Aye Ron, pleased that you were able to control the bike, with the rapid deflation of the rear tyre.
Last time that happened to us, Kat and I were two-up on the Funduro going into a 25mph right-angled corner over a bridge, with large stone parapets on either side. Was using a Michelin tube inside a Tourance tyre. Lock to lock in the space of 30 metres and only used the rear brake to stop. Friend behind on a Z900 had kittens!

The tube had failed on a moulding seam and then come out the side of the tyre, as that popped off the rim and the tube wrapped itself in the wheel spokes.
I always use Avon, Michelin or Continental inner tubes, I do not trust Chinese or other offerings.
The convex shaped area at the base of the valve stem
MUST be seated in the bottom of the wheel rim, or else you run the risk of tearing the valve stem from the tube. Especially, if you are running low tyre pressures for off-road use or keeping race tyres warm on cold, wet tracks. If two nuts are supplied, either both can be threaded onto the valve stem when the tube is inserted into the tyre and around the rim, before seating the second tyre bead onto the rim, or a single nut. Once the tyre is correctly aligned with the valve stem (coloured dot on tyre wall), seated and inflated to the desired working pressure, a nut is tightened against the outer side of the rim. I do this finger tight and then a nip (some nuts are hex, others are knurled only). The second nut can either be used as a lock-nut against the first valve stem nut, or the valve cap, or omitted altogether; your choice.
In my view, any nuts threaded onto the valve stem between the rim and the tube are a potential fatal fitting error! 
Good health, Bill