Thumper Club Forum
Technical => Bike Problems/Questions => Topic started by: xbally on March 15, 2017, 01:19:50 PM
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Ok-on my newly acquired XBR there is a pair of very rusty Hagon shocks which work ok but look horrible!I have a better looking pair which came with my other recently acquired XBR project from Moto 36 which i wish to fit for the moment but...the bottom mounts are so rusty i'm afraid the bolts will shear if i apply too much pressure.I am dousing them with WD40 / penetrating fluid and know that heat can help but is there anything else i can do the remove these without creating a load of grief please?
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You're doing the right thing. Lots of WD40 or similar for the next couple of days to let it really soak in and then an appointment with Mr Blowtorch! Make sure you have a good fitting socket too.
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An air or electric impact wrench would help too as they don't concentrate huge amounts of torque for long periods of time. I have to say my Clarke electric impact wrench is prolly the best tool I've ever bought!
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Stop using WD40 and try Plus-Gas which is much better penetrating oil. Leave 24 hours. It's often best to try tightening slightly then slackening.
Can you get a blowtorch on it without damaging anything?
If it's just a nut & bolt I'd just let it snap off as you'll need a new one anyway.
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Freeze spray on the bolt can help, sold in Maplins as its usually used for electronics repairs drops the temperature to -50c
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I swear by plus gas. Better if left a while and possibly apply heat.
Apart from that.... it's butchery!
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Thanks..........i'll get the penetrating fluid on for the next few days and take it from there.......I think there's access for the blow torch.Time is the one thing i've got plenty of!I don't have access to an air tool unfortunately.......
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I use a little gas pencil torch, some of us plumbers use it for lead burning, it has a more concentrated area of heat and give it a decent tap with a hammer too!! Works for me but if you break yours it`s not my fault ;)
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Try heat first,some Wally might have loctited the bolts.Heat will destroy the Loctite, Plus Gas will help,if you soak the threads.
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It was easy to spot the plumber in those few pots eh🚽 😀😀.
Yes I too usually go god the plus gas first then if that fails it's the plumbers gas 👍
Best of luck Martin
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Firts dash of plus gas applied this morning and i shall keep at it over the next few days and try heat as well...thanks...will let you know how i get on....... :-X
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Update...got one undone now thanks...it didn't snap off...used penetrating fluid no heat required...had to take the silencer off for access for a 1/2 inch drive with my torque wrench for leverage.I'm now having trouble winding the bolt out!They usually just come out with a tool but this one doesn't want to.I've tried applying pressure with a socket and i've carefully clamped a large mole grip to the bolt head and tried to wiggle it free to no avail.
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A picture would help......
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Hmmmmmmmm...i'm afraid i'm not great with IT.I've never attempted to post a pic on here.Can i just take a digital pic and upload it by clicking on the attachment and other options button or do i need to put the pic on a photo hosting site as i have never used the latter.The problem i've got is simply getting enough purchase on the bottom shock mount bolt.The bolt will unscrew as far as the thread but then won't come out any further-it's just turning in the mount-whereas it will normally just wind out as you turn it with the socket.
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It's not under any load from the shock, is it? How about getting a mate with a length of wooden dowel to tap the bolt end from the other side whilst you turn it? Or is it inaccessible for that?
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1 Take the tension out of the shock with a ratchet strap around the swingarm and frame and see if it will move then
2 try 1 + loads of plus gas and try and screw it back into the tread and then out gain and see if it will loosen - some heat will help
3 Is there enough room to make a press using a G cramp with a big deep socket over the bolt head and a small socket pressing directly on the threaded end of the bolt on the screw side of the clamp? - a bit bodge but I've used it in the past.
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Thanks for helpful suggestions.I am using the bike at the moment but come next weekend i will have another look using the much appreciated advice and report back.....
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That's why I was asking for a pic (or two) as I'm at a loss to understand exactly what the layout is.
WRT posting photos photobucket and flickr are easy enough to use although infested with ads.
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Ian-it's just a standard twin shock arrangement-probably similar to your SLR.
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(https://static.motorcyclespareparts.eu/images/honda/motorcycles/CE_37276_1.JPG)
Inner part of shock bracket is threaded. I nearly dare bet that when the bolt has been undone past the threaded section the compression of the suspension unit is pulling the loose bolt up and stopping it being able to be turned.
