Thumper Club Forum
Technical => Bike Problems/Questions => Topic started by: guest1334 on August 31, 2011, 01:38:14 PM
-
Hi,
I have an [edit] '85 SRX600 1JK import model, needs some TLC... would be grateful for any tips or hints on fork overhaul.
Going to give it ago myself, any gotchas to be aware of?
Need seals/dust cover, can anyone recommend a supplier, Pyramid Parts seem to do a kit, anyone used them?
Reading through forum more progressive springs seem to be the general recommendation, is it just a straightforward swap?
Seen Hagons for £80 a pair, again any good? Any other recommendations?
(This bike has the air valves for preloading)
Back shocks need replacing too, but that will be another topic I think...
thanks
Rafe
-
Rafe
I have used Pyramid Parts for seals in the past and had no trouble with them. The kit they do for front forks seems good value too esp as one dustcover off Mr Yamaha is probably the same price as their total kit!. Im hoping to purchase a set of front springs off Hagon, so I will be swimming in the same water as you as far as the springs are concerned, but have heard nothing detrimental said against Hagon products in general. I have a pair of second hand Hagon shocks on the back of my (hybrid) SRX400 and they improved the handling somewhat over the previous (anonymous)pair I had fitted. They are getting quite expensive tho now (approx £130 ish)
When disassembling the front forks you will probably need a tool of some description to hold the internal cylinder to stop it from turning when you undo the bottom socket head bolt that holds it in place. They are normal Yamaha front forks so if you cant get a workshop manual for the 600 then most forks of a similar era will give you the general lowdown on stripping and rebuilding the forks. I suggest you get a copy of the parts list which will give you an idea of how many parts there are involved in the front forks. You can get this off Steve Haywards SRX website (http://www.srx600.net). This will probably get you started but there are enough people on here with SRX s to keep you from getting into too much trouble.
Hope this helps
Ian :)
-
Aye Rafe,
Pyramid seals, not had any problems.
Progressive Fork springs fitted with 10w fork oil, fine for me. ;) Others use Hagon, with no problems.
Hagon rear shocks used to be good, but I did trash a pair in a year on the back of the Duke! :( Have a pair of Konis on the back of Sally [SRX 600] at present [non-adjustable damping and quite soft springing], which are good and rebuildable.
Tool as described by ian650, definitely makes life much easier when trying to undo the bottom allan bolt:
'T' handle 400mm x 16mm round bar m/s + shaft 600mm x 16mm round bar m/s + 22mm hex head H/T bolt with the thread sawn off, if required [Overall length ~730mm, could be 750mm if you wish]. All stuck together with some weld, as per image attached. Should be self explanatory, I think. :) Plenty of leverage, if required, a strong enough to take a 'bit of stick'! Airgun helps as well, if you have such luxuries! ;D
As Ian says, SRX600 manual available or the Clymer XT600/TT600 does fine and SteveH's site for the parts lists.
Measure the volume of fork oil when refilling the forks and measure the level from the top of the fork tube as well [just to make sure! ;)].
I hope this helps.
My regards, Bill.
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
I use 15 grade oil (and my forks have the wonderful schraeder valve at the top, so i pressurise to 12 psi) the pressure will only be retained if the seals and sliders are in top nick.
on advice from some expert SRX specialists i fill oil up to 125mm from top of staunchion (with fork fully extended, i.e. block under engine and front wheel off the ground)
not currently using progressive springs.
never had any problems with this setting.
-
Thanks Ian and Bill,
Pyramid seals here waiting for install (SWMBO has made it clear bathroom redecoration has priority...)
Seen SteveH website, been looking at that and Thumper club site for a couple of years on and off, persuading myself to get back into biking.
Hoping to get that tool made up, a friend has a contact, welding is something I have never tried. No air tools I'm afraid, don't even have a shed nor the £40 a week for a garage around here, so will be working in the street (hoping to get a garage share sorted for the winter). SWMBO on first seeing the bike said "it's not coming in the house!" but should be able to get bits in.
Have a copy of the manual, downloaded via a link found on this site, pdf of a photocopy by the look of it, some of it a bit blurry - is there a better one out there without buying the Yamaha one? Have a pdf copy of the owners manual which is useful too
Thanks SteveL - interesting info, nothing about the fork valves in the manual I have, is it just the caps that are different or is there differences in the rest of the fork assembly?
