Srx fork re chrome

[Ram427]

Hi all

I need more help.

I’m stripping down the forks and have so far stripped the lowers from the stanchions but have come against a block.

There are some parts in the bottom of the stanchions, that basically keep them from separating from the damper rod when in situ. There are 2 holes on the ID that looks like it is the location for some sort of expanding tool but I can’t find any reference on tinterweb, can anyone help identify the tool/ method of getting these components from the stanchions?

Also on the stanchions, does any one have the part number of the lower split bearing bush? The top one is listed on the srx600.net parts list but the lowers aren’t listed.

Thanks



Roger

[Ram427]

Forgot to say it’s a 1JK import, complete with air valves atop the forks if that makes any difference to the stanchions.

Thanks

Roger

[themoudie]

Aye Roger,

Welcome to the Forum.

Using the srx600.net parts list for reference you say that you have "....have so far stripped the lowers from the stanchions .....". So you have undone and removed the cap screw (18.40) [18=RH stanchion & 40=LH stanchion] both parts have the same part number: 278-23181-50

You have then pulled the fork slider (tube, outer 2, part number: 1JK-23136-00) from the stanchion. The spindle taper plug (12.32) part number: 3R6-23173-L0 can then be tipped out from the fork slider tube.

The contents of the stanchion (11,13,14,16,17,19 and 20) should all come out of the stanchion, after unscrewing 17, which on your forks has a Schrader air valve in it. The remaining steel disc in the bottom of the stanchion is not removable unless you are going to destroy the rolled flange on the bottom of the stanchion that retains it. Leave well alone and clean thoroughly, using clean paraffin, followed by brake cleaner. The lower split bearing bush wears very little and is not listed in the Yamaha OEM parts list, I have not had to replace this when rebuilding my 1JK forks and they have now completed 124,000Km +. It is the upper bush (7.27) part number: 3OX-23125-00 that takes all the wear.

I usually, purchase these sorts of spares from either Fowler's of Bristol. Link to their parts list for the SRX600 forks Fowler's_SRX_forks_parts_list or Yambits Yambits_SRX_forks_parts_list and Wemoto Wemoto_SRX_forks_parts_list or you may choose to use your local Yamaha dealer.

I also use this bearing and seals company 'Simply Bearings Ltd' Link: Simply_Bearings_Ltd as their seals and bearings are OEM quality and cheaper than those supplied as genuine or OEM by the motorcycle trade, with very rapid service. Order before 16:00hrs and you should have them next day by 1st class post.

Once you have rebuilt your forks, you can either choose to run with no air pressure or between 2 - 5psi. DO NOT USE AN AIRLINE OR YOU WILL BLOW THE SEALS!      Either SteveH (owner of the SRX600.net site) or SteveL may have their own opinions on all of this and may be along to add their pennys worth later.

If you would like a pdf copy of a SRX600 workshop manual, I can email you the pdf if you contact me via my PM link beneath my avatar on the left-hand side of this message stating your email address.

Finally, if you are in the 'Bike Problems/Questions' board and you enter "SRX forks" into the 'Search' window in the upper right of the screen and then select 'Search', you should select a list of bedtime reading on SRX forks!    There are 26 threads!

My regards, Bill

[Ram427]

Hi Bill

I was concerned about the captive parts in the bottom of the stanchion when it goes for chroming.

There is also a plastic (looks like nylon) washer captive. Knowing the chroming process as I do (used to work for an aerospace company that overhauled aircraft undercarriage- same processes but much much bigger scale), masking the parts for chroming will be difficult and any feature like this will trap in the acids used in cleaning/rechroming. It was the std process to remove every thing before chroming.

I assumed the captive parts in the stanchions  were removable, but missed the roll over of the end- must get better lighting in the garage. 😀

 I guess the plating company will know how to deal with the captive parts.

Thanks for the comprehensive answer (as always), a pdf of the manual would be much appreciated, i’ll Send a PM.

Thanks

Roger

[themoudie]

Aye Roger,

Ian who has restored several SRX and is a regular contributor to the forum and I have both had the complete oil lines from the engine to the oil cooler on 1JK and 3VN SRX machines including the metal braided/rubber parts bright nickel plated without damage, by two different plating companies. My understanding, after briefly talking with the plater that I used, was that the length of time the item spends in the cleaning agent and then the 'pickling' solutions, before being immersed in the plating bath makes a huge difference as to whether these non-removable plastic/rubber parts are damaged. A "Dark" art is plating! 

My regards, Bill

[Ian]

Hello Roger,
 Are you still struggling with stripping your forks down completely. You will need a tool to hold the damper rod (inside the fork tube) whilst undoing an M8 cap head bolt through the hole machined in the bottom of the lower alloy outer fork leg.
It's actually harder to describe than actually do.  A couple of things to be aware of....
1)You'll need a fairly long Allen key to undo the cap head bolt.
2) These bolts can be quite tight as they are normally "loctited" (other locking solutions are available).
3) There is (or should be) a copper washer that sometimes sticks when disassembling the forks totally.
I hope this helps and also that I haven't gotten hold of the wrong end of the stick.
I am sure I have a home made tool for holding the damper rod if you are totally stuck. PM me if you need further help
Best regards
Ian 🙂

[Ram427]

Aye Bill

Good to know the lines can be plated, mine are looking a little tired. My original idea was to get the bike on the road and then rebuild later/over the winter/whenever, I think it may be better to crack on now the front end is in pieces.

Hi Ian

Forks all done thanks, stanchions are at Philpotts as I type. I spoke to a couple of platers but Philpotts, although a little more expensive, talked the talk better. Trouble is the lead time is 8 weeks.

I had to knock up the ‘special’ tool as well. One m14 nut and a piece of square tube found in the corner of the man cave welded together was all that was needed.

Cheers

Roger