Thumper Club Forum
Technical => Project Progress => Topic started by: Steve Lake on April 16, 2023, 07:50:56 PM
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As i've mentioned elsewhere in here, i bought an SRX400 a while back. lots of niggles before i could ride it and find out what else needed doing.
i have now stripped it down so that i can see exactly what is required to bring it up to a 'keeper' fit to replace #1.
steering was very notchy, and when stripped the ball cups looked like a roulette wheel. so a roller kit on order.
on stripping the forks, i'm disappointed to find a whole host of problems. the tubes are badly pitted, so will need to be rechromed.
the spindle thread had been helicoiled, but the coil was half way out, in addition the thread on the spindle was a real mess.
this had the potential to be a real show stopper, but for a local old school engineer who has fettled stuff for me in the past. he made a wonderful job of repairing it, as i hope the pictures show. new seals etc on order.
the swing arm basically didn't , and when i finally got the spindle out i found the needle rollers were crushed, square or missing. so they are on order along with the spaces & seals from Yamaha an eye watering £80+ !.
wheels, sprocket carrier, fork tubes, headstock, speedo/tacho/headlamp support frame, swingarm all sent for powder coating.
tank, front guard, tail piece, side panels sent for respray.
i'm also waiting for a quote to make up some s/s chainguards....
all in all ... as usual .....this aint going to be cheap ..... but hopefully it'll be worth the effort.....
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a quick update ... my usual upholsterer is no more sadly, a victim of covid in as much as he closed his business, located another fairly local with a good reputation, so dropped 2 seats off to him, and had a look at some of his work, most impressive ... so was the quote at £150 each ... my 'refurb pot' winced ... again.
finally got a quote for the s/s chain guards £60 each ... so only ordered 3 (as there was little or no interest to my advert) there will be one spare if anyone fancies it. (probably cheaper elsewhere if made from 9ct gold!)
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due to a cockup (mine), whilst ordering 4 exhaust studs using fowlers excellent parts website, i managed to bu55er up the part numbers, and as they were special order i had to bite the bullet and pay for them, so, if anyone wants an srx cylinder head stud (the one that faces down when the head is fitted, 2 per head) then i have 4 , couple of quid + carriage will suffice.
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following the respray of the relevant painty bits i will of course have to replace all the decals, so, off to norwich to my 'signwriter man' who has all my decals on file, well, he did, another victim of covid, business closed. undeterred i found a most excellent guy in swaffham. 'uncle lukes vehicle graphics' made a great job at a reasonable price, and i now have 50 of every srx decal in gold & original dark silver.
onwards and upwards
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Looking forward to seeing some pics Steve 👍
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been fettling the wiring over the last few days, bit of a problem in that the grommets (3) in the headlight back were pretty much perished away, so i did a bit of searching, and found a (semi) local supplier, so took a gamble and ordered a range of suitable bits.
turned up this morning and i struck lucky, got a perfect fit. they are slightly more robust than standard, which is good as far as i'm concerned, not wishing to unplug everything i thought i'd try cutting and feeding it in, absolutely spot on. took a bit of effort to get it in properly with no overlap. well pleased. details on the photo if anyone needs any.
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Useful source for those grommets, thanks Steve.
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well, here's a thing..while i'm waiting (and waiting and waiting) for refurbished bits to come back i've been doing all the fiddly bits that usually get left 'til last. so this weekend i fitted some led indicators + their associated flasher. thought i had it all working but then realised that all the units flash whichever position the switch is in. checked all the wiring, can't see a problem. weirdly, the only way i can get them to work correctly is to remove the repeater bulb in the binnacle. more investigation is needed. BUT ... on a little jaunt out on #1 to the local bike meet exactly the same thing started happening on #1 !!. last night i traced that to a broken -ve (earth), so i'm hoping that this may be the same fault on #10.
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That was both unlucky and lucky at the same time. To experience a fault is frustrating, but to hopefully find that the solution to the one fault leads to a cure for the other fault would be useful.
Ian
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In some layouts the repeater is connected between left and right so earths through the "inactive" side (I think...). Perhaps your bulbs are the wrong power rating or maybe the flasher units don't like that layout?
