Thumper Club Forum
Technical => Project Progress => Topic started by: Mart on December 08, 2015, 12:01:57 AM
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I have at last started doing a few bits of worlk on my project. Cutting excess bit of the frame and the GSX tank still some more bits to change on both. Cutting down the GSX seat pan this may not bit the last word on the seat.Having Pan European fork yokes machined to fit the DR frame [this is my plan to move the forks forward so that they don't foul the fuel tank.] There is still some work to do either on the lower yoke or the steering stops on the frame as there are two circular protrusions on the fork yoke which foul the steering stops. I haven't decided whether to attack the yoke or the stops, erring toward the the frame as the pointy bits on the end of the stops will only need the tips to be removed and the circular bits may affect the integrity of the fork forging.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/66862194/2015-12-07%2019.06.09.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/66862194/2015-12-08%2000.10.50.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/66862194/2015-12-08%2000.10.56.jpg)
I had to get tech support in to help with the picture links. I had to buy the prongy tool to remove the tapers from the headstock; it worked a treat
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DR800 Café Racer, this sounds like an awesome project, good luck and hope to see plenty of pic`s ;) Good luck :)
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Good luck with the project Mart, really interested in this one :)
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Cutting, chopping, grinding you say!!!!..........always interested. Looking forward to seeing/reading your progress reports. Best of luck. Cheers.. Michael
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Sounds like an interesting project, I will be following this
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Also looking forward to this.
Best of lukc and lots of pics!
Mackenzie
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Yes, good luck, and keep us all posted :)
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Aye Mart,
All the best and may I offer some inspiration?
Harris_855 (http://www.harris855.de/gallerie.htm)
My regards, Bill
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Great set of photos Bill, really enjoyed pouring over them. The bike on them is very similar to the ikuzawa that I bought off our great leader (Graham) the other year, the frame is very similar, personally I prefer the tank on the ikuzawa. I still have,nt got round to stripping and rebuilding it yet (hopefully in 2016) then it'll be seeing some track time hopefully. I,ll keep you all posted of any developments and thanks again Bill for posting the photos. (Your clearly a lot smarter than me ;) ;))......cheers. Michael
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Ps. I,m sure once he see,s them it,ll give mart some real inspiration. Get that grinder out ;) ;)
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I'm not planning anything quite as radical as that Bill. More of a US interpretation of a cafe racer, and I won't be doing any track days. For one thing I am too old to ride all scrunched up; I prefer a more upright riding position.
Mart
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Aye Michael,
I'm not sure about the "smart" bit, just experiment and crash things a bit until I get the sequence! ;) A bit like driving the GIS to draw maps. ???
Aye Mart,
"Too old to ride all scrunched up", Mmmm, at 6'2" I have rear sets on the SRX and can still cope with rear sets on a Duke single. But need a stretch after 150 miles! ;) It still feels comfortable compared to riding around lying on yer back in 'Cruiser' mode, ape hangers (those were the days) or the current fad for forward set foot pegs and clip-ons! :o The latter is also the position favoured by many Italian lightweight manufacturers of the '50's to '70's and that really screws your lower back muscles and coccyx up, as I found to my cost afore fitting rear sets. :-[ Whatever your choice, enjoy every minute of it. :) Pegs below the vertical line of your hips in the saddle (take some weight on your feet) and some bars that allow a slight lean into the 'breeze', those old Meridan Triumph bars were good. ;)
My regards to you both, Bill
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I Love the idea of this project, a stonking big single cylinder special! I haven't got the skill to do something like this myself but will be following your project with interest.
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I'm not sure that I have the skill either, but I will find out.
I sawed the end off the steering stops yesterday; Just the pointy end that was interfering with the lower yoke forging. It now works fine and there is more than enough left on the stops for them to do their job.
today I fitted one fork tube so I could check that it didn't foul the tank [79 GS550] on full lock, that seems OK. I trimmed a bit more off the seat pan, [GSX750] drilled a few holes to rearrange some of the supporting rubbers and laid the tank,seat and H&B rack losely in place, and it doesn't look to bad to me.
