Thumper Club Forum
Technical => Project Progress => Topic started by: Steve Lake on May 25, 2011, 09:28:23 AM
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In tandem with the #3 srx rebuild, i have been rebuilding 'tiggy' (Andy's Tigcraft/srx/szr/many other-odd-bits, supermon racer) you may remember I aquired from Andy a (long) while ago.
Had quite a bit to do, the frame (a piece of artwork from Tigcraft) had a crack, which leaked oil (oil in frame you see), so that had to be fixed.
the rear sprocket carrier was shedding its bolts at an alarming rate, and as all the threads had alrady been 'spiralled' we drilled them all out, welded up the holes and redrilled and tapped.
As such, the rear subframe exists only as a fibrglass shell forming the seat and tail, it also seconded as a handy place to hang the 'silencers' from, unfortunately the mounting areas for the silencers and the tail unit itself were not working very well tall, so a couple of days fibreglassing in extra support webbing was required.
it was now in a state where it could be taken to 'X-Bikes' in Wisbech (handily close to where i work) who have a dynojet dyno. Initial tests proved the engine had a high compression ratio, in as much as the dyno starter motor burnt out trying to swing it over!! ;D. V pi55ed off dyno manager and a month wait for new motor from the states.
with the dyno working and everything else set up (electronic ignition etc), she fired up uk, and without any adjustments was putting out 65bhp at the wheel.... not bad....Andy had got his sums right here.
the problem was (as we found out at Cadwell last year, there is bu55er all until 4k rpm, it just bogs at lower revs. several hours and lots of needle/jet combinations later a very nice flat line was achieved all the way up to 7.8k revs which was also where the peak power arrived, a whopping 70bhp on the wheel.
with the bike back home, lots more to do... new caliper bracket required on the front brake, as only 50% coverage with the existing one.. new silencer hangers to be made up to mate with modified and strengthened mounting on tail section.
A paint job required.....
to be continued
pics to follow
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some piccies i hope
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and a few more, new brake caliper bracket, some of the fibreglass repair/paintwork done
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the last 2 for now
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The fairing needed some repair work doing too, mainly round the mounting areas, but seems pretty firm now..... blummin 80 quids worth of paint splashed all over it
but it does look sort of ok now.
made a seat pad up for it.... bit of a bodge but it'll do the job.
pipes had to be wrapped in mesh to stop them burning the fairing
and the ignition system had to be moved, as it is not a good idea (according to slipstream tuning) to locate it next to the coil.
and the battery that was with the unit (its a total loss system, so the battery needs to be a good'un) was clapped out, so got a new one...hope it's going to be ok.
the tacho seems to work, but according to the maker, it isn't the right one, so it may either read 1/2 the revs or twice the reves, i'm sure i'll be able to tell the difference :-)
lots more bits and bobs to do before we go to cadwell on the Morini Riders trackday June 17th
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very pretty i want one :) :) :)
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U do?... make me an offer :)
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Aye Steve,
The old warhorse is looking well fettled in the piccies, enjoy Cadwell! ;)
I can't help but note the different climate you apparently have from us up here. 12C max, bloody 70mph hoolie yesterday with ruddy great trees and limbs flying about and regular rain for the past 3 weeks. Climate definitely different! ???
My regards, Bill. ;D
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You're right Bill, we'd give our left goolie for some of your weather!, it's like a desert here, we've had the wind but that just makes it more like the sahara, given up hope of any rain. Been using bathwater to keep veggie patch alive.... not sure if this is a good thing... looking at the state of the water after I've had a bath :)
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Ello Steve
Looking the business!! 80 quid well spent on the paint- your usual colour! And I'm very pleased the motor is good...
The reason that its right (tho lets not speak to soon!!) is the cumulative knowlege of the TC faithful, who all chipped in with the advice and chatter. A good part of which was you, Bill, SteveH, et al!!
(and I'm pleased that it broke the dyno!!! ;D )
I think the tacho should just about be ok...? Very high "ceiling" admittedly if I remember -12k or something daft! But it was the same one I used on the old SRX, and Dave Bennet also used it on his single....
