A little research:
XBR500 (next post)
initial advance 8 degs
Full Advance 29 degs at 5000RPM
from the net:
XL600R
At idle (F mark aligned with index notch)
1983 models 6-degrees BTDC @ 1200 rpm
1984 and later models 11 -degrees BTDC @ 1300 rpm
At full advance 31 -degrees BTDC@ 4000 rpm
XR600R
1985 through 1987 models
At idle (F mark aligned with index notch) 11-degrees BTDC @ 1300 rpm
At full advance 31-degrees BTDC @ 4000 rpm
1988 and later models
At idle (F mark aligned with index notch) 6-degrees BTDC @ 1300 rpm
At full advance 31-degrees BTDC @ 3500 rpm
XR650L
At idle (F mark aligned with index notch) 8-degrees BTDC @ 1300 rpm
At full advance 28-degrees BTDC @ 4000 rpm
XR650R
At idle (F mark aligned with index notch) 6-degrees BTDC @ 1300 rpm
At full advance 31 -degrees BTDC@ 3500 rpm
GB500
I found this here:
http://www.hondagb500.com/index.php?option=com_fireboard&func=view&catid=8&id=890&Itemid=81#890The GB500 cdi box has a 5 deg idle and a 21 deg full advance. I've read that Honda did this as the GB500 was built to Europeon specifications. The 21 deg advance was due to the 8.9 to 1 compression ratio and the low octane Europeon gas. The idea was to
avoid detonation. I had read where some people had tried to install the XR600R cdi box in the GB500, but when they pressed the starter button the starter relay 10 amp fuse would blow. I've solved this problem and now have an electric starting GB500 with an XR600R cdi box with 6/31 deg advance.
In the 4 pin cdi box harness plug remove the G/W wire and slip a short piece of small diameter tight fitting plastic tubing over the bare end to protect it from shorting out. Move it out of the way as it is no longer used. The pins are removed by sticking a straight pin down the side of the harness pin to release the hook.
The only thing I can tell that this wire (G/W) does is kill the motor if you try to put it in gear with the side stand down. You still get the side stand is down light, but the engine will not quit if you put it in gear. No big deal I can live without that.
Next, swap the 2 pin cdi box harness plug BL/W and BL/R wires. They are the wires in the 2 pin plug.
I purchased an after market cdi box for an xr600r. http://www.powersportsuperstore.com/Ricks-Motorsport-Electric-CDI-Boxes-15-601-p/4078330.htm?CartID=1
for only $40. They have great prices on other things too.
After making the wire changes to the harness the new cdi box correctly plugs right in.
It has an 8,500 rpm red line, a more aggresive advance curve
and has some double circuitry for better reliability. Of course it has the 6/31 deg advance.
I put it all together and to my absolute amazement it fired right up and runs great! It seems to rev up more quickly and
doesn't cause any detonation so far on low octane fuel.
I also rejetted the stock carb. I now have a 150 main jet, a 50 slow jet, 1 1/2 turns out on the screw for best idle.
I also added a .002 inch thick shim under the needle. I also drilled out the vacuum hole on the bottom of the carb slide to 1/8th inch. This is supposed to make the carb more responsive at full openings. I read about this on several blogs about xr600's. (I ride from 5,000 to 10,000 altitude)
All of this seems especially to have helped the mid range. It pulls hard and runs clean from low rpms when opening the throttle full. It just accelerates great and doesn't bog down. I think I've got the jetting about right.
The jetting and cdi box change have made a noticeable performance
difference and was worth doing. I use low octane fuel. No detonation.
I don't have the XBR handbook or FSM to hand so maybe someone can check the specs and the minimum recommended octane rating. My experience was more advance and a good fat spark gave a very noticeable improvement.