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Quite possibly ian ... with the repeater bulb removed and a volt meter across the terminals the polarity reverses as the indicator switch is changed from L to R ... that's as far as i've got today, the family descended with copious amounts of local beer, and, not wishing to be rude i consumed a lot of it whilst converting sausages and burgers to carbon for lunch... good time had by all... #10 will have to wait 'til i'm sober :)
pip pip
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Snap! ;)
350 crankshaft will have to wait till tomorrow!
Happy Father's day to all on this site!
Bill
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ok, Ian was spot on, the repeater finds it's return through the non selected side of the switch, with LED indicators and flasher module this return circuit provides a complete circuit so they all flash.
plan A. replace the tungsten repeater bulb with 2 LED's working in opposite directions ... good idea, leds work but so do ALL the indicators
plan B run a led between the flasher unit live side to earth... not bad thinking but 12v blew the led up !
plan C run a led between the flasher unit switched side and earth ... possibility but everything flashing again.
plan D run a led in series in the switched side of the flasher unit ... now we're talking! one problem, indicators run at about half intensity.
plan E buy some higher current superbrite leds (square lense type) then possibly run 2 in parallel ... on order, watch this space.
on another note, i have a lovely full colour SRX circuit diagram, very easy to understand, it is for the european (with sidestand switch) models, but the wire colours are the same as my #1 & #10 which are jap grey imports.
i have copied it as 6 A4 pages (JPEG), printed it off and it goes together ok. so if anyone is interested i'll post the 6 pages up on here somewhere (suggestions)
cheers
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Mornin' sunshine,
Me!Me! Please Sir! Me! ::) Brat!
As requested, suggestions:
- May I have a *.pdf copy please?
- Ian, he of the "Grumpy Trumpy" special, posts images in his posts, not as attachments. Not sure "How?", it would be nice to know. Hence they are'nt removed to keep the size of the forum down and as *.jpg files, could be copied and saved to a hard drive/ stick. Posted in "Bike Problems / Questions" and titled "SRX Coloured Wiring Diagram, European models".
- Maybe put it on an image sharing platform and post the link as suggested above. But that depends upon an awful lot of variable "If's & But's" and may lead spammers and trolls to this forum that we would rather discourage.
Does that help or hinder the cause?
Thank you for sharing.
Bill
P.S. Note that I have made an a*se of this thread because I cannot get rid of the ruddy codeing syntax from the posting! >:( >:( >:([/list]
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hi Bill, i thought i'd try 2 per post just to see what happened... what happened was.... F'all
so will try and work out another way.
i had thought that i could photo the whole diagram, then post it as a single lpg image for users to enlarge and view/print as required.
in fact i'll put that on here now and wait for comments
pip
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Good morning Bill (or bonjour as I'm in sunny Brittany!)
The reason I can put images directly is that I have my own web space with a few choice items - mostly used for posting details of bikes I have been flogging. So I can just put in a direct link. This has several advantages including having control over my domain and email as well as my photos but does of course cost.....
I must admit that the removal of pics from older posts is a bit of a hassle if like me you want to look at them - like when I was doing my CX tank fitment to the XBR. It may be worth investigating a way of archiving pics but we are a fairly small select band.
A couple of examples of my pages:
http://www.iansoady.org.uk/Sunbeam/restoration.html
http://www.iansoady.org.uk/hints%20and%20tips/
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that makes a lot of sense Ian, and i too have 2 domains of my own, but i have them purely for total control of our email addresses.
i tried posting a pic which worked ok, but when enlarging on my lappy you lose definition & clarity, so i really need to find a way of posting the six A4 scanned images. i could post them attached to 6 separate messages but that seems a bit long winded.
cheers
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Hi Steve, I have my pages etc hosted by 123reg who seem reasonable (but have just put their prices up). They charge £3 a month (+vat) including 1 domain name and 2 email addresses.
https://www.123-reg.co.uk/web-hosting/
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i'm going to try and post the wiring diags on here via a (free) hosting site. there are 6 A4's to each diag. so i have posted them as JPG & PDF.
if it works ok then maybe i should put it in a place.... admin please advise
well, that was a big ...failure
sorry, back to the drawing board... watch this space
lets try this
https://stevelake.imgbb.com/albums
sort of works ... let me know if it works elsewhere
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.. watch this space
👀
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If you can email them to me I can stick them on my webspace and make them available. PM me and I'll give you my email address.
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hi ian.... i think i've pm'd you ok.
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Yes, replied.