Shame about the battery. T'was new at the time :-\ but that was time ago!
Cheers for now, keep us posted on this!
a
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Aye Steve,
Sounds like the overnight castration was sucessfull then. ::) A brief word with Mum and Dad's old neighbours in Felix', tells me that heavy showers have been peppering the region and 'The Smoke' is now impersonating Venice in some parts! ;D
As with Andy, I enjoy the burnt out dyno tale every time! ;D Everything may be BIG in TEXAS, but then if you use a washing machine motor to try and start an old 'Gruntfuttock', you know which one is going to win. ;)
Plenty of nice sycamore and beech have come down due to their 'sail' area, so the polytunnel is being filled! Lang may yur lum reek! ;)
Slainte, Bill.
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VEry, very nice.
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Howzit going Steve??
Just about ready?! 8)
best,
a
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Ran 'tiggy' up tonight... bluddy 'ell!... #1 son reckons its a widow maker, lifts the front in 1st and 2nd.... if the brakes and suspension are up to scratch we should have some fun on friday ;D.
The 100 quid i spent on the dyno set up was well worth it... well... it would seem so.
few little things to sort out ... battery mounting, programmable cdi unit mounting, and a bit of tidying up of the wiring/throttle cable/clutch cable intermix.
i have wound the pipes in heatproof tape, mainly to protect the lower fairing, and bought a load of new silencer packing (as Andy had a bit of a problem at snetterton with the Db police)
will take 3 bikes to the MRC track day, just in case unexpected problems arise.
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;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
All the best and may you have a dry track! ;)
We went to the Bob Mac on Saturday and by the time everybody had their practise the track was covered in standing water and 'play' was abandoned for the day. ??? So we had a 160mile round trip, including the Edinburgh 'by-pass', in rain, spray, myopic drivers with no lights on and no regard for stopping distances on slick tarmac! ??? :-X :-X Couldn't make it back on Sunday, which turned out dry but cold and I understand the intention was to run two days of races in one day!!!!!! :o :o :'( :'( :'( :'(
May try and come down for the BHR 2 day weekend jolly at the end of July or October. :)
Toodle pip, Bill.
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bluddy 'ell!... #1 son reckons its a widow maker, lifts the front in 1st and 2nd....
Great stuff, very pleased to hear it! Remember the brakes and suspension haven't had the same attention as the motor mate!! May need a bit of dialling in, so go careful round the gooseneck!!
The rear shock was rebuilt, but only roughly set up statically, and unless you've changed them, the forks will be a bit "suck it and see".
Yes, I thought the silencers were too loud, and re-packed them to no avail!! I tried dB killers in there, but only made it slightly quieter and no longer ridable!
100 quid on the dyno sounds like an absolute bargain. Is it the "Ignitech" ignition system you are using??
Keep us posted, and enjoy. If you can find a class, you'll be racing it next.....
a
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Yes Andy, it is the ignitech unit... which reminds me, i must go see the dyno fella at X-bikes, he (hopefully) has the current ignition profile on his pc, I know i can download it from the unit, but right now i'm going to leave it 'as is' on the 'if it aint broke, don't fix it' principle....but it would be handy to have the working profile in case the unit goes back to default or summat.
incidently, last night, whilst tidying up the wiring round the ignition/coil/tacho area... I found a handily crushed red wire which had, at some stage been shorting out... almost certainly the cause of the blown battery... so that was a bonus
with regard to the Db rating.... i noticed, when we ran it up the other night (with #1 son doing a passable impression of joey dunlop testing the bike up and down the local back lane) that it didn't seem as noisy as it was on the last outing at cadwell...might be my imagination or might be that, with the carbs and timing set up it's a bit calmer... we'll no doubt find out tomorrow ;D
MRC testing day report and pics to follow... weather don't look too promising, but cadwell does have it's own microclimate, so here's hoping
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What a bu55er!... tiggy went really well on the first session... i was starting to get used to the stunning handling, and the enourmous grunt.... it's an eye opener to ride a purpose built racing chassis with good suspension and tyres.... nothing could get near it on the straight, and it was so easy to carry corner speed...flip it into corners so easily...wonderful...
