Author Topic: XBR500 cylinder head crack  (Read 1390 times)

Danny

  • Guest
XBR500 cylinder head crack
« on: May 25, 2007, 05:38:14 AM »
Hi,
  I have a spare engine with a cracked head between the exhaust and the spark plug. Can this be fixed.
I have also heard of a mod where the spark plug hole is reduced to fit slim spark plugs and to make the head stronger.
Not sure who does this work or if it can be done to a cracked head.

GB500nz

  • Guest
Re: XBR500 cylinder head crack
« Reply #1 on: May 25, 2007, 09:54:28 AM »
I don't know if it's true or not, but I've read that the cracks are more common than we think, and generally harmless. I really doubt that it can be welded up by anyone other than a real expert in the craft, but there are places that specialise in car head welding.

Jez F

  • Guest
Re: XBR500 cylinder head crack
« Reply #2 on: May 25, 2007, 12:46:59 PM »
It is possible to weld up just depends where it is, do you mean between the exhaust valve and the plug? You could get a bronze insert made up for the plug by someone who knows what they are doing.

themoudie

  • Full Member
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  • Posts: 4755
Re: XBR500 cylinder head crack
« Reply #3 on: May 25, 2007, 03:06:01 PM »
Aye Danny,

Concensus amongst many of the XBR school on this site is "run it" despite cracks. However, I shall leave it to the likes of GC, 002, Smudge and 003 to reply in their own inimitable styles! Naff spelling I suspect.

Have a chilled weekend, Bill

guest7

  • Guest
Re: XBR500 cylinder head crack
« Reply #4 on: May 27, 2007, 09:47:30 AM »
I have two engines here that run well despite the cracks.

A mechanic I know (a bit of a local guru) told me to forget about it and run the engine as is. "They all f***ing do that" was his blunt assessment. And he was right.

In fact, the picture of the outfit to the left shows that the engine works well enough to drag me to France and to engage in silly riding outside Le Bar.

Cheers
GC

002

  • Posts: 1786
  • Stalwart(TM)
Re: XBR500 cylinder head crack
« Reply #5 on: May 27, 2007, 09:49:12 PM »
Run It !

Fix it when/if it breaks......

Jethro
Cooey
Martini-Greener GP
Lee Enfield
ELG

bikeseamus

  • Guest
Re: XBR500 cylinder head crack
« Reply #6 on: May 28, 2007, 01:07:07 PM »
  I also vote for running it as it is, and will add that an oil cooler is known to help that engine stay together and run cooler.
      They had cooling problems, and anything you can do to keep it cool is a good thing and may preclude further deeper and more catastrophic cracking. A bronze insert for the plug is also a good idea and will work.
   Like in everything, the process of welding or inserting a sleeve is never better than the person who conducts the work.
      Some people can break an anvil in two seconds, others can repair clocks with one hand while telling animated jokes while playing a video game and speaking on the telephone, and beat the shop flat rate time in half.
   Use judgement when choosing a mechanic.  If others brag about them, and take home the big trophies because of his masterful work.... and his machines don't break.... choose him.  As you know, talk is cheap.  The machines you work on will be out there speaking the most direct truth in the Motoworld. If you build winners, the machines do all the bragging for you.

guest27

  • Guest
Re: XBR500 cylinder head crack
« Reply #7 on: May 28, 2007, 04:31:41 PM »
Oil coolers...  Fit on return line.  But do you need a pressure relief to the tank in case the cooler blocks or not?  Ditto thermostats?

R

bikeseamus

  • Guest
Re: XBR500 cylinder head crack
« Reply #8 on: May 29, 2007, 12:34:35 PM »
Rog

   You can monitor the oil temperature with an oven thermometer, readily available at your better kitchen supply outlets.

 A small one with about a 1" face will do, and about a 6" needle on it. It should read to about 220 degrees F.   Put it in the filler cap after drilling a hole through it... make a tight fit.... rotate it to your liking for easy reading, then epoxy or JB Weld it into place.
                  I have never seen an oil cooler block up, but be sure and flush it out before you use it.  Any mild solvent will do it.  I assume a guy like you will change the oil in his bike.   Also, drill out your drain plug and install a powerful magnet on it.

  Should you really want to do it right, epoxy and or wire or clamp or whatever a very strong magnet on the end of your oven thermomketer, too.
                                          Oil filters may require a particle of 8 microns or more in diameter to actually filter, but a magnet will grab one molecule of any ferrous composition. That's SMALL.  I have extended the life of many many old machines with this simple trick. You cannot grab non ferrous particles with a magnet, but it sure does help keep the oil clean and extend engine life because you are not circulating small ferrous particles around your precious bearings and cylinder and clutch and the formulation of sludge is much slower.             Sludge is the enemy of happy motoring.

  My friend who develops oil tells me that if you see your oil temperature rise much over 220 degrees F you are in for trouble sooner or later, and if it is much below 190 Degrees F, glazing will ensue.

   So shoot for the sweet spot between those Temps, and get those ferrous particles out of your oil as fast as you can.

  I have installed inline petcocks on my oil lines to stop circulation when it is very cold out so as not to glaze up the innards of my precious engines.  Watching your oil temperature is always a smart thing to do.

