Thumper Club Forum
Technical => Bike Problems/Questions => Topic started by: xbruby on June 04, 2007, 04:45:34 PM
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Guys,
I know this is a stupid question but are those little bolts at the base of the fork legs oil drain bolts?
I ask because they dont appear to get a mention anywhere in my XBR (Honda) service manual and I would like to change the fork oil without dismantling the whole fork assembly. No torque figures either!
I would also lie to install a braided line to the front brake, any recomendations?
Regards,
Andy
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Yep they are the drain plugs and no, I can't find any torque setting either! Brake hoses - I used M&P's own which has been fine apart from the cadmium plated fittings are looking a bit tarnish- don't be a cheapskate like me and get stainless or alloy fittings. Wemoto - www.wemoto.com have them at £26 and M&P have single line Goodridge at £25.
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Thank you for confirming the obvious, a bit of a surprise when it doesn't appear in the official Honda manual mind you!
Andy
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Wemoto - www.wemoto.com have them at £26 and M&P have single line Goodridge at £25.
I ordered a Melvin steel hose for the rear of my SZR. Having played around with it and struggling to route it I asked them about it. Turned out they'd sent me a front one in error - BUT they then sent the correct one and said I was welcome to keep the front by way of an apology - top guys! My SZR has twin HEL hoses on the front so if any SZR owner out there wants a front one you can have it for the postage and price of a pint.....
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Yep they are the drain plugs and no, I can't find any torque setting either! Brake hoses - I used M&P's own which has been fine apart from the cadmium plated fittings are looking a bit tarnish- don't be a cheapskate like me and get stainless or alloy fittings. Wemoto - www.wemoto.com have them at £26 and M&P have single line Goodridge at £25.
Alloy fittings on a street bike are not legal as such !
Sure MOT Failure !
Go for stainless.
Jethro
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Note the copper sealing washers under. And when doing them up, use a small spanner so you don't overtorque them. They're very easy to strip. I tried 'fork oil' as recommended by a mechanic who wanted to sell me some--it wasn't nice. So I had all the trouble of draining it again and refilling with the proper ATF. Get that from any auto supply shop; choose general-purpose type suitable for Toyota Corollas and like that.
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When you drain the forks I'd reccomend you don't bounce them or pump them to drain out the oil... unless you have some form of catcher!
Two reasons... 1, the oil can squirt easily six feet sideways away from the bike, 2, Old fork oil is some of the most repulsive smelling liquid I have ever encountered (and I promise you the competition is fierce!)
Just don't ask how I know... ;)
As to the oil, I fitted progressive fork springs from Hagon and filled with the grade of fork oil they recommended to the level they said, it made a huge improvement :)
Brakewize, if you are not doing it already I'd recommend a full strip and clean while the line is off and get the caliper 100%, that, along with fresh fluid and new pads will leave your front brake unrecogniseable!!
Good luck :)
Smudge
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Thanks for the info Smudge.
I bought a pair of Hagon progressive springs at Stafford (together with replacment rear shocks) last year and still haven't fitted them - pathetic I know. They also came with replacement oil so I will do both together. Are the copper washers behind the drain bolts attainable from David Silver or similar or did you use a generic from somewhere?
I also have new brake pads to fit so I am going to do the line replacement at the same time. As mentioned in earlier ramblings I really fancied a HEL line but they seem very expensive for what they are.
Regards,
Andy
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iirc I just annealed the old ones ;)
The best thing about copper washers!
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Neat idea!
How carefully did you control the temperature in the annealing process? Do you have access to an annealing oven at work?
One of my customers manufactures and heat treats copper tube but I dare say they would laugh uncontrollably if I asked them to anneal two small copper washers. Come to think of it I couldn't bring myself to ask!
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lol, nothing as high tech as that!! I took a pair of old needle nosed pliers and a small blowtorch and heated the washers until cherry red, the colour is fairly obvious, dull red is too cold and orangey red is too hot. Little washers don't take long btw!
I then drop it into a bowl of cold water. I've been told that small items like washers don't need the sudden cooling and can be allowed to cool naturally but I like the water as I'm less likely to try to pick up a dull but very hot washer and burn myself ;)
You should probably only anneal a few times before replacing but it's a satisfying trick, and makes you look good when the sump or whatever doesn't leak anymore :D
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Thanks for the excellent advice.
I will definitely try.
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Nice one Smudge, I'll try that also!