#1 son took it out on the 2nd session, and once he got passed me i couldn't get near him... and watching him in front the bike looked so good.... i did manage to show him my front wheel on a do or die outbreaking attempt... then it was the end of the session... i followed him round on the 'in' lap... he suddenly slowed, and as i pulled alongside i heard this sickening rattle.......
he was dumped out of the broom waggon 10 minutes later.... with the bike on the track stand and 2nd gear engaged, i tried to turn the engine over, 'clunk' and jammed solid... so... as far as i can tell it's probably a dropped valve, whether the collets came adrift and the whole valve dropped, or the stem broke, i won't know until we break it down...
I'll need to chat to Andy, as he has an intimate knowledge of the head, and what went into building it.
Anyway, back to the old standby bikes for the rest of the track day... and a good time was had until rain stopped play mid afternoon.
also, i noticed another crack in the frame, weeping oil, and the one i repaired is also a bit porus, so i'm thinking i'm going to get the whole chassis back to Martin Sweet at Tigcraft, to give it a once over, and replace the lugs so's i can fit my stonking SRX6 tuned engine that is running in my unfaired track bike at present, then at least we can get out a few more times this year... watch this space
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oops, for Martin Sweet read Dave Pearce, Martin of course is the man behind slipstream racing
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Ach Steve! :'( Terrible news!! :-[
On the (very minor) plus side, at least the handling is not a million miles out for another motor to go in...
Drop me a line, you still have my address?
Motor will have to come out to get the head off to get a look....
Ah feck...
a
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Andy.... Any info on the head would be handy... type of valves, where they came from.
are they special caps or standard srx.... likewise collets etc etc
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Hi Steve
All info is in the little black book of the build.
I can't remember offhand what the head is.... XT?? Tenere??
The valves are standard, just cleaned up on the back for a slightly better flow. Probably academic...
http://team-thumper.blogspot.com/2008/02/devil-is-in-detail.html
and
http://team-thumper.blogspot.com/2008/02/return-of-anorak.html
However, I do remember that there are 2 different sizes of valves, which are 1mm different. I seem to remember measuring the ones that came out, and they were (strangely) the smaller size- not as expected in a race motor.
However, bigger ones wouldn't have fitted the head, so I went with (new, Yam) smaller ones (didn't fancy the cheaper pattern ones I also sourced from Kedo). I think these Yam ones were marked 34K (??Tenere??)
As I say, all notes (inc. Yamaha data, and some from Steve's site) are in there.
Springs I think came from RD.
Is this any use?
http://team-thumper.blogspot.com/2008/05/terrible-headaches.html
nb. That last line!!
Collets are standard Yam, but very slightly dressed for clearance of the seal.... Do you think this has been the issue?
Did it drop a valve?? Lost collets??
Emailed you but happy to chat here...
Cheers
a
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Oh! What memories! ::)
Coil bound springs? ???
Tiss got I thinking, after I found valve stem seals 'minced' and yo-yoing with the valve, rather than attached to the valve guide. The inner springs had picked up on the outer cover of the seals and appeared to have pulled them off.
Smaller diameter valves would potentially give higher gas flow rates and 'mask' less. Also less mass to move at higher rpm.
Please keep I posted or as Cc.
Ta everso, Bill.
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Ummm, yes,... interesting idea Bill. Yours has a big can in it, eh? I think the guides had already been modd'ed for a big un... Seals (new, Yam) were on as far as they'd go...
Springs shouldn't have been coil bound, due to set up as per spec sheet with the springs...
Agreed about the smaller diam valves Bill, or maybe it was just that the head was already good, so the previous builder went with what he had.