I want to get the bottom of the tank modified as I think it can be made to take another 4/5 Litres. If any knows of someone who can undertake that sort of work for me in the Midlands I would like their contact number please. I have a flyer for a firm in sheffield that do that sort of work but I would prefer to get it done locally if possible. also seat covering as I am not confidant that I could do that to a satisfactory standard.
I know the fork is in upside down at the moment but it makes it easier to swivel the forks from side to side if the bottom end is not resting on the ground
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/66862194/2015-12-12%2016.32.39.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/66862194/2015-12-12%2016.32.50.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/66862194/2015-12-12%2016.38.21.jpg
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Nice one Mart, really starting to take shape
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Aye Mart,
Petrol tank mods?
Try these gentlemen, personally known and keen racers: SCRClassics (http://www.scrclassics.co.uk/)
Have a view of their YouTube and Flickr account links at the bottom of their site for further insight into what they get up to.
This link shows you the bottom of the Duke 175 tank before restoration: Duke175_tank_before (https://www.flickr.com/photos/alternativeshot/3155493083/)
This link shows you the bottom of the Duke 175 tank during restoration: Duke175_tank_during (https://www.flickr.com/photos/alternativeshot/4236318325/)
This link shows you the restored Duke 175 tank: Duke175_tank_restored (https://www.flickr.com/photos/alternativeshot/7487997078/)
This link shows you the restored Duke 175: Restored_Ducati_175_Silverstone (https://www.flickr.com/photos/alternativeshot/7487989120/)
Enjoy the pics, even if you choose not to speak to Stu and Andy.
My regards, Bill
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Morning Bill, the tank repair photo,s made for interesting viewing. I.m looking at doing some work on one of my XBR tanks but as my arm is still not functioning quite right after my accident I may just give these guys a call. Thanks.... Michael
Ps......Mart...I just thought they were the latest version of the "upside down" fork ;) ;) ;) ;)
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Hi Mart, Glad to see you took the plunge.....looking good.
Dave.
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Aye Michael,
My pleasure and I hope the soft tissue damage mends itself, time! ::) And it waits for no man, I'm afraid.
Regards, Bill
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Yes Bill, it's getting there thanks. Like you say give it time and I'm sure it'll be right. Patience was never my virtue. Unfortunately my bike came off worse than me hence my "wanted post" for an XBR engine. No luck as yet, so I'll keep looking. Cheers....Michael
Ps.... My apologies to mart for "temporally" hi-jacking his thread.
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Thanks Bill that link may be useful as my Brother lives nearby in Cambridge so I could drop the tank of when Visiting sometime.
I'd prefer not to post it as my written instructions may not be very easy to understand.
Hi Dave , thanks for the encouragement I probably would not have begun without your input. having a new front wheel spindle made Plus spacers as the Honda forks are 20mm further apart than the Suzuki ones.
I commited to this venture by buying a wilbers rear shock whis is supposed to lower the back end by @ 2" [£440] ouch. Smaller rim on the front will take care of lowering that end too. It's really just getting someone else to do the technical stuff while I cut off all the unecessary lugs and bolt it all back together. I am concerned about doing away with the oil cooler as you have done. Has it caused you any problems?
I am aware that when I have finished it will have cost more than the bike is worth but as I don't intend to sell it that won't be a problem.
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Aye Mart,
Could you make up a cardboard or plywood pattern of the underside shape you require?
My regards, Bill
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Hi Michael, I think that XBR tank you got off me will need a similar amount of work to the Ducati one featured :-\ Still, nothing ventured, nothing gained ;)
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Hi Tim, yes mate I started doing a bit on it, it's like tissue paper in places. To use the phrase "wafer thin" is defo not an exaggeration!! However it's going to be worth the effort (I hope) once it's finished, de seamed and with a weld in flush fitting fuel cap installed it shud look pretty smart so thanks again for sending it over. I'll try my best to Suss out how to post a photo or two once it's finished.......cheers ...Michael
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Stick with yours Mart, it'll defo be worth all the hard work I'm sure. Really looking forward to following your progress.....