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well, moving on, having received 1 pair (of 2) stanchions back from HCP (after a lot of hassle... see thread in rants), i have now rebuilt a set of forks and got them fitted, along with the new clipons and associated controls. then the next cockup arose ... i had previously ordered and had fitted, a pair of avons, they look a nice tyre, proof of the pudding will be when we get on the road. i had finished the back end of the bike some time ago, and the front wheel was at the back of the workshop awaiting the fork fitting. so, i come to fit the wheel which went ok then the mudguard which didn't, little or no clearance .... i stand back and look .... it has to be the wrong sized tyre!... bu55er! the plonkers had fitted a 120-80 x 17 instead of 100-80 x 17 ... i'm a plonker as well, not checking when i picked them up. icould see a lot of problems/aggro in getting the local bike shop exchanging it (what/who/when ordered that size etc) so i picked up the correct size from M&P via their ebay shop, arrived the next day, got 'the local bike shop' to remove the 'old' tyre and fit the new one (no they weren't gong to take it back into stock) , wheel fitted, mudguard fitted, starting to look like a bike....
check 'items for sale' for details of an avon tyre :-)
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first ride! ... bit of a shake down, problems found include head bearings need tightening ... understandable as things settle down.
rear brake lever fouling on original lever pivot post. first time i have had to remove original equipment from a frame.. not ideal, cut post off, masked off, undercoat, paint and laquer. bit of a sod to start, this due to a way out of adjustment decompressor cable. brakes are fantastic , well worth the effort of new seals etc. bit fed up with my metal bashers, been waiting for ages for a s/s chain guard, i did check today to see if lack of a chain guard would be an mot fail ... it's not, but will be an advisory not something i want but hey ho.
plug/filters & oil change tomorrow then i can fit a magnetic drain plug. install decals and heel plates .... another metal basher work in progress. really pleased with the forks new seals & bushes &10 grade oil seems about right, but i will soften the back end a notch on the koni's. another week (metal basher permitting) should see the job done.
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Love the colour(s) Steve, riding position a bit extreme for my old bones, which is why I'm altering my SRX (see project for slow progress). It will be great to have 2 SRXs on the stand in October. Well done lad!
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Cracking lookin job there bor!
I too like the colour scheme, info please.
Like Ian, not too sure if my thumbs would cope with the clip-ons for very long. My swan-neck clips-ons on the Duke are comfy, but after about 150 miles the thumbs get a bit achey and stay that way for longer than they used to. I probably could do with them having an extra 2" inches of rise on them.
Sorry that I have no use for the 120-80 x 17. Sally has the 100-80 x 17 in the front and a 120-80 x 18 on the rear and the Mono uses a 110-80 x 17 front, with a 140-80 x 17 on the rear.
The Crane rearset brake lever on Sally has an extra bend in the rear brake lever to by-pass the pivot, rather than taking the grinder to the pivot. However, the Ducati has had the pivot and the cable outer/stoploight switch bracket removed to prevent fouling with the rearset brake pedal. There was/is an alternative set-up that requires a link rod between a new machine lever and revised brake pedal. But being a cheapskate, a homemade pedal and the original cable with a revised cable outer bracket suffice.
Hope the MoT goes OK, and the tester doesn't get picky. Mine can be picky, but is very clear "Why?" and allows me time to sort it without extra charges and does the test while I wait; rather than having to book it in and leave the machine to be assessed at their convenience, so that involves multiple trips and alternative transport. ::)
Cauli's up to 2.5Kg or 5.5lbs now ;D a bit short of the 27.5Kg world record by some boy from Nottinghamshire, I think.
Good health, Bill
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aye Bill, well, all ready for the MOT, a few concessions made for legal reasons ;-), original plastic chain guard fitted and correct sized number plate on with a proper job reflector. popped in to see the metal basher yesterday, he had the heel plates done and was in the process of making the rear axle alignment plates ... but had a feeble excuse about s/s sheet grade being hard to get as the reason that it's over 2 months since i ordered the chain guard.
onwards and upwards
oh, i have worked out, that if i need to reinstate the original brake lever i can drill & tap the stump then get my engineer pal to knock me up a shouldered bolt.
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Aye Steve,
I replaced the last post, with this request please for the paint colour info that you have used on the bodywork. It appears that you have used the Yamaha frame colour that I sent details of, is that correct?
