1956) no spark?
« Reply #28 on: May 04, 2011, 04:19:21 PM »
hi gordy, i keep coming back to check your progress on this. any joy in getting it running yet?

guest295

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Re: royal enfield G-series (1956) no spark?
« Reply #29 on: May 05, 2011, 09:43:01 AM »
Once you've got loose rust out of the tank, remove the tap, slosh the inside with phosphoric acid (KillRust, etc), leave it for 15 minutes or so, then wash it out with clean water. Put a vacuum cleaner nozzle in the filler, put the machine on 'blow' and dry it out thoroughly. When it's dry and warm, slosh the inside with penetrating epoxy (West or similar) and discard excess. The acid dissolves alloy and brass, so anything like that has to come out first.