Rotax clutch

[OMEGAMAN]

  Am trying to help my mate, Simon, get his Rotax 600 supermono racer ready for Mallory on Sunday.
  After a practice on Wed. we found that the clutch is dragging all the time & although it is rideable, it will be a big problem when it comes to the start of the race (ie. clutch start).

  Anybody have any ideas as to what may be the problem/solution?.

 Also, we have almost no information on this engine etc.. so if anyone can help with specs/drawings/details/suppliers of parts.

(URGENT!)           call John  07930916509         thanks...............

[Steve H]

I dont know the engine, but my first checks would be
- check for warped steel clutch plates
- check the condition of the fingers on the clutch basket, if the surface that contacts with the clutch plates fingers is ribbed then this can cause the clutch to drag/slip generally be unpleasant.
- check adjustment of the actuating arm.

[guest27]

Is it the aircooled one or the water cooled one.  Also have you tried the Rotax man - he has been helpful to me in the past.

rotax257@aol.com also has a web site with his number on it - cannot remember address - he is in Bristol.

R

[OMEGAMAN]

It's air cooled!

Thanks for replies, will start working on it...........

[guest27]

TYhought I had better info than this but for what it is worth..

Clutch drive plate thickness.......2.4 - 2.6mm min 2.2
Driven plate............................1.5 +- 0.06mm
Driven plate distortion...............0 + 0.15mm max 0.25mm
Spring free length.....................34.1mm Min 32mm
Spring rate..............................15.9N/min
Radial clearance clutch roller bearings Min 0.003mm Max 0.032mm
Rotational play between slots of clutch drum and friction plate area.. Min 0.1mm Max 0.4mm
Rotational play between splines of clutch hub and driven plates  Min 0.15mm Max 0.25mm

Priamry drive backlash Min 0.06mm Max 0.094mm

Clutch shaft torque (M18X1.5mm) 120Nm

Apart from that I have an exploded diag of the clutch and part numbers..

May help

R

[guest207]

have you tried adjusting it? One of the plugs on the left hand side cover is for the actuator/cam and they are very very finicky on this part..My rotax was the same and very small adjustments seem to make a big difference...i cant properly remember now (5hrs sleep in 3days blunts memory) but I think when you unlock the locknut using a box spanner use a screwdriver up the middle..screw in till contact then back off very slightly..redo lock nut...after a couple of years no adjustment made any difference to mine, it just dragged so a complete clutch pack went in.
Hopefully this is some help.

the plates are a complete pain in the a*** to change as you have to remove cambelt and bottom pulley,so not a 5 minute clutch cover off job.

this link may help you with dissasembly i know its the sprag clutch assy but alot of the parts you take off are the same to get to clutch and it also has a lot of pics to help up on right hand side.
http://ccmriders.co.uk/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=36&Itemid=21

[guest7]

Interesting one this. Jethro once owned an aircooled Rotax-engined MZ (Sazon Tour). In a fit of guilt, after trying to kill me in his sidecar, he leant me the bike for my commute.

The clutch was always bloody dragging on it and I seem to remember that Jethro couldn't cure it. It was the only vice on an otherwise very nice little bike.

Cheers
GC

[guest207]

Interesting one this. Jethro once owned an aircooled Rotax-engined MZ (Sazon Tour). In a fit of guilt, after trying to kill me in his sidecar, he leant me the bike for my commute.

The clutch was always bloody dragging on it and I seem to remember that Jethro couldn't cure it. It was the only vice on an otherwise very nice little bike.

Cheers
GC

since the clutch pack went in early this year with H/D springs its been spot on, so they can be sorted.