Interesting, if rather grisly and unpleasant post-mortem. Any update from the pathologist?
a
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no, not yet.... will be stripping chassis out this weekend prior to delivering to Dave.... then i'll be looking at the mill, probably monday or tuesday.... just to keep everyone guessing :-)
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Aye Steve,
Your going to miss BHR at Cadwell this weekend, 2 day event. Unfortunately, I am in the same boat, but may be able to arrange the end of September one.
As for reading the entrails, I wish you well and hope that the seizure has not grenaded everything inside. Big ends don't like 'stopping' suddenly! ???
My regards and hope the sun shines. :)
Bill.
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yes Bill, cadwell would have been good this weekend.... great waether in prospect for sunday.
Still... i'll have to make do with BSB at snetterton next weekend (bet it'll be wet)
have a good weekend everyone
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Right... nice sunny day... swmbo off out to visit some gardens.... time for me to have a look at the engine.
fairly easy job to drop it out of the tigcraft chassis.....
once out, the rocker cover comes off... and all looks good in there
next the head comes off and everything looks fine there too
now the clutch cover comes off, and.... oh bugger.... loads of teeth all over the place, the the sprocket on the crankshaft that drives the balance shaft 80% stripped and the sprocket on the end of the balance shaft is in a similar state... heaven knows what could have caused this, possibly a foriegn body.. or a broken tooth... i guess i'll maybe know more as i break the motor down further..
tried to post some pics, but says upload folder is full.... stick some up asap
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tried to post some pics, but says upload folder is full.... stick some up asap
Now fixed
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Hmmm, that would explain it then!
Am not sure if its good or bad news tho... Good that the new piston, valves, springs etc are not scrap. That would pain me (and you)!!
Tho I suppose the bottom end will be dearer and harder to fix.
I have heard in the past that the balancer shaft teeth are not the strongest, and these ones have had a lot of hard use for a number of years... I suppose we are asking quite a lot, from a motor that normally puts out under 50 bhp... Nearly a 50% increase. Tho that was the rationaly for using the 660 bottom end.... (tho maybe the internal parts are the same and just the cases are stronger)
Keep us posted mate, I may have some bits under my bench for the Skorpion if you need. Not sure whats there, but can have a look if you post some piccies?
Cheers
a
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Not sure how extra power would cause the failure. I cant remember of the flywheel was removed/lightened, if so this would allow the engine to spin up much faster putting extra load on the balancer shaft gearing. The balancer shaft drive has a 'cush' drive in it, is this still on one piece ?
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Steve... not had a close look at it yet.... didn't know about the cush drive... is this peculiar to the SZR bottom end?
trying to find a socket to get the nut off the crankshaft...
as can be seen from the pics, most of the teeth are missing from the crankshaft sprocket
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last pic
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Aye Steve,
Refer to pages 3-34 and 3-35 in the SRX600 manual and you'll see the culprit.
From viewing your piccies it appears that fatigue and then the old adage "One out, ALL out!" then applied, as shock loading from missing teeth moved onto next tooth on circumference.
Where your 'dot' marks on the gear and the internal buffer aligned? Can see in your last image the 'dot' mark on the gear, but suspect the other is masked by the slotted washer.
The weights 'driven' gear appears to be made from a different material to that of the one on the end of the crank.
And here I show my engineering 'numptiness', if you are putting 60bhp through the rear tyre, does that mean you are putting nearer 70bhp through the gear on the end of the crank into the clutch? Therefore, you must be putting the same through the gear into the balancer, yet it is less than half the bearing surface of the primary teeth!!!!!! ::) I stand to be shot down in flames, if wrong.
Also read I think on the 'Thumper' site that someone had removed the weight when racing, so as to release extra bhp and remove the risk of this happening. I realise that this might destroy the 'Tiggy' frame, with the jack hammer vibes you might release. Crank balance factors etc!! Maybe 'Mr Slipstream' would care to comment. A thorough strip, flush and complete new set of bearings, sump oil filter and oil pump look in order as a minimum. ??? :( I hope I am proved wrong.
My regards, Bill.
