Thumper Club Forum
Technical => Recommended Services => Topic started by: Steve Lake on January 04, 2019, 08:09:57 AM
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Now... i've not used this myself (yet), but i know a man who has.... and he reckons it's streets ahead of petseal.....
I shall be using it in the near future.
https://www.frost.co.uk/brands/por15/por15-motorcycle-fuel-tank-repair-kit.html
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yep, ive used por15 many times and its never let me down, does exactly what it says on the tin. best advice is to get thee full kit with thee cleaner and primer rather than just the sealer, then take your time doing it, i left thee cleaner in there for a week, giving it a shake every time i passed it, and the sealer was done on a hot sunny day in the conservatory, it was hot and the temperature helped it to go off. i left it to stand for a week afterwards to fully cure and its been perfect since.
but, and i cant stress this enough, DO NOT use petseal, its terrible stuff, ive a tank on a bsa with petseal in that has failed and ive got to resort to acetone to strip it out of the inside. every tank ive had with petseal in has failed. the stuff just cant cope with modern ethanol rich fuel and the ethanol eventually degrades the liner till it flakes off in great chunks and cracks.
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I have heard that about petseal John. a friend with a Goldie (his absolute pride & joy, lives in the conservatory during the winter .... thats the bike, not my mate :-) )..... he'd drained the tank prior to a winter lay up, on refueling in the spring, he noticed all these slabs of jelly like substance swilling about..... de-laminated & rotten petseal.... as you say.... a hell of a job to remove it all
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Sadly not for Plastic tanks like the Skorpion - which suffers badly from ethanol.
I have been using POR15 for a while - strong stuff if tetchy to apply properly.
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Any hints or tips on a successful application would be welcome on here Richard...
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Follow the instructions, however much of a pita they may appear. Use the special degreaser, use the metal prep (it really makes a difference to adhesion).
The base coat is excellent stuff - but not UV resistant - so cover it with the top coat.
The only thing I can't seem to do is to get a tidy finish with the top coat using brushes - which is a shame as getting paint that is genuinely impervious to petrol is becoming very difficult for DIYers. Fortunately I mainly use it on MZs and have a healthy attitude to finish quality.
The stuff sticks well done properly whilst if you don't do ALL the stages people have reported it coming off in sheets.
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and take your time. i swilled my tank out first with boiling water and fairy liquid to remove petrol residue, then i dropped the chain and bolts in and put it inside a cement mixer drum to knock the rust off. when i used the tank cleaner i left it in for a week just to make sure it was proper clean, giving it a shake and swirl round every night, after that i did the same with the metal treatment. finally i waited for a real hot day to put the liner in, and it dried faster, then i left it a fortnight before putting fuel in it, i wasnt in any rush so it didnt matter.
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Sound advice. Did you use any liquid such as WD40 in with the nuts and bolts? Anyone had any joy with electrolysis and/or an acid treatment. A skinflint friend of mine (ok, me really) needs to know. Or is POR15 worth the £50?
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the electrolytic removal process works fine, but my triumph tank was heavily rusted, so i used a length of metal chain with nuts and bolts through alternate links. it works the same as a handfull of bolts, but the chain has more mass so knocks flakes of scale and rust off easier, and best of all, when youre done, cos its all together, you only need to hook one thing out of the tank, i use a magnet. i do it dry and then rinse out with water. doing it wet just makes a paste that can stop the surface from being cleaned hit by the chain.
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yes the por15 is worth it. even if you use electrolytic removal id still seal it with por15 cos modern petrol absorbs water and can cause problems in storage.
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Many thanks.
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johnr - my project CB200 tank recently had its pet******* bung TIG welded in and the original pet******* locating holes were MIG welded up. However, this latter weld is leaking. The guy who welded said the tank was thin metal and like Swiss cheese. He half expected it to leak and said to bring it back if it did for another go. Will the POR15 seal up the porous tank/weld if he can't improve it?
