HOW TO UNDO A VERY VERY TIGHT LOWER REAR SHOCK BOLT

[SteveC#222]

1 Take the tension out of the shock with a ratchet strap around the swingarm and frame and see if it will move then

2  try 1 + loads of plus gas and try and screw it back into the tread and then out gain and see if it will loosen - some heat will help

3 Is there enough room to make a press using a G cramp with a big deep socket over the bolt head and a small socket pressing directly on the threaded end of the bolt on the screw side of the clamp? - a bit bodge but I've used it in the past.

[xbally]

Thanks for helpful suggestions.I am using the bike at the moment but come next weekend i will have another look using the much appreciated advice and report back.....

[iansoady]

That's why I was asking for a pic (or two) as I'm at a loss to understand exactly what the layout is.

WRT posting photos photobucket and flickr are easy enough to use although infested with ads.

[xbally]

Ian-it's just a standard twin shock arrangement-probably similar to your SLR.

[SteveC#222]

Inner part of shock bracket is threaded.  I nearly dare bet that when the bolt has been undone past the threaded section the compression of the suspension unit is pulling the loose bolt up and stopping it being able to be turned.

[johnr]

give  the bit thats wound out a good sprat with oil and wind it back in to carry the fluid back into the joint.

[iansoady]

If you take the top bolt out that will release any pressure on the bottom one.

It does have the rear wheel off the ground, ie no weight on it doesn't it?

If it turns in the silentbloc bushing there shouldn't really be anything substantial holding it in.

BTW SLR was of course monoshock however current Super Four is twin shock. A quick look at that suggests that once the lower bolt has cleared the captive thread there's nothing stopping it.

[mthee]

3 Is there enough room to make a press using a G cramp with a big deep socket over the bolt head and a small socket pressing directly on the threaded end of the bolt on the screw side of the clamp? - a bit bodge but I've used it in the past.

When I said to  tap it through with a length of dowel, this is really what I meant...

[xbally]

Thanks again to posters......Jonhr and Steve#-yes think you may be right......-sorry Ian -i did think the SLR may be a mono-shock after i posted!Ooops.And i don't think i did undo the top bolt the second time of asking when i got the lower one loosened off.The centre stand is a bit worn-sometimes the rear wheel lifts-sometimes it doesn't.I'll block it up next time.Not sure if there's room to use a make-shift press or to tap through from the back.Probably is if i remove the rear wheel and the right hand exhaust. As i said i won't get time to look until the weekend.

[johnr]

if you want to get the weight off the rear wheel, rather than removing the wheel, put a ratchet strap round the bottom yoke and the front wheel and use it to compress the forks, allowing the bike to rest all its weight on the centre stand.

[xbally]

Right.........update.......had a go at the other (right) side today and the shock came off no problem...but when i removed
the right hand silencer i was "shocked" to find the end of the right side of the swinging arm around the shock mount to be completely corroded to the extent that there were holes in it!Thank God i found this out before the thing collapsed.I hate to think what would have happened at any sort of speed.It looked to me as though it was just  about to collapse!And this is on a bike that i have bought in the last few weeks with a NEW MOT!Fortunately i have a spare swing arm in the project i bought at the same tome from Michael (Moto 63) so i shall be swapping them over.

[themoudie]

Aye xbally,

That sounds pretty grim.  The MoT station/tester needs to be reported to DVLA. It may be their livelihood, but it's your neck! 

Last time Sally was in bits, I went round all the drain holes, poking them out, blowing through with the airline and then 'Waxoil' inside. The other place was the open ends of the box section swinging arm, beyond the chain adjusters. Full of grit and salt, with corrosion, so a full clean and hose, then 'Waxoil', before assembly with copper grease (aluminium/steel).

I hope it all went together for you.

My regards, Bill

[CrazyFrog]

And this is on a bike that i have bought in the last few weeks with a NEW MOT!Fortunately i have a spare swing arm in the project i bought at the same tome from Michael (Moto 63) so i shall be swapping them over.

The last three bikes I've bought with 12 months MOT all turned out to have glaringly obvious MOT failures. Two loose steering head bearings and one rotted silencer. MOT is not worth the paper it is no longer written on. 

[xbally]

I had a struggle mating up the replacement swing arm in the frame pivots-luckily the wife was on hand to assist-it's been years since i asked for her help except for brake bleeding.There was some choice swearing on my part.Put on a better pair of Hagons which came with the MOto63 bike as well and a better pair of footrest hangers.Got a day off tomorrow-hopefully to finish it all off.It was dead easy fitting the new shocks without the weight of the rear wheel in place.I used to rejoice when i took my bike for an MOT but i'm more dubious of the standards applied now.It certainly pays to check it all yourself as i nearly found out to my cost!

[mthee]

MoT pass 3 days ago on shocks leaking oil!