I've drained the oil and am awaiting filter etc from David Silver. Also checked the tappets which were fine. But I think I've found the source of the noise (apart from the silencer). The exhaust gaskets were squashed flat and the whole lot plastered with gun gum or similar. Bodge number 1 discovered...
The silencer as I expected is empty but this is in the exhaust going into it:
I don't know whether it's fixed as part of the exhaust or not.
These are the VF400 bars which have a couple of inches rise and pull back a similar amount as the XBR ones are in front of the stanchions:
A quick coat of Tetrosyl wheel silver should have them looking tidy but it'll be a while before I need to look at them. Still on the hunt for a CX tank.
I suspect my plan of swapping gear lever / brake sides will be very tricky as there don't seem to be any convenient gaps to install crossover shafts. I do have a cunning plan for potentially lowering the footrests however if it proves necessary.