XBR500 chain adjustment

[guest1818]

This should be an easy job but the swingarm on my XBR is powder coated so the "index marks" aren't visible. I've aligned the wheel by setting the adjustment marks equal to the end of the swingarm of both sides. Is this likely to be ok or could machining/welding tolerances make the lengths of each side of the swingarm different? I'm guessing Honda wouldn't go to the trouble of stamping marks on the swingarm for nothing.

[chris22]

My XBRs have the chain adjustment index marks on the chromed adjuster/tensioners, not on the swinging arm. I align the marks with the end of the swinging arm so there are the same number of index marks against that point on both sides.

[guest1818]

Thanks. So I'm fine then.

Most other bikes I've had have had punched marks in the side of the swing arm to align to so I wasn't sure if these were just not visible due to the thickness of the powder coating.

Cheers for your help. 

[themoudie]

Aye mick0905,

Slacken off the chain adjusters to their full extent, with the rear axle hard against the inner end of the swinging arm forks. Then tighten both nuts alternately until there is no slack in the adjuster threads, with the axle still resting on the back of the forks. Now turn each adjuster nut by 10 flats and continue alternating between the nuts with equal number of turns, until you achieve the correct tension on the chain. The pitch of the thread is constant, so as long as you start from a common position and turn the nuts by the same number of turns, you should draw the axle backwards evenly.

To check, take 2 un-warped 4" x 2" wooden battens/peices of alloy or box section steel, long enough to extend from beyond the rear wheel to beyond the contact point of the front tyre with the ground. Drill 2 holes through so that 2 coach bolts with wing nuts [or similar], will hold the battens against the rear tyre. Providing the battens are true, gripping the rear tyre either side of the rear axle and you have tightened the chain adjusters equally, the distance between the front tyre sidewall and the battens at the front should be equidistant.

Sorry for the ramble, but hope it helps.

My regards, Bill.

[guest1818]

Aye mick0905,

Slacken off the chain adjusters to their full extent, with the rear axle hard against the inner end of the swinging arm forks. Then tighten both nuts alternately until there is no slack in the adjuster threads, with the axle still resting on the back of the forks. Now turn each adjuster nut by 10 flats and continue alternating between the nuts with equal number of turns, until you achieve the correct tension on the chain. The pitch of the thread is constant, so as long as you start from a common position and turn the nuts by the same number of turns, you should draw the axle backwards evenly.

To check, take 2 un-warped 4" x 2" wooden battens/peices of alloy or box section steel, long enough to extend from beyond the rear wheel to beyond the contact point of the front tyre with the ground. Drill 2 holes through so that 2 coach bolts with wing nuts [or similar], will hold the battens against the rear tyre. Providing the battens are true, gripping the rear tyre either side of the rear axle and you have tightened the chain adjusters equally, the distance between the front tyre sidewall and the battens at the front should be equidistant.

Sorry for the ramble, but hope it helps.

My regards, Bill.

Thanks for taking the time to post all that! 

[themoudie]

Nae bother mick0905,
It's one of the useful things about a forum, although it may be 'Old hat' to others and you can serach for it in a few years time! 

My regards, Bill.