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And here I show my engineering 'numptiness', if you are putting 60bhp through the rear tyre, does that mean you are putting nearer 70bhp through the gear on the end of the crank into the clutch? Therefore, you must be putting the same through the gear into the balancer, yet it is less than half the bearing surface of the primary teeth!!!!!! ::) I stand to be shot down in flames, if wrong.
Bill, the load through the gear driving the balancer shaft will be due to the balancer shafts inertia when the engine is accelerating/decelerating, if the flywheel has been removed then the engine inertia will be less and the engine can accelerate faster, putting extra load on the gears. I doubt its enough to do the damage though.
Steve, the 'cush' drive is sandwiched into the drive shaft, there are a bunch of springs and stuff in there that I have not give much thought to before. Oddly on your last picture the driven sprocket looks to have teeth which have been damaged at the rear rather than completely removed.
The other thing to consider is that the balancer shaft weight can hit the crank if if left loose, so you may find the end of the con-rod has taken a beating as well.
Also another option is that the crankshaft woodruff key has sheared, knocking the balancer shaft timing out ?.
Steve
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Its quite common to replace the "cushed" balancer shaft gears in this motor with solid ones. Presumably without the cush they are more resiliant...?
I opted not to change them as they make a terrible racket (allegedly, never done em), and presumed those that were there would be ok...
Clearly not.
a
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Steve, the 'cush' drive is sandwiched into the drive shaft, there are a bunch of springs and stuff in there that I have not give much thought to before. Oddly on your last picture the driven sprocket looks to have teeth which have been damaged at the rear rather than completely removed.
The other thing to consider is that the balancer shaft weight can hit the crank if if left loose, so you may find the end of the con-rod has taken a beating as well.
Also another option is that the crankshaft woodruff key has sheared, knocking the balancer shaft timing out ?.
Steve
Aye Steve, I understand about the inertia and thank you for setting it out. I too was puzzled by the reduction in width of the teeth on the counter balance shaft. Are you thinking "sideways" movement after failure of the woodruff key? The timing going whizz won't have helped the end of the rod or maybe the flywheels. It's all a bit tight in there!
Hope it's not as bad we fear when Steve gets back to us, if he wants to!
My regards, Bill.
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Its quite common to replace the "cushed" balancer shaft gears in this motor with solid ones. Presumably without the cush they are more resiliant...?
I opted not to change them as they make a terrible racket (allegedly, never done em), and presumed those that were there would be ok...
Clearly not.
a
Aye Andy, Bit like a Duke with straight cuts, rather than bevels! ;D
Regards, Bill.
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Yes Steve, you are right, the balancer gear would appear to be damaged on the inner 3/4's suggesting a misalignment.
Bill, i'm not sure the balance shaft cam be removed successfully, as it is hollow and acts as an oilway.... I guess it could be replace woth a tube of similar dimensions, but i've not heard of it being done.
You're right about the flywheel/bigend taking a pasting from the freewheeling balancer..... that's what i could hear when i passed the bike at cadwell. It remains to be seen what damage has been done when i split the casing.
still looking for a socket, when i get one it's not going to be easy, the reccomendation in the manual is to jam the sprockets with a rag prior to torquing up....
they wrote that assuming there were teeth on the sprockets!! :-)
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Aye Steve,
Old chainsaw trick of a piston 'stopper' threaded through the plug hole, or rag fed in through the plug hole. If you are further stripped out, with the head and piston out of the way, a long 1/2" extension supported between blocks of wood either side of the crankcase mouth and with cloth wrapped around it prevents crank rotation.
As for the counterbalancer, if they have been hammering each other, one last interlocking of crank and counterbalancer with rag in between and then plenty of steady torque applied isn't going to further damage the jack hammer damage you may have suffered already. Or an air wrench if you have access to one.
Tell me to P*** O** if necessary, it's you that has the beast and I'm 450 miles away tapping on a keyboard!
All the best with whatever you resolve to do.
My regards and commiserations, Bill.
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Air wrench is the way to go. I have a cheapo Aldi compressor and a £25 air wrench, solves many problems including getting the flywheel off.
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thanks guys.
