Author Topic: SRX600 Cylinder Head Removal  (Read 767 times)

guest1742

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SRX600 Cylinder Head Removal
« on: December 16, 2013, 12:32:16 AM »
I have just become an owner of a "Thumper" and I am glad to be here.
I have purchased an '85 SRX600 1JK with about 25k  kms on it.
It has a small oil leak it appears from the forward side of the head gasket.
I would like to remove the head and fit a new head gasket.

My question is; Is it possible to remove the cylinder head with the engine still in the frame?

When I get the cam cover off I will check the torque of the cyl. head bolts and nuts. If they are not up to spec. I may just re-torque them and see if that solves the problem.

Cheers from Vancouver Canada

Terry


SRXweb

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Re: SRX600 Cylinder Head Removal
« Reply #1 on: December 16, 2013, 10:36:47 AM »
Hello and welcome to the Family.

Are you sure it doesn't come from the GEAR UNIT ASSY of the tacho drive ?

You must remove the engine from the frame. Remove the tank and you will see there's not enough place.

See here : http://www.budohead.com/bikes.php?bike=600srx_5thgear I think you can find these pages in english.

The SRX is a good bike. Usual problems comes from electricity : generator, regulator or CDI. Check the break calipers too. You can find lots of informations on THE excellent Steve's web site : http://www.srx600.net/


« Last Edit: December 16, 2013, 10:51:58 AM by SRXweb »

Steve H

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Re: SRX600 Cylinder Head Removal
« Reply #2 on: December 16, 2013, 11:05:43 AM »
Although I have not tried it myself apparently it is possible to remove the rocker cover without removing the engine from the frame. However removing the engine will mean you have much better access to everything when re-assembling.  Assuming nothing is seized you should be able to get the engine out in about 3-4 hours.

andy230

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Re: SRX600 Cylinder Head Removal
« Reply #3 on: December 16, 2013, 02:16:27 PM »
I have removed the head with the engine still in the frame (1JK model).

A valve kissed the piston on the racer.  I tried it, and it worked!

So it is possible.  An additional benefit is that its easier to re-torque the head with the engine in the frame.

But you may have better access with the engine out.

Cheers

a




themoudie

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Re: SRX600 Cylinder Head Removal
« Reply #4 on: December 17, 2013, 01:07:14 AM »
Welcome Terry,

I agree with Andy230, taking the rocker cover off with the motor in the frame is no problem as is the removal of the head. The carbies, or to be more precise, their mounting rubbers are a real pain to move. Use 'ArmourAll' to lubricate the rubber on and off the stubs.

Make sure that you copper grease the exhaust studs well and use bronze nuts so that the whole lot comes apart without a fight. Replacing the studs can be a pain if they snap, but patience with 'PlusGas A', heat and Mole grips a tweak at a time can often work. If not, lefthand drills and a good centre punch afore starting to drill them out in a bench drill, well clamped to prevent any movement.

If you require a new head gasket, purchase a genuine Yamaha one from your local dealer or contact this man in the USA: Link: THUMPERSTUFF

Hope all goes well and have a grand Xmas etc. Good health.

My regards, Bill.

guest1742

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Re: SRX600 Cylinder Head Removal
« Reply #5 on: December 17, 2013, 09:28:54 PM »
Thanks for all the good advice!

Every reply contains some information that helps me a lot.

Regards

Terry

SRXweb

  • Posts: 406
Re: SRX600 Cylinder Head Removal
« Reply #6 on: December 18, 2013, 05:06:25 PM »
Sorry I didn't think there was enough place.

guest1742

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Re: SRX600 Cylinder Head Removal
« Reply #7 on: December 22, 2013, 06:33:56 PM »
An update on the oil leak at the cyl. head gasket area.

I was able to get the cam cover off without much trouble (I have both down tubes removed). In doing so I found the two long screws on the cam drive side were way less than the torque spec.

With the cam cover off I found the left forward head bolt was way less than spec as well. The other three head bolts were on spec.

I found the camshaft and followers to be in excellent condition, no visible wear and measuring well above the minimum on the

lobes. The cam journals looked very good.

It was a good chance to clean out the two little pools of oil that the cam lobes dip into with every revolution of the cam shaft.

I found the oil in the pools to be black and thick, as this oil never gets fully replaced with an oil change, and in such a critical location!

After finding the less than spec torque on the head fasteners I will leave the head in place and re-torque all six to spec.

With the engine in the frame one must get creative with measuring the torque values on the cam cover, lots of good ideas on the web.

As soon as the bank account recovers from the Christmas season I will be fitting a pair of Kiehin CR31 carbs. That will be fun.

Cheers

Terry