Just spotted this POR15 patch for the outside and wondered if you have ever had occasion to use it? Things are looking up!?
https://www.frost.co.uk/faq-3-step-por15-tank-repair-seal-tank-guide
https://www.frost.co.uk/por-15-por-patch-118ml.html
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yeah, its quite thick stuff and when the tank is coated fully, any residue will pool in the bottom of the tank anyhow. you usually get the little patch with the por15 so you can repair any holes in the structure, but ive never had cause to use it yet cos the sealant has always done the job.
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usually when you get por15, you get a small fabric patch that you can use to bridge gaps using the por15 itself as the adhesive/filler. ive never seen te por15 in a tube, so i think from your pic, you will be ok with the usual por15.
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Cheers for that, John. I'll be waiting for warmer weather before I get the sealant and will update here.
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Oxalic acid went in, but I may have got the dilution too weak as I was left with less rust, but a yellow, chalky residue - please see pic.
So I decided to go with the POR15 gospel according to johnr, chapter and verse, and forked out £50 quid on the kit, as above.
The tank is happily sitting in the conservatory with the degreaser and nuts on zip ties in. Speaking of the latter, I needed to cushion my lovely old tank and despite reaching out in every direction, could only lay my hands on the missus's dog walking coat. Well, she is still on holiday ;D
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OH! Mart, you dice with purgatory, yet again! :-X ;)
Happy de-greasing and don't spill it on the 'favourite' dog walking jacket, it could cost you more than the POR15 kit! ::)
Regards, Bill
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Sadly not for Plastic tanks like the Skorpion - which suffers badly from ethanol.
I have been using POR15 for a while - strong stuff if tetchy to apply properly.
Do I take it then you have lined your acerbis made Skorpion (PA6) tank with POR15? What the out come and how long has it been lined? Eric
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Well, my back is now killing me from shaking the tank. I flushed it through with hot water but found that if I wiped a finger along the inside, it came away covered in a rusty brown film. There's another degreasing solution left, but I'm going to err on the side of caution because my tank was so rusted to begin with. POR15 instructions state that , although the metal prep (next stage) dissolves fine surface rust, it is not a rust remover. So I set up the electolysis and am praying that I don't have a, "I have been producing hydrogen gas in our conservatory" look on my face, when SWMBO returns! Bill, I know you know what I'm talking about! :-[ ;D
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Aye Mart,
Go very canny with producing hydrogen in the conservatory! :o It might all go off with a BANG! Like a battery after charging and having a fag over the top of it.
My neighbours this morning tested a battery with one of those heavy duty battery testers that rely on short circuiting the 2 terminals of the battery (Durite 6/12 Volt 275a Heavy Duty Battery Tester). Luckily, nobody was hurt or burnt with acid, but the report of the explosion would have stoved a conservatories windows out. A wee spark was sufficient.
Holes in the 'favourite' dog walking jacket are unlikely to maintain 'harmony'. ;)
My regards, Bill
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Advice duly noted and dog walking jacket returned to its hook!
Have a look at the carp left on the scrap steel anode after 10 hours! I shall rinse out the tank for inspection...
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Oh I do admire a man that lives life on the edge..... what you clearly haven't factored into your cunning plan is...... is the wife's coat back on the very same hook from which it was removed?? AND is it hanging in exactly the same position as when she left?
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if theres a lot of rust dust in there, theen theres nothing wrong with swilling out with a bit of hot water and fairy liquid and then setting to with the next phase.
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Oh I do admire a man that lives life on the edge..... what you clearly haven't factored into your cunning plan is...... is the wife's coat back on the very same hook from which it was removed?? AND is it hanging in exactly the same position as when she left?
Valuable advice, my learned friend - I'm off to check this very second! I shall of course be employing the SOP of distraction/disinformation by "accidentally" smashing a plate in the kitchen and getting my hidden stash of empties from the garage and putting them in the indoor recycling bin. This should give her something to get her teeth into on her return, as squeaky clean would never be believed.....😜
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if theres a lot of rust dust in there, theen theres nothing wrong with swilling out with a bit of hot water and fairy liquid and then setting to with the next phase.
