Thumper Club Forum
Technical => Bike Problems/Questions => Topic started by: Steve Lake on June 23, 2017, 10:58:05 AM
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She's been getting a bit shirty of late (bit like SWMBO), thankfully i've found the problem with #1, (one out of 2 can't be bad ;))
poor starting (has always started first or 2nd kick), backfiring on overrun, poor or no tickover.... blockage in fuel tap/filter, easily remedied (tap kit & new filters), and intake manifolds (or as yamaha like to call them 'joint carburetor 1'), unbonded, i.e. l/h one one completely separated.
So, out comes trusty microfiche, identify 1jk part number (for those of an inquisitive nature l/h 1jk-13586-01-00. r/h ijk-13596-01-00. the l/h unit has vacuum take off, hence different part numbers).
check with my (really great blokes) local yamaha dealer, numbers are superceded but thats not a problem, they always cross reference... £60 a pop!!!...
now, as it happens, i use i think, slightly different ones,( in that i think they are a tad shorter), and have the prefix 43F, as it turns out, that is the prefix for XT600 machines, the following number is the same and brings up 'joint carburetor 1' ... £68 a pop !!!
done the google/ebay/amazon stuff, nice cheap ones in Aus.... by the time i get them here... not cheap.
now... has anyone successfully repaired these?.. i know this is a fairly common issue, so some clever penny pincher in the club must have managed a fix (are you out there Andy ;) )
I'm thinking of heating up the metal part then pushing it back into the rubber sleeve to see if it bonds, or maybe one of the super glues about , like 'stiks like sh*t' or similar?...
all ideas greatfully received....
UNLESS ... anyone has some for sale ??
pip pip
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Well, i have tried the glue method, will have to wait 'til tomorrow to see if it's a go-er. in the meantime i spent lunchtime crawling over the interjungle, and came up with these helpful guys
http://www.nichecycle.com/ncs/categories/carburetor/flanges-adapters/101-0856-yamaha-xt-tt600-oe-style-left-side-carburetor-flange-43f-13586-01-00-by-ncs.html
a total of $51.05 shipped to my door... and that is for the PAIR .... oh, it did include a proper bloke to bloke conversation over the old fashioned blower to establish postal rates etc, and he helpfully pointed out they did the pair as a kit, rather than me buying each one seperately and paying more for them and more on the shipping.
£40... a saving of £80 on uk yamaha prices .... mind you, not got them yet... might be rubbish (i'm assured they arn't, as lots of their XT owning customers will testify)
i wonder if they stock SRX kickstart levers ... ho hum... just a thought
pip pip
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Good find - hope they fix your issues Steve.
I'm sure I have an article cut out of Classic Motorcycle Mechanics or some such magazine where they tested some sort of rubber renovation product. I seem to vaguely recall that it involved boiling the rubber in some sort of chemical to revitalise it, and then repairing with some sort of vulcanising stuff. I'll see if I can dig it out if I can, just for interest. Buying new at a good price is clearly a much better option though!
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Yes, I remember following the advice in an article about how to rejuvenate hardened rubber inlets. I think it involved wintergreen oil :-\
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Hi Steve, don't know if you were jesting in your posting but I still have a genuine SRX kickstart complete with new genuine Yamaha rubber and spring. I can also supply the detent ball bearing if needed. Pm me if interested.
Regards Ian
PS... Have you tried softening the rubber with brake fluid?
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thanks for that Ian, will be in touch about the lever...
It's not the flexibility of the rubber that is the issue, it's the fact that the metal insert has come away, so need to find a way of fixing back in. vulcanising, bonding etc....
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Steve, I am reliably informed that "JB Weld" will stick most materials. I have a similar problem so will be watching this thread with interest.