As for stainless steel being "hard to get", maybe it's the price that is making him hold off? I know that you are not doing this yourself, but I have found that my local blacksmith has offcuts that have already been paid for, by the job they were purchased for and can be acquired reasonably for cash; or my local scrap yard often has skips full of catering worktops from kitchen refurbishments. Finally, a washing machine, either clothes or dishes, have nice stainless steel drums and the base when cut out makes a good cowl for the chimney or small sheet items! ;)
Thank you, Bill
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thanks Bill, sorted.
final update. #10 passed it's first MOT (since 2015) with no advisories. but.... (note to Ian) he was very sniffy about the LED headlight, he'd had quite a few in before and failed most of them because there was no beam regulation. however, mine was fine ( i sensed he was a trifle disappointed :-) ). wasn't too chuffed with the clipons because it tilted the brake master cylinder and the fluid level showed below the 'low' line even though there was plenty of fluid in there, so i adjusted the lever assy up a bit and solved that problem. with the rear wheel off the ground, he detected 3 high spots on the disc, and said it would be a fail if it showed up on the brake test ... but it didn't, brake test perfect on front & back.he then decided that the crappy plastic chain guard was touching the chain, that would be an advisory had i not tapped it with my boot ;-). he then figured the chain tension adjusters were not correct and should be tighter (i always slacken mine off a quarter turn once the wheel is bolted up, a habit inherited from my dad), so he grudgingly let me use his 13mm spanner to tighten them up. ... and with that 40 mins after i arrived (and parting with 25 onecers) i was presented with the MOT. but dear reader, please note the electricery that brings you port & starboard leds, a special feature for thos of a naval bent (& lets face it, most navy types are bent ;-) ) ....
(a prize for the first to spot the deliberate mistake)
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Port and starbord lights are arse about face bor, and they let you loose on them Broads! ::) As for Naval types being "bent", I have no idea what you could possibly be implying? :-X
Good to read that #10 passed MoT, albeit grudgingly.
I had the chain tension problem, with my tester, but demonstrated that once loaded the chain is within the manufacturers specified limits; never questioned since. Sometimes advises on front wheel bearings, but I have taken the bare wheel along to demonstrate that they weren't a problem. Paper work amended. ;) Also taken the wheel along when they were a bit ropey and thanked him, as I couldn't feel it afore the test.
Thought the beam regulation was the two horizontal mounting bolts and the left-hand adjusting screw to throw light towards the kerb rather than into the eyes of oncoming vehicles. Have fitted same unit to Ducati 450 that is 40+ so no need for faffing about. I'll make sure it doesn't blind anybody on the dip, but woe betide any Chelsea Tractor lookalike, the main beam appears very healthy and everything is fed through a VW Beetle (T1) headlight relay, so no power loss through switch contacts.
I like the running light circle and if necessary will pair up the leads to produce the amber ring, rather than the white, so as to provide a contrast to all the other LED's running about these days.
Colours used on #10, please? Thank you.
Toodle pip, Bill
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he then figured the chain tension adjusters were not correct and should be tighter (i always slacken mine off a quarter turn once the wheel is bolted up, a habit inherited from my dad)
That's interesting Steve, why do that?
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hey Bill, i might try the amber side light myself. see pic for the paint colour/code
very soggy here today so up in workshop catching up on my second hobby ... stained glass work.
pip pip
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lost in the mists of time :-). i think it comes from when my dad had 2 or 3 prewar sunbeams, i spent most of my non skool time in the workshop either tinkering with stuff, or watching dad fettling. and i clearly remember him backing off the tensioners once the wheel had been locked in place, his reasoning was that there was no longer any reason for the tensioners to be tight once the adjustments were complete. funny how you remember things like that. i guess with the limited power output of even the 600 lion there was little chance of the back wheel being pulled out of alignment. with todays bike putting out HP in the high hundreds then maybe the tensioners should be kept tight.
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Yes, having once had a bike that didn't have any functioning adjusters (stripped by a previuos owner) the spindle definitely shifted. A bit like making sure you finish adjusting the primary chain by pushing the box forward otherwise it willl move backwards and make the primary overtight due to the differential forces between primary and secondary chain.
I suppose backing the adjusters off will show if the spindle does move as it will then butt up against them. A bit like leaving the nut off the tyre valve so you can see if the tyre / tube has crept.
