Thumper Club Forum
Technical => Bike Problems/Questions => Topic started by: Mark on October 01, 2009, 05:00:19 PM
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What do the professional SRX riders here recommend as their choice of grade for engine oil, the bike is used for regular road use year round.
Is there available a downloadable computery thingy type manual for the SRX600
Ta, Mark
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Aye Mark,
Please PM me with your postal address. A CD with workshop manual 'burnt' on, can then be despatched.
As for oil? Any 10/40 designed for motorcycles, Halfrauds, Morris, Silkolene, etc. Being a cheapskate I was using a car 10/40, but when the clutch spins up as your about overtake ::) and the oncoming timber lorry crowds the gutter to allow three way working :-*, you do something about it. Wash all the clutch plates in brake cleaner, check plate thickness and spring lengths, re-assemble with care. Check cable for wear, lubricate and re-install with care. Finally, re-fill motor with correct grade of oil and hey presto, the clutch behaves as it should and grips! ;D
My regards, Bill.
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I agree, Halfrauds 10/40 semi synthetic bike oil, and a new filter (also from halfords) and i change oil and filter every couple of 1000 miles at the most (i know thats considerably more often that is normal...but it's relatively cheap and well worth the effort I feel)
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Aye Steve,
1500 miles for oil and 3000 for filter for me, but don't need persuading that 1000 miles could benificial. Clean oil and plenty of it in the 'right' places. ;D
Regards, Bill.
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Thanks for the info lads,
Mouldie, I've pm'd you my details cheers.
I'll get on with the service tomorrow, do you know what are the valve clearances are off hand, it's a bit tappety.
Mark
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Aye Mark,
What's this "Mouldy" thing? :) 'Moudie' as in mole. :)
Will try and get the burn done tonight.
Align 'T' on the rotor (left hand cover - remove timing plug) with cast pointer on outer case. Piston must be at Top Dead Centre (TDC) on the compression stroke and the engine cold, afore adjusting valve clearance.
INLET = 0.05mm - 0.10mm (0.002" - 0.004")
EXHAUST = 0.12mm - 0.17mm (0.005" - 0.007")
It's a fiddle and a phaff! ???
My regards, Bill.
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Dunno about these days but last time I looked at oil prices in Halfrauds (and read the spec on the back of the cans) I had to go for a lie down :o
My answer at the time was to go to a car motor factors and ask for a generic 10w40 semi-synthetic, which they sold me for less than half the Halfrauds price for own brand...
Of course they *may* have mended their ways ::)
Dunno just now 'cause I've been supporting my local bike shop (if you find a good one look after them!) and buying there :)
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Apologies Moodie, not very observant me. ;D
Got the job done today thanks. Got an offer on the M and P website, Motul semi synthetic 10w40 and a free can of chain lube £19.50 so then went and fetched it.
By coincidence after doing the valve clearances the bike didn't run right, convinced I hadn't done anything wrong I stripped the carbs, red sealant previously used to seal the float bowl partially blocked the main jet. Could have so easily gone down the wrong fault finding path.
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Hi there. I'm getting a bit closer to finishing my basket case SRX & am looking at the RH side cover with separate cover for oil filter. I don't have any of the original bolts for these so i was sizing up for nice stainless socket screw replacements when I happened to notice that the bottom-most oil filter cover screw seems to obstruct a drilling in the case that I assume to be an oilway ???
To be on the safe side I've ordered that particular bolt from Yamaha but it hasn't come in yet & I was just curious...
Leah
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The bottom screw covers a hole in the housing, allowing you to drain the oil from the filter housing before removing the cover. Clever, eh?
Trevor