Advice - Worth having??

[manxie]

I`ve been offered this little Ducati Scrambler. I love it`s looks and styling but know nothing about them? Any info or advice would be appreciated please. Worth having? How are they to ride? Thanks, Steve.

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[Moto63]

Wouldn't have a clue about how it'd ride or the worth of the bike either for that matter......but what a cracking little thing.... buy it Steve. You just know you NEED it 😁😁👍. With a bit of tlc it would be corker. Name withheld to protect the innocent (mainly from your good lady wife shud she ever read my post 😁)

[manxie]

Wouldn't have a clue about how it'd ride or the worth of the bike either for that matter......but what a cracking little thing.... buy it Steve. You just know you NEED it 😁😁👍. With a bit of tlc it would be corker. Name withheld to protect the innocent (mainly from your good lady wife shud she ever read my post 😁)

  cheers  Also wondering how useable it would be?

[Steve Lake]

Absolutely worthless Steve.... it'd be a millstone round your neck....  but while i'm here, could you just let me know where it is 

[manxie]

Absolutely worthless Steve.... it'd be a millstone round your neck....  but while i'm here, could you just let me know where it is 

just wondering if it would be useable? 

[themoudie]

Aye Steve,

Depending on the price, buy it! The wide case Scrambler Models are essentially the same as the wide case MKIII models, apart from the re*******at loop of the frame, the handlebars, seat and tank. I ran my 450MKIII on the Island as sole means of transport. Essentially the same as you have been offered, but with rear-sets and clip-ons.

You do not say what CC the beastie is, but a sound 250MKIII can produce just over the ton, the 350 similar and the 450 the same.

Spares for the motors are readily available but NOT CHEAP and DO NOT TAKE THE MOTOR APART IN A RANDOM MANNER!!!!! ALL SHAFTS/GEARS ARE SHIMMED AND THESE NEED TO BE KEPT IN THEIR PLACE AND ORDER!!!!!

Keep the oil clean, 1,000 miles between changes and use either a SAE40W mineral oil or a synthetic SAE10/40W oil. I prefer the SAE40W mineral, but many racers use the other or Castor SAE40W oil. The latter should only be contemplated if you are going to change the oil after every race meeting and doesn't mix with mineral oil.

DO NOT TREAT IT AS A 'THUMPER'! These motors will knock the big end out very quickly if treated this way. My 450 will not pull away cleanly on less than 2,500rpm and revs out to 6,500 - 7,000rpm. The 350 revs out to 8,000rpm and the 250 to 9,000rpm. When racing and using a desmo head, 250's have been taken to 10,500 - 11,000rpm. A Desmo head is only worthwhile on the 250cc or 350cc motors, as they can rev sufficiently high enough to take advantage of their valve control capability.

The electrics will need careful inspection and if they go phut will need replacement. The wiring is thin gauge and readily corrodes, as do the connectors. The electronic ignition failed on mine and upgraded to 12v electrics, points, coil and battery succesfully. In the current rebuild after 15 years off the road and a total of 75,000 miles on the clock, I have upgraded to a 12v system using an 180W alternator and may use points triggered electronic ignition and LED lights. You already have heard of the man in Onchan to whom I would direct you if you should require the electrics seeing too.

I am happy to provide more info if required.

My regards, Bill

[manxie]

WOW Bill, what a great comprehensive description, thank you. It is a 1973 350cc. I`m hoping to look at it in the next few days so I`ll keep you posted. The bike is on the island but will however, need the dreaded Manx test. Not a bad thing but can be expensive. 

Thanks again Bill,

Steve.

[Moto63]

Go on, go on.....buy it, buy it. You NEED it you NEED it...
Just thought I'd try a bit of subliminal messaging 😁😁😁😁... cheers Michael

[themoudie]

Aye Steve,

There should be plenty of compression i.e. stand on kick-start lever and remain standing!    I cannot see from the image if this machine has an exhaust valve lifter or not fitted. If low compression, consider a valve job at least and maybe a rebore. Both can be carried out with the motor in the frame, but removal is that easy probably better to get it on the bench. As long as you set the engine timing dots up before dismantling, the head comes off after removing the 4 head bolts and will go straight back on, if timed correctly when re-assembling. No cylinder head gasket, just a lapped joint that with care will not require attention.

The drum brakes are good, with a twin leading shoe on the front, it appears the double sided Grimeca brake is fitted and the rear is a single leading shoe Grimeca. Re-lining the shoes is not a problem, but more expensive than a pair of pads. Suppliers name can be given when I dig it out.

It appears that the vinyl side covers may be missing  but in my eyes I wouldn't worry, you may feel otherwise.

My regards, Bill

[Smithy]

I'm with Mick, buy it just because it is gorgeous and you can. Life is too dreary if we make all our decisions with our heads, go with your heart.

Ian

[Moto63]

Absolutely 👍👍👍

[bth2bth2]

typicaly italian then?

[manxie]

Sadly, the little Ducati  was highly disappointing in the flesh. Needed too much work for the price. Thanks for all the info guys.    (don't shoot me but I bought a GPZ instead    )

[Steve Lake]

head ruling heart is always a good thing in these situations .... i've lost count of the bikes i've bought ... overuling common sense and spending hours and £'s as a consequence...

[themoudie]

Aye Steve,

May I ask what the asking price was, please?

Thank you.

Bill