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(i always slacken mine off a quarter turn once the wheel is bolted up, a habit inherited from my dad)
See, I always back mine off a flat, kick the rear wheel towards the swingarm spindle then tighten the rear wheel spindle, so that the chain doesn't overtighten during that final operation and then check it again.
Just adjusting the chain and then tightening the rear spindle often used to result in an overtight chain, in my experience.
The BROS, with it's single sided swingarm and eccentric adjuster can be a real bar steward, as the mearest tweak can turn a slightly too slack chain into a bowstring, if you are not very careful! :(
"Oh well, off to adjust my twanger", Bungle said to Zippie! ;)
Cheers, Bill
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well, here we are, #10 has been legal and roadworthy for 3 weeks and now has 300 miles on the clock. my observations are ....
1. not sure if it's me but does the 17" front wheel improve handling? this bike seems so much easier to flick through the bendy country roads.
2. this is the 2nd 400 i've had (for any length of time) and i find it a gentler better behaved bike, first time i have used avon tyres, would they make a significant difference compared to bridgestones?.
3. #1 is (because of my fettling) a bit 'twitchy' a bit raucous' , a bit highly strung... i only realise this having put a few miles on #10. a stage 2 head, yoshi cam, max rebore with high comp (10.5 - 1) piston, twin 33 dellorto's. handbuilt pipes & 'silencer' all add up to a younger mans bike maybe?
4. definite improvement in fuel economy over #1. the LED lights though not necessarily 'original' are a huge improvement and a far less drain on the battery with better light output.
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Mornin bor, good when a plan comes together. ;D
My plan hasn't and is goin to result in a bigger hool in the wallet.
In spite o a new cable and "EasyPull", the clutch still wants to drag and I spect that the wear in the clutch hub grooves are impeding the backard and forards movement of the steel plates taking the drive to the sprocket. New clutch hubs aren't about, unless you av £360+VAT for the 450 competition version that is longer than standard and consequently requires the NOVA extended clutch basket to match, even bigger black hool! Still this hub has done ~90,000 miles. ::)
Off to trawl Fleabay etc!
Two thunderstorms yesterday, soo watering not a problem, just newts and a toadling tryin to get into the house.
Also, planning permission applied for a 49.9 Megawatt solar panel power station in adjacent fields! :o Fortunately, most of it'll be screened from our view, but Kat is "concerned", I'm more les affaires. You got any near you in the sunny hoom county?
Good health, Bill
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What is Kat concerned about?
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hey Bill, sorry to hear about the clutch problems... can't the 'grooves' be smoothed out so to speak ? i know i've done it on the clutch basket before now ,
been fine and dry here up 'til about an hour ago, now i can hear a storm approaching... need the rain. runner beans are going bonkers!, last week they looked like they'd never get going, today i picked 5LB of the bloody things and getting too big for her indoors, personally i like them when they get a bit 'beefy'. if this storm passes us by , as it looks like it will i'll have to get the dribble pipes going for the leeks.
well, as you know i made my own wind generator which is moderately successful, in tandem with a couple of solar panels it powers my workshop ... will even run the arc welder on a good day. neighbours have a proper jobbie, 30kw in their paddock, only ever hear it if we have very high winds when it feathers itself to avoid over power/voltage. mine has a hinged tail which takes the blades out of the wind at high wind speeds.
you may (or may not) know, but for a while Swaffham had the 2 largest wind turbunes in the country, put up by Dale Vince of Ecotricity. (he's a bloody nice bloke and a hero of mine .. ex hippy eco warrior, clever and forward thinking) these caused some concern when they went up in the late 90's .... here's the entry in the EDP. ....
'Built in 1999, the Green Britain Centre's wind turbine was the United Kingdom's first megawatt-class windmill'
some amusing letters in the EDP, and radio phone ins, one comes to mind from a dear owd mawther ....
''hint we gort enuf wind in norfolk without them blummin gret fans agoin round?''
the first one that went up has a viewing platform and access to the generator, so yours truly was one of the first to get up there, fascinating, and great views to boston in the west and happisburgh lighthouse in the east.
Kat doesn't need to worry about the noise, the modern ones have very sophisticated blade design both to maximise efficiency and minimise noise (i think the one influences the other)
an enterprising fella like yerself may even find ways to maybe put a few windings round a bit of underground megawatt cable ... (contact me for details of diameter of laquered copper wire required and number of turns ... you will need to furnish me with your average 24hr consumption )
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Further to the solar panel power station (N.B. no turbines!), whilst having a jaw with our neighbour, it transpires that it is intended that sheep will quietly graze around and beneath the solar panels, of which there will be 300 in the array and being 3m in height above ground level, at their highest (northern side).