Bit worried about what I might find when I get these forks apart - dust caps look fairly new so suspect a recent seal/cap change, but something wrong somewhere....
regards
Rafe
-
Thanks SteveL - interesting info, nothing about the fork valves in the manual I have, is it just the caps that are different or is there differences in the rest of the fork assembly?
I suspect the manual you have is for the American model (599cc) The air forks were only fitted to the home market SRX (1JK) so you wont see them in the manual. From memory the threads on the caps are different so its not possible to use the caps on the 1XL fork legs, other than that I believe they are the same.
-
Managed to get one fork cap off, other is being a right sod - not going to be able re-use it thats for sure.
1JK model so cap with valve, no luck in tracking one down today, cant even find a part number - anyone have a source for replacements?
Or one sitting in a tool box by any chance...
regards
Rafe
-
Part number for 1JK model is 1JK-23111-00 (Cap Threaded for air valve)
Any half decent Yamaha dealer will be able to get you the part from a part number. Cost unknown!
You really need the correct size socket to get these off without damaging but sometimes time does have an effect ie they get catalytic corrosion with the steel/aluminium alloy.
HTH Ian :)
-
Thanks Ian, part number will make things easier - now just have to find a half decent dealer.
I was using a six sided 19mm socket which seemed to be the best fit, I'm blaming previous damage...
regards
Rafe
-
:o ::)
-
Part number 1JK-23111-00 is discontinued, haven't been able to find one in stock or on line anywhere so far. Seems to be a unique part not used on any other models.
Ian can you confirm the 1JK inner fork tube number is 1JK-23110-00? Time to do a bit of cross referencing on Yamaha parts...
thanks
Rafe
-
Ian, Bill had that fork tool made up - cost about £3 for bolt and rod, and a fiver to be welded up on the spot at the metal stockholders.
Worked a treat! (Available for loan to anyone around the Brighton area)
Can anyone let me have a copy of the workshop manual that covers the 1JK model please? (Beer vouchers available of course)
I've just measured the spring length at 477mm, manual I have refers to "Fork Spring Free Length (Limit):494 mm (19.5 in)".
So does that mean I'm 17mm under - down to wear?, or maybe wrong springs have been fitted? Theres no identifcation marks :-\
regards
Rafe
-
Aye Rafe,
Pleased to read that the tool was a success.
If you care to send me your email address via the PM facility on this site, I'll send a copy of the manual I use as an attachment to a message.
As for your spring length, I think that you have a pair of worn out springs, they have lost their compressive strength! :( A new pair from either Hagon or Progressive Springs with good seals and new oil should prove a revelation. ;D You might also consider the replacement of the whole of the front end with something a bit more uptodate FZR400RR! But that can involve a lot more money and phaffing than new springs! ;)
My regards, Bill.
-
Part number 1JK-23111-00 is discontinued, haven't been able to find one in stock or on line anywhere so far. Seems to be a unique part not used on any other models.
Ian can you confirm the 1JK inner fork tube number is 1JK-23110-00? Time to do a bit of cross referencing on Yamaha parts...
thanks
Rafe
If you PM me your address I have a spare fork cap with valve you can have.
Steve
-
Rafe
I think the free length of the fork springs is 475.5 m/m (18.7") which would tie up with your springs
Steve confirm I have the correct info please! (taken off the SRX400 site)
Ian ???
(Inner fork tube number is correct)
-
Aye Rafe,
The data within inverted commas below, is copied directly from SteveH's SRX600 website tech specs. You will note that the lesser 'Spring Free Length' is the minimum dimension of Yamaha's 'acceptable' range. Hence my comment in my previous post about a new set of springs.
"Chassis Component
Front Suspension Range Limit
Bearing type Ball Bearing
Total Travel 140mm 5.5in
Spring Free Length 480.5mm 18.9in 475.5mm 18.7in
Collar Length 70 mm 2.8in
Spring Rate Stage 1 7.85N/mm 44.8lb/in
Spring Stroke Stage 1 0-83 mm 0-3.27in
Spring Rate Stage 2 10.8 N/mm 61.6lb/in
Spring Stroke Stage 2 83-140 mm 3.27-5.51in
Oil Capacity 321 cm' 10.9 US oz
Oil Level 137 mm 5.4in
Oil Grade Fork oil 1OWt
Note: Oil level measured from top of inner tube fully compressed without spring"
You'll also have read that SteveL prefers 15w fork oil, from the 'standard' 10w, which is the viscosity that I use. I have also checked the length of the 'Progressive' springs that I have fitted and these are part number 11-1128, which have the following spec:
Order No. Free Length - In. Free Length - MM O.D. - In. O.D. - MM. Rates lbs/in Rates kg/mm Spacer mm
11-1128 19.75 502 1.14 29 30/45 .54/.80 10.00
As you can see this is not 'standard' but the spring recommended by Progressive.