Ian
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I used a product called Q Bond to repair two sets of carbs, amongst other things. I was suitably impressed with the results. the whole story was posted on 28 Jan, 2015. Better to read it there as I cant remember all the details. Put in a search on this site for carb repair, and Timbo in the posted bit, and it should come straight up. Good luck ;)
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there you go ... I KNEW there'd be someone with info ,,,.... cheers guys ... will heck out all the suggestions and posts
as i've had to take the tank off it seemed like an opportune time to give it a respray, so all plastic is now removed as well, & #1 grandson is rubbing down filling and undercoating, (obviously this will cost me, as he's just finished skool, having completed his gcse's, so will be strapped for cash until he finds gainful summer employment :D )
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I repaired those manifolds successfully a good few years ago with stuff called Sikaflex. It's a permanently flexible black rubbery adhesive, if I remember correctly primarily used for marine applications.
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thanks for that, will check it out
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Aye Steve et al,
Sorry to miss this posting, been at the Bob Mac meeting at East Fortune all weekend! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Not only had both inlet stubbs completely separated on the project SRX, they had been stuck together using guttering asphalt mastic! :( You couldn't see the problem until the heat from the motor and the ethanol (petrol) caused the carbs to droop and the mastic to ooze from the splits! >:(
I would suggest that you give this man a call! Yambits.
Link: XT600E-inlet-manifold-carb-rubber-kit (http://yambits.co.uk/xt600e-inlet-manifold-carb-rubber-kit-p-7411.html)
Rapid service and of good quality!
If you have rubber parts that are becoming brittle/hard, soak them in ArmorAll for at least 24 hours, massaging the liquid into the item at least twice whilst soaking. Wipe off any excess after soaking and before fitting. You will notice the difference and have nice soft fingers for the missus as a bonus! ;)
If you want to try sticking detached rubber seals to the metal cores of the inlet stubs then Black Gorilla 'Snot' sealant takes some beating.
Another sealant/glue is CT1. This stuff comes in a range of colours from your local builders merchant and you could be surprised at what it is used for in holding your house together! :o Once cured it is very good. ;)
Link:CT1_info_sheet (http://www.ct1ltd.com/wp-content/uploads/bsk-pdf-manager/2016/11/ct1_product_info_sheet_10-03-2015.pdf)
Toodle pip, Bill
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Cheers Bill, i knew you'd arrive here at some point :D , will check out your proposals today, as you say, the heat and fuel these items are subjected to rules out most adhesives, but it'd be good to find something that works, i will then at least have a working pair in the spares mountain .
pip pip
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bu55er bu55er bu55er!!.... Bank holiday Monday, lovely day, fettled #1 ready to join #1 Son at the Fenman classic bike show, set off ... stopped to fill up with fresh petrol, headed west on the good old A47, snicked into 5th on the swaffham bypass, horrible noise and no drive.... dropped down to 3rd and came to a halt, obviously 5th had disintegrated.... bike would run in 2nd, so headed home at 10mph, expecting a lockup or complete grenade of cluster, but got home ok , so now i have a winter project.... will probably go for a complete strip down with attention to head and hone the bore with new rings etc .... just hope i can get gearbox parts ... judging from Bills previous posts.... it could get a bit pricey :-[
will miss the manx as well :(
pip bluddy pip
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Bu55er indeed, very bad luck. Hope it doesn't turn out to be too costly.
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Aye Steve,
Bu55er! :(
There was me listening to the ClassicTT and the Manx GP since last Saturday, with a slight tinge of green, thinking that you would be over, lapping it up! :-\ Instead you're shedding teeth and shrapnel all over the Swaffham by-pass. Not good. :(
Have a word with Martin at Slipstream if the crank needs attention and maybe a pair if 5th gears. I obtained my spares from Fowlers, genuine Yamaha, but mainshaft (input) 5th gear pinion (1VJ-17151-01) is now listed as unobtainable! :( Whilst, the layshaft (output) 5th gear wheel (2JT-17251-10) is obtainable on backorder at £74-62 + P&P + 20%VAT. Whereas, Kedo have both still available, at the time of writing, but priced in Euro that after conversion equal £96-83 (input) and £117-04 (output) respectively including VAT + P&P + VAT! :( :-X
These motors are no longer a 'cheap' option to repair once they go "Phut!".
XT600E motor now together and the assembling process of the Mono is starting as is the Duke 450. Drop us a PM if you wish and I hope you have something else on which to remove the cobwebs around the Norfolk "drifts". ;)
Good health. My regards, Bill
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Hi Bill, thanks for the info ...