   I have seen oil line thermostats fail, and have lost faith in them because I can just do it myself with petcocks and an oil temp guage..... but that is my personal preference.

  Keep in mind that we are primarily concerned here with air cooled engines.  Liquid cooled bikes are a good idea, but I love the antiques and will always ride them. My old dry sump bikes are all loaded with magnets everywhere, and especially if they have iron bores. Old cars are the same and will benefit greatly as well.   Way smart, way cheap.

  The magnets removed from any 70s or 80s onward vintage Yamaha with shaft drive will go directly into XT,SR,SRX and TT crankcases.  The magnetic drain plug in the bottom of the ring/pinion/rear end is the part you need.

   These mods have no down sides that I am aware of.     That is rare in the mechanical world.         Happy motoring.             

MrFluffy

  • Guest
Re: XBR500 cylinder head crack
« Reply #9 on: May 29, 2007, 08:12:31 PM »
That mag drain plug from a shaftie fitting the singles is a great tip seamus, thanks for sharing it!

peterj

  • Guest
Re: XBR500 cylinder head crack
« Reply #10 on: May 30, 2007, 09:15:47 AM »
Excellent tips from bikeseamus. If you do the temp gauge one though, I'd suggest calibrating it in a pan of boiling water. Luckily water boils just in the right range to be sure your new gauge isn't telling porkies at the interesting bit.

andy230

  • Posts: 1322
Re: XBR500 cylinder head crack
« Reply #11 on: May 30, 2007, 10:24:13 AM »
Excellent tips from bikeseamus. If you do the temp gauge one though, I'd suggest calibrating it in a pan of boiling water. Luckily water boils just in the right range to be sure your new gauge isn't telling porkies at the interesting bit.


Haven't tested mine (used in the 620 racer), but dont trust it:

with oil cooler after a few laps it sits at 120-130. 

Taking the oil cooler off (on a slightly cooler, wet day) it read 140...  Unlikely??!

And I know guys who raced SRX motors with NO oil cooler.  For 10 years.  And they still run good!!  So calibration is a good idea.  I checked mine in an incubator at work, it was spot on 37 degrees.....  But may be duff at extremes?

a


peterj

  • Guest
Re: XBR500 cylinder head crack
« Reply #12 on: June 03, 2007, 09:27:22 AM »
The one on my SRX lost all legibility of scale many years ago. I use it for two things - first I know where the needle usually points, so if it ever starts pointing much higher I'll investigate. Second, when it starts pointing cooler on a long run I know that the oil level is now off the (shorter than stock) dipstick and needs topping up next fuel stop.

bikeseamus

  • Guest
Re: XBR500 cylinder head crack
« Reply #13 on: June 03, 2007, 10:49:03 AM »
      I don't know about guage qualities available in the UK, but the quality of the temperature guages here is strange.  The guages available from kitchen supply outlets are of infinitely higher quality than the ones available for monitoring oil temperature, with the exception of the Harley Davidson unit.
                                                              The Harley unit is of very high quality, but comes imbedded in a rubber sleeve suitable for that bike only, and is very expensive.  I have yet to use a guage from a kitchen supply outlet that fogged up, was inaccurate, or failed, while I have seen countless motorcycle units fail, and often in ways I wouldn't think possible.

   The guages I have used for the last 40 years have a 1" face and a needle about 6" long, and cost about ten bucks.

    Chefs use them in high quality restaurants to monitor accurate cooking, and anyone who has ever tangled with a gourmet chef knows that an inaccurate guage would probably be answered with a meat cleaver to the forehead.

   I guess that's why they are so accurate.        Motorcyclists are easier to get along with, more forgiving, and will simply pitch a failed guage, bitch a little, and move on with their lives.
                                                                                            So cut to the chase and get the good guage to begin with.  As for magnets, auto supply stores here sell magnetic retrieving tools that are mounted on telescoping rods very much like the old car antennas. These magnets are very powerful, and will pick up a 1/2" ratchet or a small crankshaft that has rolled under your bench.  Detach that magnet and reattach it to your old dipstick, whether you have an Enfield (motorcycle) Norton, Triumph, BSA,Harley, Indian...etc.....etc.... into your oil tank, and every time you stop for gasoline, pull it out and you can see the microscopic ferrous particles you have pulled out of your oilflow. A proper wearing engine will generate these particles naturally, but flakes of any size spell trouble.  As the magnet is wiped, the particles should resemble black paint, and ideally should not be reflecting like glitter.  Another smart trick is to attach a donut shaped rare earth magnet to your external oil filter on your bike/car/boat/airplane/motorized uinicycle.... whatever, and transfer the magnet to the new filter when you service the machine.  The particles will be magnetically trapped in the filter, and will be gone.

  Automatic transmission shops and Hot Rod shops of high quality stock these magnets here...... across the pond, I am clueless, as always.
                                    Rog....... I grabbed for that beer my friend placed out of my reach, fell out of the "workshop/closet", have assumed a new name, and am slowly reintegrating back into the motoworld.... plastic surgery scheduled, but am wearing a clown mask until my beard grows out some more.

  More children wave at me on my bike now........ a cool deal.                The beer tasted good, too.