Hagon quote their following part number: 400-192-01- 400-192-01 YAMAHA SRX 600 (1 XM/XL) 85-89 (5) 140mm Air Gap. Hagons advise that these are also suitable for the SRX400, for the same period of 1985-89, but provide no technical details!! ???.
Contact for Progressive: Progressive (http://www.progressivesuspension.com/prodSearchResults.aspx?yearID=1986&makeID=48&modelID=655)
Contact for Hagon: Hagon (http://www.hagon-shocks.co.uk/catalog/partdetail.aspx?PartNo=400-192-01)
I hope this helps.
My regards, Bill.
-
Ian, Bill, Steve - many thanks for the help, PMs sent.
Was considering new springs, think thats a definate now. Not sure I could manage a newer front end, I've spent enough time phaffing to get this far. Reckon I've spent more time looking up stuff on PC than I have riding the bike so far.
I'm on a slippery slope - found myself thinking it would be good to have a second bike while first is off the road.....
-
I'm on a slippery slope - found myself thinking it would be good to have a second bike while first is off the road.....
Aye Rafe,
That is why I have 'Sally'!!! Duke needed a rebuild, I couldn't find the time, so bought another bike. Ten years on, the Duke still isn't rebuilt, the abuse from local acqaintances and my wife is getting worse and 'Sally' is still being ridden, maintained and ruling the roost! The Duke is still in bits! :-[ One or two regularly ridden machines I think is possible, but these 'collections' do you head in in the end! :-[
All the best with getting yours back on the road.
My regards, Bill.
-
I "only" have two at the mo....I ride whichever one my mood takes me...Somedays Im just content dawdling along on the SRX, others I need to hurry along on the Bonnie....the old adage of horses for courses I think
Apologies to Rafe for "almost" hijacking his thread.
Hope you get sorted with your forks now...its a certain fact that we may be coming to you in future for information ourselves and how you got on with your task.
Best Regards
Ian :)
-
I appear to have the same problem as Dawdler. The springs were out last night - they measured just under 480mm. Obviously they'll have to be replaced as part of a complete fork overhaul. So a tool like the one described will have to be fashioned.
I was hoping to just refill with oil, but no. I think once I get round to the oil I'll use 15w to avoid the pogo-stick affect that I've got at the moment. It dives like an Italian striker under heavy braking.
-
Aye Keithypete,
"I was hoping to just refill with oil, but no. I think once I get round to the oil I'll use 15w to avoid the pogo-stick affect that I've got at the moment. It dives like an Italian striker under heavy braking. "
I wouldnae go there, with 15w oil. I'm 190lbs (86kg) and prefer the 10w with the Progressive springs, but as you can see SteveL prefers the stiffer front end and he is definitely more circuit adept than me. Start with a new set of springs and standard oil, with good seals and then you can tinker with the oil at your leisure.
If you need info on the 'tool' mentioned elsewhere in this thread, I can send you details.
My regards, Bill.
-
I'll take any & all advice I can, thanks.
Regarding the 'tool', please send any details and tips, and so on, so I can get one built.
Cheers, Pete.
-
Aye Pete,
Tool details on the 1st page of this thread (including measurements, it doesn't have to be exact apart from the bolt head) along with a photo of the finished job.
A *.pdf of a factory manual awaits, if you would care to send an email address to the 'private' mail link to the side of this message. Less likelihood of you getting 'spammed'! ???
My regards, Bill.
-
PM sent. Cheers.
-
You should have message and download! :)
Regards, Bill.
-
Thanks. That's very helpful. Nice one.
-
Nae bother.
Now off for a run afore being summoned for Father's Day festivities this pm. Wall to wall blue and a balmy 20C ;D
My regards, Bill.