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......I am concerned about doing away with the oil cooler as you have done. Has it caused you any problems?.......
The short answer is no. I think that without the plastic crankcase guard, there is a lot more surface area for the oil to be cooled, as it is a wet sump (2.6L), so I replaced the cooler with a braided hose to suit the style of the bike.
I've done a good few thousand miles on it since it was built and also did the MotoPiston Picos (including the 5000 curves) meet last year in Northern Spain covering over 1000miles without any issues.
Dave.
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Thanks Bill,
I've been thinking a cardboard pattern would be needed anyway whether I see whoever is going to do the work or not. It is always good to discuss requirements in person though I think.
Hello Michael,
I used dropbox to post my pictures. It seemed pretty straighforward once tech support [No.1 son] showed me how to do it.
Thanks Dave,
I think I will probably follow your example. If it works for you it should for me. also it means less work and a cleaner looking appearance.
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this project has ascinated me and inspied me to start digging out my own dr big project bike thats sat abandoned at the back of my shed for nearly 5 years now! as for the oil coolers, they arent really needed most of the time, i think they were added for the look more than anything else and perhaps more for the likelyhood of the bikes overheating in traffic rather than needing cooling when being pasted flat out down the motorway.
anyhow, theyre a stonking engine, and unless youve owned one, you wont believe how unlike a single their power delivery is. you cant plod these engines, they are designed to be pasted like a multi cylinder engine.
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Aye johnr,
With oversquare dimensions like these "Bore x Stroke, 105 x 90 mm." I'm not surprised they like the revs. Same as all Jap singles and Ducati singles, rev it! ;)
There is likely to be little torque below 2K - 2½K, although Sally will wiffle along with about 2K on a light throttle in a middle gear, don't ask her to accelerate, the mechanical mayhem is obvious to all but an ignorant mechanical ear. ::)
Enjoy the extraction and rebuild. ;)
My regards, Bill
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I like custom builds so I'll be watching progress. Good luck that it all turns out how you want. Look forward to seeing the finished result.
Regarding the oil cooler. Weren't Suzuki into using the oil to cool the piston and maybe the combustion chamber area? I don't know if this bike is such a design? If so, wouldn't this put "direct" heat into the oil. Could it be that the cooler comes into its own if the bike is held at full power for a sustained period? More likely in a competition setting. Dunno. Just guessing really. ;)
Bill, I don't know which bike takes the honours for most oversquare. But I reckon the Ducati panigale might be it?
112x60.8 !! :o
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Yes, they are an oil/air cooled motor. There is a direct oil jet from the crank supply to the underside of the piston, but being a roller/ball bearing engine, they only run very low oil pressure.
John is right, they are a lovely engine, so smooth (the 750 is best IMHO) with twin balance shafts and plenty fast enough to keep up with more modern bikes.
Dave.
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Hi John,
Glad I've got some competition now it will help keep me motivated. Although now that I've started I can't seem to stop. I try to do at least a little bit each day even if it is only to remeasure something that I have already measure 20 times or more.
This is the sort of look I would like although mine will be mainly black.
https://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://www.caferacer.net/forum/attachments/project-builds/3789d1381321841-suzuki-dr-750-800-cafemoto-16095771ry.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.caferacer.net/forum/project-builds/21976-suzuki-dr-750-800-cafemoto.html&h=599&w=799&tbnid=CkUt7ZRVGyep2M:&docid=9u8P93mxT-POSM&ei=iyh1Vv-BJMvkUq_XgOAE&tbm=isch&ved=0ahUKEwi_86-P0-fJAhVLshQKHa8rAEwQMwhRKCYwJg
I'm also thinking a lower level exhaust as I am unlikely to lean it enough in the corners to scrape it. I am also planning on losing the airbox and fitting K&Ns Not as efficient I know but I do not intend to ride it in the desert.