Also, fellow Ducati single owners have suggested that whilst the "EasyPull" may do that, it also reduces the length of travel of the clutch accentuating arm due to the distance of the throw of the lever, within the "EasyPull" case. So, having listened to all 3 MGP races today, I am now off out to the workshop for some theraputic cable making.
Good health, Bill
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ahh, sorry Bill, i misread your missive, solar panels .... not as intrusive as turbines for sure ... we have quite a few 'farms' round here (you may have noticed it's a bit flat round this way ;-) ) whilst the landowners are keen to point out that 'the land can still be used for grazing so it's a win win' the truth of the matter appears to be that the grass & meadowmix is very slow growing due to light levels at ground zero.
and being the driest area of the country doesn't help, and when we do get rain the runoff from each row of panels forms rivulets which tend to run off the land rather than soak in. but yes, sheep are grazing under them but not in the numbers envisaged. on the plus side there is a guy local to me who is buying up solar panels from 'farms' that are renewing/replacing them a couple of reasons they are doing this, 1) the older panels are polycrystalline and not as efficient also output degrades over time quite markedly and 2) new monocrystalline panels have nearly twice the output for a given size and a shallow linear degradation in output. so, i have picked up 4 3 year old mono panels from him at 60 quid a pop, which provide my workshop with a nice 1kw into my battery bank. if i wasn't running storage heaters in the house i'd seriously consider going 'off grid'.
#10 still waiting for chain guard, early days i know, only been 3 months >:( . would welcome your thoughts on an oil cooler for #10 as the bona fide one i have is decidedly tatty ...
pip pip
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took my old s/s chain guard to the guys who did #1's exhaust system way back when, 3 weeks later i have 2 nice new s/s guards, fitted perfectly, just the oil cooler to get sorted now.
had a tinker with the front wheel/brake assembly, think i've cracked it, bit of brake fade when braking down hard from 80mph, but i think it'll improve as it 'beds in' ....
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Now there's agricultural, Norfolk and downright dangerous! ::)
Maybe andy230 should av consulted yew when doing thaat wheel conversion on his euphamistic "Norton" thingy! Them nippers look bu**ered fir anythin else now, less yew looking for a pair o wasp nippers round them hives o yurs! ;)
You keep a troshin, Bill
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#10 still waiting for chain guard, early days i know, only been 3 months >:( . would welcome your thoughts on an oil cooler for #10 as the bona fide one i have is decidedly tatty ...
pip pip
Hi Steve have you decided what to do about the oil cooler? If you look at the genuine Yamaha one there is a lug either side that is drilled and will take an M5 tap. I can supply you with a piece of stainless mesh to bend as necessary and if you paint everything satin black then noone will see how good or bad .....just an idea to save a bit of wonga
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hi Ian, thanks for the info, i have several srx coolers, and also an XT one, same element different pipework.
i have the original from #1, but its a tad tatty, your idea of a 'tidy up & hide it' plate appeals, what i'd like to do then is replace the equally tatty pipes with some nice s/s braided hoses, no idea where i'd source those ... i tried our local pertek workshop .... didn't seem very interested, when he mentioned a price i wasn't very interested then.
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Any use?
Bikersdirect_oil_coolers_lines (https://www.bikersdirect.co.uk/motorcycle-scooter-parts-accessories/engine-cooling/oil-coolers-lines/)
Good elf, Bill
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Bill, thanks for the link. had a look, LOADS of stuff, will peruse properly tonight. went to local hydraulic engineering Co just now, very positive, he can sort me out with s/s braided hoses married up to the existing ends, ready thursday, £60 ... so thats the last job ticked off.
off to the lake district for 10 days on Friday... bound to be wet, but we travel prepared. not taking the caravan this time, nice little cottage in the middle of nowhere, just south of penrith.
all i need now is a cheap, pack up small tent, couple of small gas cans for my tiny stove, some camping rations and i'm ready for the stafford weekend.
pip pip
oh, and look what the kind man at the hydraulic place GAVE me ... correct unions at the engine end, just need cutting & crimping to the cooler. he's got a box of several hundred as a job lot ... something for me to play with one evening, might use them on #1 ...