This is what I got out on the 3rd 10hr session - about the same volume each time on the anode, but no chunks coming out with the flush water. Perhaps I should keep going until it's a decreased amount on the anode? I don't really know what volume is acceptable, tbh. The only reference I remember said, depending on the state of the tank, anything from 24hrs to a week and the longer, the better.
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Still think I'd just cut the bottom of the tank out and get very busy with a wire brush and flapper disc. Then re-weld tank back together. Especially for a tank that's clearly as bad as the one you've got there Matt. 😥😥
Ps... I'm liking the stash of empties idea 🤘👍😉
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After 8, 10hr sessions of electrolysis, changing electrolyte and anode regularly, I was still pulling out the same amount of debris and wondering if I'd have any tank left to seal.
So in went POR15 - last half of degreaser, rinse, force dry with heat gun. Then Metal Prep etching solution for the specified 20mins, swilling it around continually. Then rinse and force dry, before getting the sealer in, rolling it around and draining off for specified 10mins, during which time I prepped and applied the exterior patch where the pinhole leak had been, just for good measure.
Even though the specification is 96hours curing time, I think I'll wait a couple of weeks, just in case any sealant pooled anywhere - I'm sure it'll take me at least that long to fibreglass the seat pan, so the tank needs to be on it's mounts for that anyway.
Wish me luck (as you wave me goodbye!) ;D
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Certainly be interested to see how your tank fairs Matt once it's completed. Given how bad it appears to have been to start with, if the sealer solution works I for one will be pretty impressed. Please keep us posted and best o luck 🤞🤞👍... cheers, Michael
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Will do compadre. The exterior repair, using the sealant and material patch supplied with the kit (but no mention of it in instructions ???) has already set rock hard, as have the drips hanging back into the tank off the filler neck. In retrospect, I think a judicious wipe with the sponge spatula might have cleaned this up, but again, no mention in the intructions to anticipate this for us novices. At present, a torchlit inspection shows a full coating of what looks like silver Hammerite smoothrite. Thanks for the good wishes. Me? I'm already looking for another tank in better nick!
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I have recently been using g a product called Patrox, all that was needed was a rinse through of the tank with a ferric oxide cleaner and then rinse out and dry. Apply the Patrox primer all round,, leave for 12hrs, then put in and swish around the Patrox sealer. You end up with a thin smooth guaranteed ethylene proof lining that does not reduce the tank capacity like the others.
Patrox products and the oxide cleaner or are on Ebay, check it out
I have just had a special Ducati 888 tank done with very good results.
Furry
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Good advice furry, I may just be looking up some of that product for my "tracker" tank.... cheers, Michael
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patrox? i cant find it on ebay, you dont mean tapox do you?
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Well it looks like the tracker tank is going to need some of that there POR15... fuel kind of bleeding every so slowly thro to the surface in one particular spot. Matt reading your bike build pots it would appear that it has worked on your CB200 tank which I would say looked a lot worse than mine. My question is as I'm under the cosh to get the bike built up for the Stafford show I really could do with getting the tank sprayed asap. So would I be able to seal it once it has been sprayed or would I risk ruining the paint job??.... any advice greatly appreciated 👍... cheers, Michael
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I'd have to say it would be way above my level of testicular fortitude! The etch solution is phosphoric acid and I'd hate to guess what a professional paint job costs :o :'(
Seal first and paint after for me.
The other way around, you might consider the POR patch kit, here;
https://www.por15.com/POR-15-Patch-Filler-and-Seam-Sealer
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Wowsers... now that looks like the toob o stuff I need. Many thanks for the link Matt 👍
Cheers..Michael
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Full blown por15 tank sealing kit ordered and winging it's way to me as I type... hopefully.
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ive just used another full kit of this to seal the tank on my bsa, yet again it worked faultlessly,
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Great news... I'm very hopeful reading all the positive comments that it will do the job on my tank as like I say it's not dripping through it's more a case of bleeding through. I get a damp patch (oo eerr vicar😁) in one part over about a week..... I'll let you know the results. Cheers, Michael