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.......... I am also planning on losing the airbox and fitting K&Ns ........
Be careful if you are using the std carbs, if you put K&N,s straight onto CV carbs, you will lose power at low to medium throttle opening.
CV's need a volume of air between the carb and the filter to function properly.
On DRnotsoBIG I used twin K&N's with approx 3" dia x 4" long aluminium tubes and mounted the filters on the front of the battery tray (I didn't have room for the std airbox due to taking 70mm out of the subframe.
On the Starfire lookalike I made a GRP plenum to take a single K&N, the biggest I could make to fit around the battery and inside the frame and BSA sidepanels.
Dave.
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Thanks Dave, will bear that in mind.
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thats really nice mart, mine is planned to be a bit different though. i once owned a suzuki katana 400, an exact replica of the bigger katanas but at 3/4's of the size of the 1100, and with modern handlin and dimensions. it handled brilliantly. the only thing i didnt like was the awful gutless rev happy engine.my mind couldnt get round the egg whisk noise of pasting it to 12 thousand revs (the 250 revved to over 15 grand!) but i loved the look, the handling, the brakes, everything but the motor. so, i stripped my dr big and kept the motor and electrics and carbs, and sold the rest, then i bought an engine less 400 katana nfinished project, and well, you can guess where this is heading. hopefully it will just look like a katana, albeit a tatty scruffy one. but it will go like merry hell!
i did consider some spoked supermoto wheels like the ones in that pic, but decided i liked the look of the katana stock wheeld better.
it got shoved to the back of the shed when my enthusiasm waned and various other things have kept me from getting in there for a few years now. but ive got to sell a few bikes to get the room and the finances i need to finish this thing now. i loved the dr big i had, well, i loved the way the engine felt, but hated the slow ponderous handling and weight. the exact opposite of the katana experience. one has a brill chassis and an awful motor, the other has an awful chassis and a brill motor, why not link the two.
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Hi john, sounds like an interesting build you've got going, you'll av to get some pics posted up if poss. Would like to see it. I once almost bought a 400 katana, kinda always wish I had. Such is life. Cheers....Michael
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Got my longer wheel spindle and Spacers back from the machine shop today. With the forks fitted and both wheels in the bike is now easier to move around the shed. beginning to look good. I expect That I should try and start the engine soon as I have not heard it run, I only have the previous owner's word that it is good. Once that is done I can rmove the engine for a clean and paint. It will be easier to delug with the engine out of the way as well.
Here are a few pictures of the bike up on its feet
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/66862194/Project%20bike/2015-12-21%2016.30.40.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/66862194/Project%2-12-21%2016.30.57.jpg0bike/2015)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/66862194/Project%20bike/2015-12-21%2016.31.19.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/66862194/Project%20bike/2015-12-21%2016.31.45.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/66862194/Project%20bike/2015-12-21%2016.32.36.jpg)
The Fork stanchions look a bit long and out of proportion [ and that's with an inch or two sticking out of the top yoke ]without the gaiters and the beak to hide the top bit. They will probably look even more ungainly with a smaller front rim fitted; I may have to get them shortened.we shall see.
Squirrel, if you are looking at this how would you feel about coming and tidying my shed?
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Looking good Mart. :)
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Looking good Mart. :)
Steve it was you who told me " He who dies with the most toys wins."
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Loving the look of this Mart !!!!! Nice one 8)
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Keep the pics coming Mart, looking great
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Looking really good Mart :)
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I haven't done much on the bike over The holiday. I did tidy up a few frame lug scars with my new Dremel cut off blades with the quick release gismo, they work really well. I bought some card today to make some templates for the tank mods which I now intend to try and do myself. The card was more expensive than the steel plate I bought to try and do the job. As I have decided to try and do the mwork myself I am on the lookout for damaged tanks that are just scrap value so that I can practise cutting ,banging and welding/brazing. I shall ring round a few local dealers tomorrow as they must replace a few tanks from time to time. Hope you all have a good new year, it is my intention to try and set an example in this regard. Mart
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Been a bit quiet on the project front recently.