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The hoses look remarkably like plumbing tap connection hoses. 1/2inch female thread at one end, then a 15mm push fit spigot at t’other end. You may be able to fill the kettle up and make ya self a brew whilst literally being on the move 😉??
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yes, i have used similar at home diy :D. should be ok, as long as they are not really old ones which weren't too clever with hot liquids.
worth a try
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Hi Steve
May I ask whether yours is the SRX restoration mentioned in the VJMC news letter under Section News for the Heart of England section report?
Itsme
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hi, i don't think so, i can't actually see the article you refer to, maybe because i'm not a member, can only see newsletters from early in the year. if #10 were to appear in the VJMC then it would most likely be in the 'norfolk' section.
i'd be interested to read it though if you have a link
cheers
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Hi Steve
That's a real coincidence then! The article is in Tansha which is the VJMC magazine (I am a member). If you want to PM me an address I will happily post it to you as now I've read it it will just go in the recycle.
Ian
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OK. having completed a 380 mile round trip to stafford over the weekend. in basically 4 seasons of weather/road conditions i think it's fair to say #10 has done itself proud.
i had several unknowns going into the weekend, first time i have used Avons on an srx, good in wet & dry well pleased. i was also in the dark (ha ha) as to how the LED headlamp would perform, it was great on both dip & main.
also very thankful that the 'little' 400 is miserly with it's fuel consumption, as i missed the fuel stop i had thought would be about right and had to motor on for another 50 miles before i could fill up, pretty sure we were on fumes (no, i'm not sure if i have the reserve & main pipes round the right way.. plonker) .
one thing i noticed whilst stopped at the M6 toll area was the oil temp was at 100, on a cold evening and with the newly fitted cooler, but as it had been ticking over for 10 mins whilst i changed my gloves, stowed away credit card etc. i put it down to that. i checked the oil this morning and f**k all on the dipstick!! torch out and peered in ... there was oil but just off the end of the dip stick. i don't think any damage has been done, the engine is still very quiet, and on a little bimble this morning wasn't (visibly) burning oil though the exhaust exit is pretty sooty.
anyway, as you may recall i have done absolutely nothing to the engine apart from fresh oil, filter and iridium plug. & washed the airfilter. engine work is scheduled for the winter as i'm planning to paint it black/polish. so it'll be head off, pot off and lets see what's there.
end of thread
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Glad you got home ok Steve. It was good to have an interesting natter over the weekend about all and sundry. No10 earned its corn. Glad the headlight was good. I haven't had chance to test mine out.
Pity about the oil "consumption" but at least no real damage done hopefully. SRXs are renowned for being awkward to check oil level as you are more than well aware. Let me know how you get on when you disassemble. Where do you get your head gaskets from for the 400?
I'm hoping to replace the twin carbs on mine with a single mikuni over the winter but I forgot to bring it up at the show.
Anyway till the next show ....
Kindest regards
Ian
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hi Ian, i've never had to rebuild a 400, so it's unknown territory for me with regard to parts like gaskets, pistons/rings (possibly), so it'll be an interesting chat with Phil my spares guru ;D .
as i mentioned, i am picking up a quantity of 400 parts next week, so will have a chat with the seller, as he rebuilt a 400 for his son.
pity slipstream no longer exist as they did a lot of 400 work.
we did chat about a single carb conversion, and using a grizzly manifold... i think Bill even found a part number ... if not he will as soon as he reads this ;D
cheers
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;)
You said! Part Number: 4WV-13586-01-00
2023-10-19_eBay_ad_Yamaha_Grizzly_inlet_manifold (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334424575061)
Good health, Bill
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Told you Ian! ... that Bill fella''s on the ball, you only have to mention his name and he gets online and trawls the far reaches of the internet, thanks Bill. ;D
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A bin keepin an eye on the market for a couple o weeks now bor! ;)
Bit drafty at present! Trees a comin over and rain continus, like someone's pebble dashin the window! Hatches secured, exit and entry by the leeward door only and birds in reverse. :o
Supposed to be a final meet up for the Norton OC on Sunday, at which a Ducati may turn up! We'll see. ;)
Good health and yew keep a troshin, Bill
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aye Bill, hope you don't get blown away or flooded ... hope weather improves for OC trip
pip pip