Steve...do you know if the crankshaft/balancer sprockets are the same on this lump (SZR/MUZ) as the srx/xt? (also is there a match on the srx 400)
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hi steve
counter balancer can be removed. bill Jurgenson has done it.
It has pros and cons tho:
the whole blog will be interesting to you, also re gears -->
http://cembalobill.blogspot.com/
C/balancer removal -->
http://cembalobill.blogspot.com/2007/12/balancer-shaft-and-myths.html
I had thought there were some pics somewhere tho.... He uses a replacement dummy shaft...
a
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thanks guys.
Steve...do you know if the crankshaft/balancer sprockets are the same on this lump (SZR/MUZ) as the srx/xt? (also is there a match on the srx 400)
I will have to pass on that. It would expect them to be pretty close, if not identical, but you will need to compare them side to side
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Steve
Don't even think about removing the balance shaft. That chassis has lasted 20 years
so be gentle with it.
Dave Pearce
Tigcraft :o
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Aye Steve,
I see Dave's getting misty eyed about his 'baby' and he has my sympathies, having written this afore, "I realise that this might destroy the 'Tiggy' frame, with the jack hammer vibes you might release. Crank balance factors etc!!". ;)
The solid gears, properly tempered, maybe a better way to go. But why did Yamaha put a shock absorber in there in the first place? ???
I may have a spare pair from an SRX, but suspect you'll be wanting to stick with an SZR or XT bottom end.
SteveH. I knew I'd seen it somewhere and you've hit the nail on the head.
SteveL. Maybe have a look and a blether with these boys as well! ;D : http://www.barebones.net/machines.htm
All the best, Bill.
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Good point Dave.... :)
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ok, got the sprockets off, reason the balance shaft sprocket was a s*d to get off was because it had been forced round the shaft by 10 thou, notching the key slot, and stepping the key!
So, items to be replace (so far) both sprockets, and the balance shaft + of course the nuts and lock washers... getting expensive!
whilst we are on the subject of lock washers, you can see from the pic that one of the tabs on the washer is broken off... more than enough to mesh into the gears and cause all this damage..... maybe
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last one
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Mmmmm. Well and truely shagged mate :-\
you can see from the pic that one of the tabs on the washer is broken off... more than enough to mesh into the gears and cause all this damage..... maybe
Yes, definately maybe... I don't think I have a balancer shaft, but will have a look and report back.
Cheers for now
a
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I have a spare SRX600 balancer shaft you can have.
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reckon it'll fit the szr mill steve?
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I once saw a TZ framed FT500 motor racer that pretty much disintegrated after just a few laps of practice at Snetterton. The counter balancers had been removed - I think we counted at least 14 cracks in the frame :o
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hi steve,
Got a balancer, marked 34K, ??Tenere/ SRX code?? if its any use to you.
Cheers,
a
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reckon it'll fit the szr mill steve?
Not sure, it really needs a SZR or XTZ660 parts list to be certain.
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hi andy, yes, i think thats the engine code on 'tiggy' , i'll have a look in the morning (too pished on a litre of rioja right now)... does it include the gear?
cheers
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hi andy, yes, i think thats the engine code on 'tiggy' , i'll have a look in the morning (too pished on a litre of rioja right now)... does it include the gear?
cheers
I have spare gears if needed. Let me know an address and I'll get them in the post
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Hi Steve
The top end of that motor is 34K. Not sure if the air cooled and liquid cooled bikes used the same balancer. I suspect they did.
No gear on the shaft just now, but I believe I have a pair of solid balancer shaft gears. Would you fancy? Supposedly make a hell of a racket, but guys seem to favour them over the "cushed" balancer gears...
I was keeping them for the skorpion if needed, but you seem to need them more than me just now!!
Cheers for now, let me know,
a
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cheers andy..... lets wait until i have the motor split, and assess the total damage, might be that i put it back to an srx bottom end, or rebuild the XT bottom end I have at the back of the garage.... which may or may not have all the bits i need!..... just remembered it....thanks for reminding me :D.
I'll check it out tonight.