I have cut a piece out of the top of a GSX 750 tank so that I can replace the fuel filler cap with a lockable one
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/66862194/2016-02-05%2016.13.50.jpg)
I intend to cut the recessed part of top of the GS tank out [ I think this originally housed a lockable flap over the filler cap but as you can see it has been removed by a previous owner] and weld a fillet in place flush with the rest of the tank. I think the two skulls probably fill the mounting holes for aforesaid flap.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/66862194/2016-02-05%2016.18.30.jpg)
I quite like the old fashioned look of the in situ filler cap but for peace of mind I prefer the security of a lockable one
The leading edge of the tank just in front of the filler cap will be extended @25mm, to hide a bit more of the top frame tube. and a replacement tunnel made to increase tank volume.
I got two GSX tanks from ebay; one badly dented and the other very good. Both tanks were missing their keys so I had the lock in the good one picked and new keys made. I cut the top off the dented one and got the cap out that way. The good one will go back on ebay and I will keep the dented one to practise my welding on
I have decided to have a go at these mods myself, and to that end I have booked myself on a fabrication course to learn how to shrink and stretch metal and weld.
5 days in Cornwall on what I think is called a special interest holiday. It probably won't cost much more than paying someone to do the mods and it will be a lot more fun.
I have spent a lot of time pondering which wires need to be connected to run the engine; I haven't heard it run yet and would like to make sure it runs before I get too far ahead of myself. I do have a couple of spare 750 engines one of which I know runs. Any electrical geniuses [Genii?] near me [west Midlands] would be made extremely welcome and plied with cups of tea and bacon sarnies in return for advice.
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did you not keep the original dr loom? i kept mine with the thought that once the motor was fitted, i could refit the loom, run it and then remove or modify the existing loom to suit the build rather than start from scratch wiring the ignition and starting circuit. everything gets so complex when there are clutch switches, decompressor sensors sidestand cutouts etc all in the mix, start with the stock loom, get it to run, then start removing bits you dont need.
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I hope you are going to keep the skulls! :o
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John,
I do have a loom which I think is or a dr800 and it seems that most of the connectors are in place. I'm sure it will all come together when I set about it.
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Just spotted this on ebay, not mine, nothing to do with me but I feel it`s a very nice bit of kit, and worth sharing.....maybe an idea or two for your own DR ?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-dr-800-flat-tracker-/222025946530?hash=item33b1c715a2:g:YO8AAOSwUuFWw2xT
[deleted to save space]
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Interesting. It looks to be well executed. The styling is not like my plan at all. Love the fork yokes, not so keen on the front wheel or the front tank mounting. If I had £1,500 to spare I would be tempted to have a punt, but my spare cash is going on a wheeling machine, http://www.justinbaker.co.uk/ , and gas welding set. I hope that I will then be able to make a new tank and tinware. I did a wheeling course, http://www.mphmotorpanels.com/ , last week and think I have got the basics so now all I need to do is practice. The course was great fun and very informative although standing in front of a wheeling machine all day is tough on an old fogey.
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A long time with not much happening. I have at last managed to tack weld two halves of a rejected panel without either blowing holes in it or it falling apart.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/66862194/2017-01-20%2014.34.16.jpg)
I had to buy two stage regulators for both the Oxy and the Acetylene this make the gas pressure to the torch much steadier at low [2.5 psi] pressure. Next I need to fill in the gaps and then I can cut it in two again and repeat the process again, and keep doing that until I get it right. Luckily I seem to have plenty of scap panels to practise on. I am now considering a new set of wheels for the wheeling machine as I don't think the ones it came with are very good. I probably need a better quality machine as well but they ain't cheap. Anybody got a good one they don't want?
I now have two spare single stage regulators which I don't need so they will be going on Ebay soon.