Thinking 'outside the box' (i think that is the common parlance these days for what we know as 'use yer 'ead boy' ),
i have 4 srx400 motors in various states of disrepair, and am wondering if i can pillage the gears from one of them ... worth a look i think ...
Yes, pressing #1 Sons Morini 3 1/2 sport into service so's i have some wheels for a poodle round the lanes, organising mot as i type ...
oh, i also have the bottom end of an XT600 ... woner if that might provide the bits i need ... i know the gearing will be different, but can resolve that with a change of front and rear sprockets if required.
good to hear all your projects are 'coming along nicely' even if, as you say, one increasingly needs deeper & deeper pockets.
pip pip
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Aye Steve,
If you go to the Fowler's parts lists for SRX400 1985, both European and Japanese models have the same part numbers for both the pinion and the wheel gears and the pinion gears have a first 3 digits (1JK) part number.
The 1988 SRX400 both European and Japanese models have the same part numbers for both the pinion and the wheel gears. But the pinion gear has a different first 3 digits (2JT) from the 1985 model.
The 1986 and 1987 SRX600 European models have the same part numbers for both the pinion and the wheel gears. But the pinion gear has a different first 3 digits (1VJ) from the SRX400 models.
The 1986 XT600 European models have the same part numbers as the 1986 and 1987 SRX600 European models.
The 1994 XT600 European models however, have the same part numbers as the 1986 XT600 European models apart from the pinion gear first 3 digits (3YP).
The 1987 - 1990 XTZ600 Teneree has the same part numbers including the first 3 digits of the pinion gear, as the 1988 SRX400. The 1986 models has the same pinion gear part number first 3 digits (1VJ) as the 1986 - 1987 SRX600 models.
I think that you could use gears so long as you replace them in pairs, count the number of teeth and measure O.D. very carefully! ;)
Also be aware that replacement of the 5th gear wheel on the layshaft (output) requires a press to remove the 2nd gear wheel and then to replace it, as this retains the 5th gear wheel on the shaft. When pressing the 2nd gear wheel back onto the shaft the clearance between the gears is critical, as is the overall width of the gear cluster, which needs to be measured before dismantling and the 2nd gear can bind and the jump when being pressed onto the shaft, resulting in dismantling and starting again! >:( So, I entrusted mine to Slipstream. ;)
I hope this helps rather than befuddles (bit like Abbott! ;) )
Maybe a 400 motor would be OK? :-\ On second thoughts, NAH! :-X
My regards, Bill
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Bill .... i'm entering you into the next series of mastermind, specialist subject 'Yamaha SRX series of motorcycles 1985 to 1991'
thanks for the info, i shall strip out the 400's and see what might or might not work, failing that the XT600 bottom end i have loafing about somewhere, then it'll be the oldest trackbike which has a pukka srx600 motor in it.
pip pip
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(are you out there Andy ;) )
UNLESS ... anyone has some for sale ??
I am!! And I dont, but I did have, but they're away.
I bought a pair about 15 years ago (really?!?! Faaark!) And I remember them bring 45 quid each then....
But sounds like its all become a bit academic since then....
However, more recently I have used Wurth Bond n seal, and it would do nicely for this. Also yes, sikaflex, a friend of the plastic car owner!
Rebuild time steve? Always a good excuse to "improve", not that no1 needed it mind....
Good luck!
A
Ps talking of plastic cars, mine went to oz, and I "found" it recently for sale. Ye gods!!
http://www.justauto.com.au/justcars/cars-for-sale/1986-RELIANT-SCIMITAR-GTE-SE6-JCW4010762?backurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.justauto.com.au%2Fjustcars%2Fcars%2Freliant%2Fscimitar&backtext=Results
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Aye Andy,
Good to read the dulcit Weegie! ;) Trust you and yours in good fettle?
As for the "Plastic Sword" £15,532.03, seems not bad after purchase, shipping, carriage and refurbishment, with the exclusivity of being the sole example of it's type in Oz. Maybe, a couple of ES2's these days, or maybe half a rough M30! ::)
How is the strip down going Steve and what have you found lurking between the cases? :o
Good health.
My regards, Bill