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Hi steve
Apparently the major "plus" of that bottom end is the nice close ratio cluster in there. It may or may not fit into the "aircooled" cases...
Just incase you didn't know and junked it!! :o
Let us know if you need anything. I asure we have enought between all of us to get it back running many times over!! Would be interesting to see the differences between the two different bottom ends... I had assumed the 660cc version would be meatier, but I dont know.....
cheers
a
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Dear Mr Rioja! :)
Have balancer and standard gears for SRX, in garage. Nothing flash, lightweight or close ratio, but could do a turn in a tight spot! :) You have the contact if required. :)
Other standard SRX bits for a bottom end if needed.
My regards, Bill.
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offer noted Bill, ta very much... it'll be the weekend afore i get round to stripping the engine, and sorting out what bits i need, and what bits i have.
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OK... lot of water (and beer, wine etc) passed into the ceptic tank since the last report.....
Finally stripped the Tigcraft chassis down, and contacted Dave (Pearce) aka Mr Tigcraft. arranged to drop off chassis with Dave for some much needed TLC (I had a weeks work to do in Guernsey, so drove past Dave's place on my way to the ferry)
I have made a decision (some may say wrongly) to put an SRX6 engine back into the tigcraft chassis, the one from my mono chassis track bike (those in the know will realise that a twinshock motor in a mono chassis has a 10mm chain misalignment.. so this will resolve that problem)... Also Dave tels me that this was his first chassis for an srx engine... it also has plenty more history... winning the supermono series one year... Dave'll put me right on that one.
anyway, the chassis has a few oil weeps and requires an engine mounting bracket replacing which was removed to accomodate Andy's hybrid engine. (so that Dave can get the bracket aligned correctly I also left him with a standard twinshock srx engine bottom end)
once the Chassis is back with me, it should be a 'simple' case of removing the mill from the monoshock bike and building up 'tiggy'
again. This particular engine is of unknown heritage, but i have run it for several years in the mono chassis, and considering the weight of those chassis it has at least as much grunt as the engine i'm taking out.... down side is that i'll be using the standard ignition box, so, apart from a bit od carb tuning what i have is what 'ill have to put up with... but once the whole plot is up and running I will get it down to X-bikes and see if I can blow the dyno again!
I'll pick this thread up again when i get the chassis back from Dave... toodle pip
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Aye Steve,
Delighted to read that your sceptic tank is in good working order! I wish you well with this rebuild, the bits are still lying dormant, if required from hibernation.
I am still in purdah for not purchasing the Aermacchi SS350 in a 'Drixtonesque' frame with Greeves leading link forks, that might have been an early Benny endurance bike! :'( But the Duke needs attention and having looked at the swinging arm and rear subframe, they require attention before I go any further. Procrastination!?!
Sad to note that Mick Walker succumbed at the beginning of last month, not before he had written his autobiography, but before it was published. Another generational 'move on' and 'poke' for me to sort the Duke and ride it.
However, today being the last day of summer up here and the Norton Owners coincidentally having a luncheon soiree up the road, both Sally and The Boy Bros, will be arriving with 'NORTON' labels taped to the tanks!
Good health and I hope the grey water system sustains the bountiful harvest from 'The Home County'! ;)
Toodle pip, Bill.
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Hey Bill!
Weather still fine here (as of Monday 7.30 am)... but all efforts are in the garden arena at present (building up brownie points so's i can wangle a round trip to Tigcraft {some 400 miles} to collect 'tiggys' frame)... glad all is well with you...
Guernsey was a beer desert... first time i've had to resort to G&T for a while... oh..and the odd sambuca... (very odd actually)
cheers
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Great news steve, keep us posted.
I am sure Dave will make a great job of sorting out the necessaries.
Simpler I think to have a standard-ish motor in there. Are you keeping the suspension as it was??
Re. history, I think it won the championship in 1991... the first year of supermono! Yep, Dave will confirm.
:-[ Ooooh my butchery of that rear engine mount lug.... Hang my head in shame!
Cheers for now mate, glad its moving
a