replacing clutch friction plates

[chippit]

Hi, having not used the SRX600 much this year I started it up, turned over a couple of times then it started 1st kick, wow that was unusual. Put it in gear.....clunk, took it out of gear clunk back to the same old problems. I have decided to replace the friction plates(having already thoroughly cleaned everything one) adjusting makes no difference so I can only think the plates are sticking. With the rear wheel off the ground and in gear when the clutch lever is pulled in, it is very difficult to initially turn the back wheel, once it is free it is fine. Has anyone fitted the ebc or is it ebs clutch plates or should I go for the genuine yamaha ones?
Regards Christine
P.S when I had it all apart all the clutch components looked like new, the bike has only done 12000 miles.

[themoudie]

Aye Christine,

EBC and a new clutch spring set at the same time for 'Sally' 25,000km ago and still going well.

Clutch specs on SteveH's excellent site are at this link: http://www.srx600.net/technical/eng_spec/engspec9.php&heading=Clutch

Hope it all goes back together with "nae bother"!

Slainte, Bill.

[Steve H]

Hi, having not used the SRX600 much this year I started it up, turned over a couple of times then it started 1st kick, wow that was unusual. Put it in gear.....clunk, took it out of gear clunk back to the same old problems. I have decided to replace the friction plates(having already thoroughly cleaned everything one) adjusting makes no difference so I can only think the plates are sticking. With the rear wheel off the ground and in gear when the clutch lever is pulled in, it is very difficult to initially turn the back wheel, once it is free it is fine. Has anyone fitted the ebc or is it ebs clutch plates or should I go for the genuine yamaha ones?
Regards Christine
P.S when I had it all apart all the clutch components looked like new, the bike has only done 12000 miles.

Before changing the clutch, I would just warm the bike up, ride it hard and see if the problem is still there afterwards

[Dick Scratcher]

Is your engine oil the correct grade ?, try a different brand of oil. Clutch friction plates normally have a tremendously long life in fact in 48 years of riding I've never changed any. Something that could give you the problem is if the 'plain' plates have 'notched' the clutch basket where the tangs slide stopping them releasing. Best of luck.

[chippit]

I had wondered if slipping the clutch a bit might improve things, I will try that first.
I have changed the oil several times. When I 1st got the bike the gear change was silky smooth, I rode it home 150 miles, it was missing which turned out to be running rich because the choke had stuck open (through lack of use.)
I cleaned the carbs,sorted the choke out and changed the oil and filter, I had no idea what oil was in the bike before but put halfords 10w 40 semi-synthetic motorbike oil in it which quite a few people here have recommended. It was after this that I have started to have problems.

There is no wear on any of the friction plates or metal plates, I have checked everything is flat on a piece of thick glass, there are no grooves in the clutch basket, everything like new.

Is it likely that when it all got hot it damaged the friction plates some how?  I really cleaned everything well when I had it apart then covered the friction plates in the new oil for a few hours (silkolene semi-synthetic 10w 40)
Regards and thanks Christine

Maybe I have been too mechanically sympathetic.......I'll take it for a good thrash and slip the clutch lots.

[Ian]

Hi Christine,
                  Maybe it just wants using a bit more? My hybrid suffers with the same problem occasionally. I have used both Halfrauds and Morris 10/40W semi synthetic and that doesn`t seem to make any difference. And yes I have taken it for a "hard ride" too 
Sorry I cant be of any help in this case.

Ian

[Steve H]

Have you checked the cush drive on the rear sprocket for play. If there is movement it will more than likely amplify any clunking when selecting first.

[guest1380]

Hi Christine,

From what you have described it sounds to me that you either have wear in your clutch basket (look for roughness in the slots where the friction plates sit), or maybe a bad clutch cable (have you checked the amount of cable free play and relative movement from clutch lever on bar to lever on engine)? If the outer covering of the cable (the bit that the cable runs within) is breaking down it will contract as you pull on the lever giving you less movement on the lever at the engine end.

The clutch plates sound fine as they need to grip to work, (I wouldn't bother replacing personally). Sounds like a failure to release fault.

Hope that all makes sense and good luck.

Steve.

[chippit]

Hi, clutch basket looks brand new, no wear where friction plates sit. I replaced the clutch springs (with genuine yanaha ones) when I had it apart, just in case it was not releasing squarely.

Changing the clutch cable sounds like a good idea, it is probably 26 years old and anyway anything that will make pulling the clutch lever in through traffic on a long run has to be a good thing.

With the rear wheel off the ground in gear and clutch lever pulled in the back wheel takes quite a bit to get it moving by hand, once it is moving its ok. letting out the clutch lever the biting point is in the right place but pulling the clutch lever in again it takes quite a bit of effort to turn the back wheel again as though it is dragging.

Pips lined up on the casing, how is the best way to make sure it is all adjusted up right?

Thanks again everyone, realised I have not done more than 150 miles on it this year because it is not right.
Regards Christine

[guest295]

If the clutch cable is that old, you're lucky it works, at all. Do lubricate it well with ordinary engine oil.