Thumper Club Forum
Technical => Bike Problems/Questions => Topic started by: Nell on September 29, 2010, 04:09:57 PM
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I have used Castrol GTX in my XBR 500 for many years without any problems, changing it at 1000 to 1200 mile intervals. On my last visit to Halfords to buy another 5 litres the shelves were bare and I was told that GTX mineral oil is no longer available and semi synthetic is the answer.
I know there have been many threads on this subject before and I could still use mineral oil from other manufacturers but it appears it will become a difficult product to obtain in the near future.
Has anyone changed over and had problems or is this the way to go? Apparently it is better for gearboxes but what about Honda camshafts?
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Some years ago a friend of mine was able to get via an oil company representative 25 litres of semi-synthetic Total Quartz car oil 10w/40, he gave it to me !. For the last 10000 miles my extremely thrashed (Cornwall to Stafford at 70mph several times) my thirty-year-old CB250RSA, now with 51000 miles on it, has suffered no problems other than the gear-change being a little 'notchy'. It would appear that as long as it's the correct grade of oil and changed at realistic mileages (1000/1200 in my case) fretting over if you're doing the 'Right Thing' could well be pointless. Clean fresh oil probably matters more than anything else.
Regards to all, Dick Scratcher.
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I always use a 'proper' bike oil, some of the new car oils can cause clutch slippage problems.
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I use full synthetic 10W40 car oil in my SLR650. No probs plus its better in all respects except for running-in, when the poorer lubricating qualities of mineral allow initial wear: bedding in.
Synthetic doesn't break down as rapidly as mineral, will tolerate constant higher temps (a truck owner in USA only changes the oil when his chemist says so: up to 250,000 miles with just top-ups and filter changes, big article somewhere on tinternet).
I change the oil every 6k kms and the filter every 2k kms. Filters are cheaper than good oil.
I had clutch slippage problems with a 150bhp V-Max when I used synth for cars in it. Changed to a Barnett clutch rather than use inferior oils (bike-only synth was very rare then!)
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I've never had any problems in "less new bikes" with Rock Oil Semi synthetic
http://www.whitedogbikes.com/item--Rock-Oil-Motorcycle-Semi-Synthetic-10w40-25-Litre-Drum--Rock_Oil_Motorcycle_25_Litre.html
Though i do put fully synthetic in my Kwak Z50 54 plate
John
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In all my SRX's (road and track) I use Halfrauds 10/40 semi synthetic, I think the secret is not just the oil you use, but regular oil/filter changes......it's a cheap way of keeping the bike in good nik
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I use Silkolene Semi Synthetic Motorcycle specific ( coz of the wet clutch ) in ALL of my bikes
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I used Morrisons own 20/50 in my old Enfield, now I've blown it and fitted a new motor I shan't. ::)
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Thanks for all the comments, semi-synthetic it is then. Shame your Enfield blew up Mark.
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Thanks for all the comments, semi-synthetic it is then. Shame your Enfield blew up Mark.
It's not a shame really 'cos it was a 350 now it's fitted with a 500. ;D
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I used Morrisons own 20/50 in my old Enfield, now I've blown it and fitted a new motor I shan't. ::)
I always used Silkolene straight oils in my Enfields.
40w for winter and Chatsworth 50w for summer.
I did try a 20/50w oil and she drank it like nobodies buisness.
On straight 50 not too bad.
Jethro
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I used Morrisons own 20/50 in my old Enfield, now I've blown it and fitted a new motor I shan't. ::)
I always used Silkolene straight oils in my Enfields.
40w for winter and Chatsworth 50w for summer.
I did try a 20/50w oil and she drank it like nobodies buisness.
On straight 50 not too bad.
Jethro
Ta, shall take that as Gospel cos a man of the cloth from whom I bought one Enfield passed on such info, so I treat that one to the works and used to neglect the other.
It was an experiment of a destruction test. I did in two months what the Indians couldn't do in 40 years.
Destroyed it. :(
Mark