Carb Woes

[guest1406]

I have a Suzuki GN250 with a 300 kit using a Mikuni TMX38 in a Suzuki Van Van frame, I used it once running a little rough for around 120 miles, then took the tank off for paint and put it all together again. After reassembly the carb started backfiring, the bike was revving high on its own accord and taking an age to re-idle after being revved. Just running really dog.

Having given up on the Mikuni TMX38 due to the engine inlet being 34mm, I bought a used Lectron carb and gave it a clean and rebuild. I have just this second put it on for around 10 seconds (completely untuned) and it idled Ok! However petrol was peeing everywhere because the fuel tap and carb has a very different fuel hose diameter and I had to bodge it. It was also squirting petrol heavily through the breather for some reason

So does anyone know how I can get a fuel hose to fit both fuel tap and carb's different fuel hose diameter?

Also I have a small inkling that may aid in carb issues, the fuel tap and carb are almost level with a distorted fuel hose route. So I am thinking the carb is not getting a clear feed of petrol?

I cant do much at the moment untill i can get a fuel hose that has a constant flow to the carb and that fits both endings.

I'll report back when I get a hose!

Mackenzie

[guest1406]

Trying to upload pictures of the bike but images are too large, I'll sort it out.

Mackenzie

[guest1406]

Cant figure out how to downsize the data on my pictures to post them up.

Updates on the fuel pipe - Think i was being a bit dramatic. I just bought some good thickness 7mm I/D fuel pipe and put mini jubilee clips over each end. Stopped that leak

As for the squirting out of the breather - I had it apart and saw that the rubber on the needle valve was destroyed and it had no float valve clip to raise the floats. So I took the needle valve and clip from the TMX and put that on the Lectron. Still pouring out of the breather. As the bowl is clear i can see the floats are not lifting.

After getting the ump I walked the dog, and I thought that there is still too much fuel passing the needle and needle seat valve so maybe an O-Ring under the seat valve would be needed to make it airtight. Looked at the exploded diagram and yep, it needs an O-Ring.

Ill try it tomorrow morning before work.

Im also a little unsure of the positioning that the needle valve and float arm should be sitting at.

Mackenzie