Technical > Bike Problems/Questions
Re - Locating Fork Damper Rod After Fork Seal Replacement
xbally:
Not on one of my thumpers, but on my GPZ500S.
I'm rebuilding a fork leg after replacement of a leaking seal without the special tool which stops the damper rod turning as you tighten up the allen bolt on the underside of the fork leg through the stanchion.
I can't get the bolt d in how much I try.
Any tips please?
Ian:
I have never done a Kawasaki, but I looked on the exploded view on Fowlers website. This looks remarkably like the Yamaha SRX forks. I'm sure there are detail differences! I had to make a tool to hold the damper rod, I think it's about 22mm A/F on the end of a longish piece of bar(without looking and measuring it!). Is this a similar size for yours? If so you are welcome to borrow it. (I'm in Telford). They are a bit of if faff to rebuild even with the correct tool. Failing that there's always YouTube, which seems to be the "go-to place" now.
Ian 👍
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themoudie:
Morning, just a quick word afore going for a canter! ::)
The SRX twin shock and Monoshock use the same method of holding the damper tube, using a large hex head on the end of a rod, with a "T" handle.
The hex sizes are different, so you cannot use the twin shock on the monoshock damper rods. I haven't looked at the Fowlers website to see if the hex head size for the GPZ500 is quoted. I am happy to post dimensions for the two tools that I have, both home made, using large HT bolts, welded onto lengths of bar, with a "T" handle.
Toodle loo, Bill
xbally:
Thank you.
Yes mine's the same as the Youtube video.
Here are pics of what I've been trying to use todate.
The problem is the damper road part I'm trying to hold is round.
I've tried hammering the socket in the photos into the damper road with my soft faced mallet but I still can't get the allen screw started on the bottom of the damper rod through the hole in the fork leg bottom.
xbally:
more pics
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