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give the bit thats wound out a good sprat with oil and wind it back in to carry the fluid back into the joint.
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If you take the top bolt out that will release any pressure on the bottom one.
It does have the rear wheel off the ground, ie no weight on it doesn't it?
If it turns in the silentbloc bushing there shouldn't really be anything substantial holding it in.
BTW SLR was of course monoshock however current Super Four is twin shock. A quick look at that suggests that once the lower bolt has cleared the captive thread there's nothing stopping it.
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3 Is there enough room to make a press using a G cramp with a big deep socket over the bolt head and a small socket pressing directly on the threaded end of the bolt on the screw side of the clamp? - a bit bodge but I've used it in the past.
When I said to tap it through with a length of dowel, this is really what I meant...
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Thanks again to posters......Jonhr and Steve#-yes think you may be right......-sorry Ian -i did think the SLR may be a mono-shock after i posted!Ooops.And i don't think i did undo the top bolt the second time of asking when i got the lower one loosened off.The centre stand is a bit worn-sometimes the rear wheel lifts-sometimes it doesn't.I'll block it up next time.Not sure if there's room to use a make-shift press or to tap through from the back.Probably is if i remove the rear wheel and the right hand exhaust. As i said i won't get time to look until the weekend.
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if you want to get the weight off the rear wheel, rather than removing the wheel, put a ratchet strap round the bottom yoke and the front wheel and use it to compress the forks, allowing the bike to rest all its weight on the centre stand.
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Right.........update.......had a go at the other (right) side today and the shock came off no problem...but when i removed
the right hand silencer i was "shocked" to find the end of the right side of the swinging arm around the shock mount to be completely corroded to the extent that there were holes in it!Thank God i found this out before the thing collapsed.I hate to think what would have happened at any sort of speed.It looked to me as though it was just about to collapse!And this is on a bike that i have bought in the last few weeks with a NEW MOT!Fortunately i have a spare swing arm in the project i bought at the same tome from Michael (Moto 63) so i shall be swapping them over.
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Aye xbally,
That sounds pretty grim. ??? The MoT station/tester needs to be reported to DVLA. It may be their livelihood, but it's your neck! >:(
Last time Sally was in bits, I went round all the drain holes, poking them out, blowing through with the airline and then 'Waxoil' inside. The other place was the open ends of the box section swinging arm, beyond the chain adjusters. Full of grit and salt, with corrosion, so a full clean and hose, then 'Waxoil', before assembly with copper grease (aluminium/steel).
I hope it all went together for you.
My regards, Bill
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And this is on a bike that i have bought in the last few weeks with a NEW MOT!Fortunately i have a spare swing arm in the project i bought at the same tome from Michael (Moto 63) so i shall be swapping them over.
The last three bikes I've bought with 12 months MOT all turned out to have glaringly obvious MOT failures. Two loose steering head bearings and one rotted silencer. MOT is not worth the paper it is no longer written on. ???
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I had a struggle mating up the replacement swing arm in the frame pivots-luckily the wife was on hand to assist-it's been years since i asked for her help except for brake bleeding.There was some choice swearing on my part.Put on a better pair of Hagons which came with the MOto63 bike as well and a better pair of footrest hangers.Got a day off tomorrow-hopefully to finish it all off.It was dead easy fitting the new shocks without the weight of the rear wheel in place.I used to rejoice when i took my bike for an MOT but i'm more dubious of the standards applied now.It certainly pays to check it all yourself as i nearly found out to my cost!
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MoT pass 3 days ago on shocks leaking oil!
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I had a struggle mating up the replacement swing arm in the frame pivots-luckily the wife was on hand to assist-it's been years since i asked for her help except for brake bleeding.There was some choice swearing on my part.Put on a better pair of Hagons which came with the MOto63 bike as well and a better pair of footrest hangers.Got a day off tomorrow-hopefully to finish it all off.It was dead easy fitting the new shocks without the weight of the rear wheel in place.I used to rejoice when i took my bike for an MOT but i'm more dubious of the standards applied now.It certainly pays to check it all yourself as i nearly found out to my cost!
......should have said i used to rejoice when i took my bike for an MOT AND IT PASSED...................
Anyway finished the job today...all back together quite easily now.The only problem was the brake light switch spring broke off at either end due to age but i managed to get a new Honda one off the shelf from my friendly local dealer QB Motorcycles..........