Fitting tapered head bearings to SRX

[Nathan]

Okay my questions are....

How do I remove the old bearing runners that sit in the head of the frame?
and how do the new tapered ones sit in place?
and which way round do i put them in?

I was off the opinion when i stripped the frame that the runners that are in the frame didnt come out. (not that i tried)

Nathan

[Steve H]

If it is fitted with the original bearings them removing the races from the frame is a simple case of using suitable drift through the headstock onto the back of the races to drive them out. If it has tapers already fitted then it will be impossible to get a drifft onto the edge of the race, in the past I've welded a bit of scrap steel to the race and used that to drive it out.
Most people wouldnt approve of my fitting technique so I'll let someone else respond

[guest27]

Guess my fitting technique must be the same - block of hard wood and a hammer - working around the bearing so as not to warp it, crack It, drive it in out of true.

The wide end of the outer race goes in first - else there will be a hole smaller than the bearing when it is in - an embarrassing thing to achieve.

R

[bullet350]

the easiest way to fit the bearings is a small block of wood and a heavy hammer. plenty of small taps on the wood on opposite sides. you must be reasonably accurate with the hammer, if the bearing 'turns' you may stretch the metal of the head tube and end up with an oval hole.
if you prefer a more 'delicate' approach get the fattest threaded rod you can and pass it down the centre of the head. then put a plate at each end and solwly tighten, fitting one bearing at a time.
provided your not a compete animal the hammer and block approach is simple and quick.

when removing the bearings, try to get them to come out parallel with the head tube, or again you may bugger the part of the frame where the bearing sits. lots of small taps on opposite sides.

bullet350

[peterj]

They will go in a bit easier if you pop the races in the freezer for a couple of hours before fitting (the ones in the frame that is), and put a smear of grease around the hole before you start drifting.

The race on the bottom of the triple clamp can be a problem also. I usually remove by genlty grinding it down until it splits.

I haven't tried it, but if you are worried about getting them out again you could maybe make three notches in the headstock with a dremel to allow access to the back of the race.

[guest7]

That reminds me, the last time I did a set of XBR wheel bearings I modified the spacer tube so that it you could, next time, get a drift onto the back of the bearings to get the sods out. Why Honda can't do that is beyond me... oh yes, we aren't supposed to work on our bikes are we.

GC

[Nathan]

oh yes, we aren't supposed to work on our bikes are we.
GC

I think thats why on the SRX the bolts that hold the carb in place are hidden behind a small unecessary plate just big enough to stop allen keys going in true to the hole.

Cheers for the tips guys...

[Nathan]

The race on the bottom of the triple clamp can be a problem also. I usually remove by genlty grinding it down until it splits.

I

Okay, I only have a bench grinder, and I cant get it close enough without causing damage to other areas.

any further ideas on this?

Nathan

[peterj]

You could get a bearing puller, but a cheap angle grinder is probably cheaper and more fun/useful to own.

[bullet350]

have a pop at the bearing runner with a hacksaw cutting  downward, getting as close to the upright steerer tube as you can. then with a file remove the last 1/8" to make the runner C shaped, looking from above.

   bullet350

[Nathan]

Saw wasnt thats effective on the race.
In the end i just knocked it off using the drift.

Which was nice, as i dont have the money for a cheap grinder :-(