Author Topic: SNATCHY RS 250  (Read 824 times)

iansoady

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Re: SNATCHY RS 250
« Reply #15 on: July 29, 2016, 09:26:00 AM »
That looks like very interesting stuff.

When I had my Tiger 955i I decided to convert the conventional spoked wheels to take tubeless tyres, and used an aeronautical fuel tank sealer which I got from a local specialist supplier. They were very helpful and actually gave me a boxful of (almost) time-expired stuff of all sorts FOC as they couldn't be used in aircraft. The chap I dealt with was also very helpful when I explained the application - which was effectively to seal the spoke heads inside the rims.

The mod worked perfectly for the 8 years I had the bike after doing it, and AFAIK is still going strong despite dire warnings on various forums that I would kill myself..... In fact, I still use the sealant for various jobs.

The moral is that there are lots of very useful non-bike materials around if only you can find them.
Ian.
1952 Norton ES2
1986 Honda XBR500
1958(ish) Grumph.....

timbo

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Re: SNATCHY RS 250
« Reply #16 on: July 29, 2016, 10:17:31 PM »
Facinating thread, a whole world of rubber goods I'd never even heard of  :-\
Namaste

Dick Scratcher

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Re: SNATCHY RS 250
« Reply #17 on: July 31, 2016, 08:32:12 PM »
I and a friend of mine in Shropshire had problems with the rear sprockets on our RS's in the form of too much 'fore and aft' plus excessive 'sideways' movements on the timeworn hub (my bike failed the MOT because of it). What we both did (his idea) was to remove the 'very' large retaining circlip and withdraw the sprocket with the four 'drive pegs', obtain from a bearing/oil seal supplier four 'thickish' neoprene ring seals that are a snug fit over each 'drive peg'. Follow these rings with a (as tight as possible) s/steel flat (thin) washer and then refit the assembly back onto the hub. In order to give adequate room for the 'very' big circlip to be located in the groove in the hub it will be necessary to fabricate a 'compressor' of sorts to squash the seals enough for that to be achieved. This device is simply made using a couple of strips of scrap steel and two 8" lengths of 8mm threaded rod + nuts/washers. I know that this is not an 'Engineers Answer' but it does work and unless you can think of anything else, it'll do. This 'bodge' I did on my RS 3 years ago and there's been no problems.........nor with the MOT Test. All RS sprockets by now will be a sloppy fit on the almost certainly worn hubs and unless you can get and pay for the necessary parts...this is an option. Regards to all.

manxie

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Re: SNATCHY RS 250
« Reply #18 on: July 31, 2016, 09:28:19 PM »
1980 Yamaha XT250
1985 Honda ATC200
1998 1200 Bandit
1978 Bultaco Sherpa project (not started)
1968 Kawasaki F3 175 Bushwhacker (project in progress)

xbally

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Re: SNATCHY RS 250
« Reply #19 on: August 01, 2016, 12:06:24 PM »
Thank you to all posters....still mulling over what to do!
HONDA CB250RSA ROYAL ENFIELD CONTINENTAL GT535

tevie54

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Re: SNATCHY RS 250
« Reply #20 on: August 01, 2016, 02:45:21 PM »
The CBX 250 rear wheel cush drive rubbers are also discontinued but luckily they are the wedge type so making rubbers strips and gluing them to the existing rubbers is a bit easier than the bush type cushions. Has anyone tried typing in the dimensions of the original ones into an engineering suppliers to see if something else uses a bush of this type.

xbally

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Re: SNATCHY RS 250
« Reply #21 on: August 18, 2016, 12:27:18 PM »
Update..........bike has this week passed its MOT so i now need to decide whether to live with this for another year or invest time and money to sort this irritating problem out...OR swap my bike for another XBR500!Still missing my old one which i part exchanged earlier in the year.Strangely i never found the XBR as snatchy as the RS250.
HONDA CB250RSA ROYAL ENFIELD CONTINENTAL GT535