Chain lube/wax/oil

[Ian]

I'm sure this subject matter is as diversive as engine oil. It may well have been covered before.
What brand/ type do you use? Any particular reason for doing so? (Cost, availability, cleanliness etc).
I'm sure lots just use oil applied (not so) regularly. Anyone using Scottoiler, Tuturo, loobman or other device?
By the way, since I bought a small sample type can from Aldi, I must admit to finding WD40 chain lube for dry conditions pretty good. Very good non fling properties!
Ian 😎

[SteveC#222]

I fitted a Loobman chain oiler years ago and it works fine - no special oil, no drilling inlet hose and it's cheap! My chain & sprockets have been on quite a while and still look new.

[CrazyFrog]

Another vote for Loobman, an excellent bit of kit...

[Steve Lake]

I remove my chain (as it's on a spring link) every 1000 mile or so, wash it in diesel  (or heating oil) , wipe it dry with workshop paper (which is then good stuff for lighting woodburner/bonfires etc). lay it out flat and spray with castrol racing chain lube, turn it over and do the same again. then let it dry.
seems to keep everything in good nick. the chain is 'o' ring, or maybe 'x' ring not sure, but it's doing well.

[Propellor]

If it is an O ring chain in question I'd use a wax spray or racing spray.

After an issue early on with my OE Enfield O ring chain I was forced to revert to a basic non O ring roller chain. I made my own oiler from a hipflask and some 4mm copper tube. I use ep90 although I have some high viscosity straight mineral gear oil when the ep90 is used up. Works really well.

[iansoady]

I use wax on O or X rings like Propellor. The 955i Tiger I had did 20,000 miles on its original chain using Wurth chain wax. I adjusted it precisely once during that period and it was showing no appreciable wear when I sold it on. I don't believe that O and X rings actually need any lubrication (well hardly any) as all the wearing parts (except the inner sides of the side plates) are safely tucked up inside the seals.

For non-O rings I use something like Silkolene spray which seems to stick well. The Norton of course has an engine breather that is directed onto the chain and helps.

I must admit I've never used one of the devices like loobman as they all seem to leave the back end of the bike in such a filthy state.

I use nothing on the Guzzi.......

[johnr]

we did a group buy on loobman oilers on here a few years back. loobman offered a serious discount on group buys so we were able to buy iirc over 30 oilers and then let forum members have them at a serious discount on what you would pay for one, iirc it worked out at about 40% discount. theyre great little bits of kit, both the ones i fitted on our own bikes are still working fine. i also run a scottoiler on the katana, i use cheap chain oil i bought online in bulk a few years back and am still working my way through. alternatively i use old (filtered) engine oil and a bit of diesel to thin it. works just the same and we never have any bother from it.

[timbo]

For years I used a Loobman, and then various Scotoilers. But for the last few years I've gone back to basics. I buy 5 litres of chainsaw oil, and then just brush it on, from a hard durable plastic litre bottle, which has a brush built into the screw top. I paid a pound for it at an army surplus, and reckon its probably from some kind of heavy machine gun cleaning kit or similar. Works a treat, but my rear end is always covered in oil. Doesn't bother me as I don't care what the bike looks like, and give it a deep clean once a year before MOT 

[tigcraft]

Yep chainsaw oil here too. Did have a loobman on another bike which I sold which was quite good but fitting them somewhere discreet is a pig sometimes so back to ladies hair dye pointed bottle and chainsaw oil!!

[mthee]

Yep chainsaw oil here too. Did have a loobman on another bike which I sold which was quite good but fitting them somewhere discreet is a pig sometimes so back to ladies hair dye pointed bottle and chainsaw oil!!

Exactly the same here, even down to the bottle! Fortunately, the boomerang comstars are easy to clean.

[themoudie]

Scott-oilers on 'Sally' SRX600 twin-shock and 'The Boy' Bros400. Both units hidden away in the tailpiece below and behind the seat at the back of the tail light. Vacuum taken from the inlet on both bikes. Work well, can be adjusted so that the rear of the bike doesn't become a slick and are economical. Chainsaw chain oil, used to use Scott-oiler oil but used to fling off more than chainsaw chain oil. Wipe the chains down with a cotton rag or wool sock to remove the build up of cr*p on the side plates. Both chains are 'X'ring type.

Purchased the 'Loobman' oilers from Mart's offer, only used one and it works fine with the chainsaw chain oil. Bit of a b*gger to fit so that it is handy to give the bottle a squeeze when required, yet be tucked away.

'The Mono' runs without a chain oiler, again 'X'ring type. Chainsaw chain oil applied with an old tooth brush dipped in the oil and a small amount of locksmith's dry graphite flakes added. Less fling and luverly and slippery. Seems to be working well, same wipe down and apply after ~500 miles.

The Duke 450 with a 428 rather than the original 530 size chain and no 'X'rings, as there isn't enough room in the cases to fit such a chain, will test the chainsaw chain oil and graphite mix applied with a toothbrush. I may try and find room for a 'Lubeman', time will tell.

Good health and don't let your chain run dry; a clarty rear could mean more mpg or a smoother ride!

Bill