Author Topic: Strange starting fault  (Read 904 times)

guest7

  • Guest
Strange starting fault
« on: February 25, 2011, 12:39:09 PM »
My ER500 (yes it's a bloody twin) is fine and always starts from cold. However, when it's warm or hot it sometimes does an odd thing. You switch it on and all seems fine but not matter how long you spin the starter it won't catch. BUT... if you turn the ignition off and immediately back on again it starts first prod.

I've tried all the other variables (kill switch, sidestand switch. etc.) but this simple procedure (a bloody reboot!) works every time.

What's happening do you think?

GC

johnr

  • Regular
  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 1375
Re: Strange starting fault
« Reply #1 on: February 25, 2011, 06:40:55 PM »
duff ignition switch?

guest7

  • Guest
Re: Strange starting fault
« Reply #2 on: February 25, 2011, 08:08:44 PM »
Well yes, but why would I get power to all the lights, horn and the starter motor, but no spark? That's the bit that confuses me  ::)

GC

Steve H

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 1850
Re: Strange starting fault
« Reply #3 on: February 25, 2011, 08:09:33 PM »
Sticky relay which clears itself when you switch off and on again

guest7

  • Guest
Re: Strange starting fault
« Reply #4 on: February 25, 2011, 08:22:27 PM »
Sticky relay which clear itself when you switch off and on again

Can I hit it with a hammer?



 :D :D :D :D

GC

johnr

  • Regular
  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 1375
Re: Strange starting fault
« Reply #5 on: February 25, 2011, 09:02:46 PM »
cos some bikes have dual circuits on the ignition switch, separating the more fragile electronics of the ignition from the heavier loads of the lighting and charging circuits..

pigafetta

  • Guest
Re: Strange starting fault
« Reply #6 on: February 25, 2011, 10:03:47 PM »
Wouldn't a dodgy ignition switch still be dodgy even when the bike was cold though?

guest7

  • Guest
Re: Strange starting fault
« Reply #7 on: February 26, 2011, 10:22:00 AM »
Wouldn't a dodgy ignition switch still be dodgy even when the bike was cold though?

Yes, that's another thing that puzzles me. But then I am an electronics ignoramus.

Am I feeding the electrical fairies with the right food? If I've offended them (and god knows I can offend anyone) how do I make it up to them? And where exactly on my bike do they live?

GC

johnr

  • Regular
  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 1375
Re: Strange starting fault
« Reply #8 on: February 26, 2011, 01:53:30 PM »
but an intermittent fault is, by its nature intermittent. you say it does it sometimes, so its not like it happens every time. but when it does happen, you fiddle with the switch by turning it off and then on, and it works. i have to say, it sounds like a duff or corroded contact inside the ignition switch. try spraying some electrical contact cleaner into it to clear everything, and then spray it with wd40 or duck oil. remember to also do the bit underneath the barrel where the electrical contacts are, cos they are in a seperate part of the switch to the lock barrel.

SteveC#222

  • Posts: 1900
Re: Strange starting fault
« Reply #9 on: February 26, 2011, 11:15:01 PM »
Wouldn't a dodgy ignition switch still be dodgy even when the bike was cold though?

Yes, that's another thing that puzzles me. But then I am an electronics ignoramus.

Am I feeding the electrical fairies with the right food? If I've offended them (and god knows I can offend anyone) how do I make it up to them? And where exactly on my bike do they live?

GC


Here you go GC, all you need to know ;D

Volt - (From the German) a motorcycle will typically have a 12 volt circuit, meaning, in English, that there are at least 12 'faults' or things wrong with it.  An alternative etymology accepted by some scholars suggests that the spelling should be “vault” because volts are what make you jump when you touch a live wire.

Amp – As any electrician will tell you electrical problems are caused by mischievous spirits called “Amps”, similar to Imps, but smaller.

Ohm's Law  – Simply states that the further you are from Ohm, the more likely it is that a bulb or fuse will blow.

Resistance - A circuit or component may have a high resistance or a low resistance.  This is a measure of how difficult it is to fix.  Sometimes a seemingly minor electrical problem will resist detection or repair for hours, days or even weeks.

Electrolyte – Early motorcycles had gas lanterns.  Later models had primitive battery powered lights originally called Electrolytes.

Rectifier – From the same etymological term as ‘Rector’ this signifies a person of authority and great spiritual or religious power who eventually succeeds in ‘rectifying’ the fault.

Contact – Your friend’s friend who knows a Rectifier.

Charge – A professional Rectifier will always levy a substantial charge.

Relay – Often found on older bikes.  A fault is detected and temporarily cured. The bike is then sold.  The new owner discovers the fault, carries out temporary repairs and hands the bike on to a new owner who repeats the process.  This is known as an ‘Electrical Relay’.  If the bike goes all the way round the club and returns to one of the previous owners, this is known as an ‘Electrical circuit’.

Armature - From the Italian. Someone who sits in an armchair and dispenses wisdom, but has never been seen to do any work is called, in the Italian, an  Armchair Electriciano’.

Finally,  Terminal  - A motorcycle that has resisted all attempts of the Rectifier to cure Volt, and which  has been through the Electrical Relay and completed the Electrical Circuit is defined as 'Terminal' and broken down to it’s component parts and sold for spares.

WARNING!   Unless the electrical components are correctly exorcised there is a very real danger that the Amps will possess any bike to which they are fitted.  Under forthcoming EC regulations, when a bike is finally dismantled it will be necessary to remove and destroy all of the battery and wiring loom, much as the brain and spinal tissue must be removed from cows to prevent the spread of BSE.

Growing old is inevitable, growing up is optional!

guest7

  • Guest
Re: Strange starting fault
« Reply #10 on: February 27, 2011, 05:21:13 AM »
Absolutely fantastic, very well done that man. That cheered me up enormously and went some way to lifting my low spirits after reading El Vencejo's last post saying that I'd offended him enough that he was leaving  :(

But where do the electrical fairies actually live?  ;)

Cheers
GC

guest7

  • Guest
Re: Strange starting fault
« Reply #11 on: February 27, 2011, 10:22:36 PM »
Bloody bike didn't do it once yesterday on a 170 mile round trip  ::)

GC

guest1155

  • Guest
Re: Strange starting fault
« Reply #12 on: February 28, 2011, 08:20:23 PM »
Had a similar problem with a 125 eliminator. the fault was with a resistor inside the ignition switch. Dual circuit for the running of the bike, and yes the resistor is there to change something going into the cdi and no it doesnt work at all if you short accross it, might be worth having a look inside your ignition switch though.  good luck

SteveC#222

  • Posts: 1900
Re: Strange starting fault
« Reply #13 on: February 28, 2011, 10:23:32 PM »
As a slight aside, I was reading through one of the bike mags in WH Smiths a while ago and they had one of these how much it costs to replace bits things in. The bike was one of the biggish Jap 4 sportsbikes, I can't remember which. Anyway, a fairing panel was (say) £150, footrest £40ish, indicator £35, chain £120 ish....An Ignition Switch?..................£2500!! Yes that wasn't a typo £2500!! :o :o.  Apparently it's to stop people nicking bikes and replacing the lockset! how the hell you go on if you genuinely need a new ignition switch I'm not sure!

.....I'm not trying to worry you GC!
Growing old is inevitable, growing up is optional!